Cross posted from Atariage for any hardware experts here
So I'm worried I destroyed this board. I have to desolder the sockets for all 3 of the main IC's since the sockets broke off trying to remove the chips with a chip puller. I use my iron and desoldering braid but I may have damaged the board in the process. I still can't get some of the legs out even though the solder is gone from each hole. I hope I didn't but fear I did. Break it to me gently.
My concern with the third pic is I stupidly used a screwdriver to pry up the chip when I originally couldn't find my chip puller and scratched some traces
Ouch, the poor board! Don't worry though, nothing a little TLC won't take care of.
A few comments:
1) Despite the scratches on the soldermask I think the traces beneath are still intact, although it's hard to tell with some of the light glare. Do a continuity test to make sure. If you're feeling a bit brave there are compounds you can get for filling in soldermask pretty cheaply.
2) Do you have a temperature control on your soldering iron? A lot of the grunginess looks like burning from excess heat, possibly from the iron being applied for too long. Aside from the aesthetics this can be a bit of a concern because too much heat will remove the solder pads from the board, which is a very tricky thing to repair. Make sure you're using a solder tip which you're comfortable controlling the amount of heat transfer so you're not having to apply it for too long. On these older boards the solder alloy has a lower melting point than modern solder (more lead ) so a soft touch is all you need.
3) When you remount the chips use a socket mount instead. That way if you do make a mistake you you're only risking a cheap 50c part and make repairs down the line easier when you need to swap ICs in and out.
4) You should probably clean those pads with a touch of alcohol, to get some of the burn smear off, and then re-tin each pad (make sure you're using flux!) before attempting to solder onto them again. Also, a touch of flux on your solder braid will work wonders too.
5) Regarding the holes with legs still stuck: there's still solder inside the hole which is just enough to keep it stuck. Don't force it! Turn the board on its side, apply heat gently from one side and just push through something like a resistor leg from the other side to eject the fragment.
6) As I think about the last point it also occurs that you may not have good lighting and magnification available? Both will save you a lot of hassle as you'll see things you wouldn't otherwise.
Edited by dgrubb, 12 February 2018 - 11:48 AM.