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Guess what Rick is up to today


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#1 RickR

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 06:04 PM

Hints

  • I have the day off work and a space heater going in the garage.
  • Greenween needs a new joystick

 

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#2 Rowsdower70

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 06:10 PM

Rebuilding some 5200 sticks eh?   A noble cause.


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"For you - Rowsdower from the 70 - have been appointed Omnivisioner of the Game Grid."  ~ Atari Adventure Square


#3 RickR

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 06:13 PM

I've never done more than 1 at a time.  This should be interesting.  I'll do it like an assembly line.  Clean and wash is 1st step. 


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#4 kamakazi20012

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 07:16 PM

If you have some vice grips you can pull that handle off and get under those moving plates.  Use the grips on the white piece and then twist to remove the handle.  Also...there are some slight variants with the joystick molds depending on where they were made.  If you find that a fire button retainer is fitting a bit too snug try flipping it or try another one.  Some of the molds for those make those thicker than others I've discovered.  I could rebuild those all day long.  I actually enjoy working on them.


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#5 greenween

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 07:46 PM

That's awesome Rick! My 5200 is a pretty sad sight, just sitting there with no controller. :(


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 "Better to be king for a night than schmuck for a lifetime."


#6 RickR

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 07:59 PM

That's awesome Rick! My 5200 is a pretty sad sight, just sitting there with no controller. :(

Well that just ain't right.  I'll be testing these out tomorrow after they are rebuilt. 


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#7 chas10e

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 09:49 PM

If you have some vice grips you can pull that handle off and get under those moving plates.  Use the grips on the white piece and then twist to remove the handle.  Also...there are some slight variants with the joystick molds depending on where they were made.  If you find that a fire button retainer is fitting a bit too snug try flipping it or try another one.  Some of the molds for those make those thicker than others I've discovered.  I could rebuild those all day long.  I actually enjoy working on them.

 

http://atariage.com/...ller/?p=3208562

 

 

The service manual shows a tool made of a flat piece of metal with a 90' bend and a groove cut out of the end. Easy to make with a vise and hacksaw. You do have to use a bit of force but do it gradually. You will feel it starting to give.

Make the bend end long enough for the bend to rest on the outer edge just past the ring for least amount of damage.

 

sml_gallery_7415_1341_73135.png
 I think some hair dryer heat & patience helps as well

Edited by chas10e, 26 December 2016 - 09:51 PM.


#8 RickR

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 09:56 PM

Thank you guys, but I have no need to pull the handle off.  The boot and all other parts are in perfect condition on all 4 of these.  It is my belief they just need a really good cleaning and the foil dots.  The flex circuits all look really good, although I do have two brand new ones in reserve.  Once the glue dries, I'll put them back together and test. 

 

A couple of these have different side buttons...they have three tiny dots on the back instead of one big one (per button).  I wonder which design is newer (and potentially better)? 


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#9 chas10e

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 10:33 PM

I'm going to guess the large single was the latest revision 'cause of the stock# is same as the 3-dot version but with the additional "L" ... it would seem when they were re-engennerring the things they probably discovered it wasn't a main point of failure but worth a try

 

it would be interesting to hear about the things these guys tried til they got to the rev.9 flex circuit 

 

http://www.best-elec...2_j.htm#5200Dia

 

 

CO20501 / CO18127 CX52 Triple Conductive carbon Dots Top and Three Dots Bottom Fire button $2.50 ea. (2 fire buttons per CX52 Joystick controller)

CO20501-L CX52  Large (3/16 Dia.) Single Conductive carbon Dot Top and Bottom Fire button, one large dot top and one large dot bottom fire button $2.50 ea.  (Limited supply)


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#10 RickR

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 10:56 PM

I'm going to guess the large single was the latest revision 'cause of the stock# is same as the 3-dot version but with the additional "L" ... it would seem when they were re-engennerring the things they probably discovered it wasn't a main point of failure but worth a try

 

it would be interesting to hear about the things these guys tried til they got to the rev.9 flex circuit 

 

http://www.best-elec...2_j.htm#5200Dia

I've seen 3 revisions now of the fire buttons...one small dot, three small dots, and one large dot.  Given the info you just provided, I'll bet they go in that order. 


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#11 Atari Creep

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 11:10 PM

I love this stuff. Its like therapy. 


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Don't just watch TV, PLAY IT!


#12 kamakazi20012

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Posted 27 December 2016 - 03:48 AM

I've seen three different region markings on my controllers on the bottom shell.  One is USA, one is Mexico, and another one is unmarked.  I have those three-dot fire buttons as well but those don't seem to perform well with any revision flex circuit I have...and I have at least three which I am using a white Rev. 9 flex now.  I've went so far as to take apart the POTs and clean the wafer inside to remove residue.  On some I've found where the brush has dug a groove.  

 

If you can find them, and they feel comfortable, I would recommend the fire buttons that appear more red and mushy.  Those are the ones I seem to have the best response with.  And I have not done the foil trick on mine.  I don't know if I have the large dot fire buttons or not.  I've never noticed.  I'll have to look.  I really need to get brand new POTs for my controllers.  All of them.  And cords too.  Mine are getting brittle.  

 

Can't wait to see how these turn out, RickR!  Definitely keep us posted.


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#13 RickR

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Posted 27 December 2016 - 08:39 PM

All 4 are now back together.  3 of them work perfectly so far.  Start, pause, reset, bottom fire (both sides), * and # all work.

 

The 4th has an issue I've never seen before.  3, 6, 9, and # don't work!

 

What games do  you all know of that would test the top fire button?



#14 jmjustin6

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Posted 27 December 2016 - 09:34 PM

I think xevious uses the upper fire button

#15 RickR

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 12:00 AM

I just read that "Defender" is the best test game.  Lower buttons = laser.  Upper buttons = smart bomb.  Any keypad key = Hyperspace.  So I'm going to go find my Defender cart.  Hang in there Greenween!



#16 RickR

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 12:48 AM

GOOD NEWS!  All 4 controllers are now fully functional.  Defender is indeed a good test cart. 

 

These 4 are in really nice condition and they feel/work great.  I have one going to GW, one for myself...that leaves 2 for trade/sale.  Hit me up if you need one.

 

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#17 greenween

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 09:03 PM

VERY excited!!! Thanks mang!


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 "Better to be king for a night than schmuck for a lifetime."


#18 greenween

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Posted 04 January 2017 - 06:49 PM

Great job Rick!! I've never used a 5200 controller that worked this well! Thank you!!


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 "Better to be king for a night than schmuck for a lifetime."


#19 MaximumRD

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Posted 04 January 2017 - 07:25 PM

GOOD NEWS!  All 4 controllers are now fully functional.  Defender is indeed a good test cart. 

 

These 4 are in really nice condition and they feel/work great.  I have one going to GW, one for myself...that leaves 2 for trade/sale.  Hit me up if you need one.

Damn CONGRATULATIONS on getting them all restored! I have a single good controller because I bought it refurbished from BEST BUY but very cool you did this yourself!  :spot:  :beer:  :thumb:

 

lNEg8.gif


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#20 greenween

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Posted 05 January 2017 - 12:19 AM

Rick is the maestro!


 "Better to be king for a night than schmuck for a lifetime."





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