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CrossBow

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Everything posted by CrossBow

  1. I do too but I've had issues with mine and had to take it all apart tonight to fix the down control that stopped working due to the down trigger wire coming loose. I went ahead and redid most of the solder joints making sure the wire went through the holes on the solder tabs for extra mechanical strength and reversed the trigger wires on the buttons so those were in right order now. Added some shrink tubing to the resistors too for preventive measures. If you didn't look in the pic, the boss post on both top and bottom halves was broken off because there wasn't room for them with the side button places where it is. That could have been done better because I only have 3 screws able to hold my controller together and really if that button had just been placed about a centimeter towards the front of the controller, there wouldn't have been a need to cut that post. The button still wouldn't have sat flush with the sides due to how the case is molded but it would have been more secure overall. Still I scored my highest on commando when using it yesterday and it does respond and work really well otherwise. Does make more a bit more cautious on spending that kind of money again in the future for a controller though. But I've made it so it should last me a long while now.
  2. Well perhaps when you are ready for this, the other new options teased by BennVenn electronics will be available as well. No real details other than he will be releasing it soon for both Lynx and Game Gears and supposed it costs 1/2 the price of the McWill kit. But again no other details other than words.
  3. I searched and didn't see this mentioned here yet so thought I would toss this out there... Curt Vendel is almost done with the XM modules and slated to be shipping them soon. In the meantime he has also created some new arcade style controllers for the 7800 and 2600. He started offering these around the middle of this past December. I ordered one of these and thought I would share my thoughts and provide some pics for others to see and get an idea about them. They come in both a left handed or right handed configuration on the joystick placement. I'm a right handed person, however, I've always been used to arcade style controllers and thus I ordered the left handed version controller. In fact, the exact left handed controller that was sent to me is the one that is shown in the pic of both controller types that curt posted on the AA forums. Control wise it feels really good and everything responded exactly as I needed it to. It is a bit more clicky than I would like in that it is loud when using it. Same for the buttons and I've been toying with the idea of perhaps putting leaf switch versions into mine. Speaking of the buttons, they feel nice but are reversed on mine. That is when using the 7800 diagnostic Utility in the Joystick test, Button 1 on the left is actually button 2 on my controller and vice versa. So it could be awkward to use if you are used to the buttons being mapped differently. I might change these at a later time to match what I'm more used to. The paddle controller works well or at least it did for the game of Steeplechase I was testing it with. On mine the On position is actually 7800 controller mode and the off position is Paddle mode. But I did find it odd that when using the Joystick test in the Diag utility, that the paddle has ZERO response on the other inputs variables and I'm used to see number values move across when using standard paddles in the ports for testing before. But the paddle does indeed work. Also an odd quirk to be aware of if you should you get one of these, is that on mine at least, it doesn't matter which position the switch is in, but if you move the paddle to the far right clockwise, it will always activate button 2. So in the game Commando for instance, if I had the paddle all the way to the right, then I would be tossing grenades constantly one after the other until they were depleted. So if you find odd button 2 behavior, you might check that you haven't moved the paddle knob all the way clockwise. I've included some pics of my controller in this post and of the inside so those asking about the circuit on how the switch controls the paddle lines..etc could have a better idea on how that is being done. Here is the original forum link over at AA regarding when these were announced and additional details from Curt about them: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/285914-new-desktop-arcade-controllers/page-1#entry4175100
  4. Shoot me a PM if you want or need more information.
  5. I can, but it isn't cheap. The kits are $120 + shipping alone and then I always advise that the power components and caps be replaced as well. As such there is quite a bit of labor involved so yeah..not cheap. If you have the kit already then naturally that takes a chunk off the costs overall, but still a pricey upgrade to have done.
  6. That is surprising because I just put a McWill LCD mod into an AA members Lynx like 2 months ago and they needed a replacement flex for their Lynx II as I noticed the power on/off wasn't working very well and once they received it back they stated other buttons started to act up as well. Point is, they were able to get the flex circuit for their Lynx II so did everyone suddenly up and buy them out in the past two months?
  7. ITC # 55 is now released. In this short video I show you my collection of unique Music albums for the Sega Genesis that have been released over the past couple of years. These albums aren't normal albums in that they are on actual cartridges or in the case of one of them on Sega CD. As such they are designed to be listened to on the actual Sega Genesis or Megadrive itself. There is some amazing sounding music on these cartridges and really shows what the original synthesis chip on the Genesis was capable of. This video doesn't show any specific music graphics from these carts but there are links throughout the video and in the video description where you can view the carts in action. While these aren't games, they are a very unique part of my collection and one I'm always happy to add too as more of these get released. Thanks for watching and enjoy! Got a new camera about a month back and this is the first video shot with it. Still doesn't handle low light as well as I had hoped but still has more clarity with less graininess compared to the older camera I was using. Done in 4K as well, though not sure how many videos I will actually shoot in that mode as my nearly decade old computer had a heck of a time with it during the editing process even with GPU acceleration enabled.
  8. ITC # 50 - has been replaced with a new video. This was done because I had comments (Mostly be email) advising me to remove the video since the original board featured in that earlier video was no longer available and had been replaced with a different board set. This new ITC # 50 episode details the installation of this new board now known as the M1 Mini Mega. It is both an amplifier and mixer replacement board for use with the model 1 Genesis systems va0 - va6 only. There are a lot of odd edits in this one and that is because originally it was shot with the intention of showing both the M1 Mini Mega installation alongside an M1 Double Mega board installation. However, the M1 DBL Mega isn't available currently and I already have a separate video detailing the installation of that board. Thanks for watching as always and comments are always welcome!
  9. Uploaded today is ITC#54 where you come with me to see the process of replacing the capacitors on a model 1 Sega Genesis. The video is sped up through most of it but was originally shot in real time so that you can get an idea on the amount of time involved with a project like this. Features a few midi tunes as captured from my Roland MT-200. So sit back, relax, and see what is takes to replace the capacitors in a classic console such as the Sega Genesis featured in this video:
  10. Well this will come as a shocker, but I honestly do not have any memory of Roadblasters in the arcades at the time. I do remember paperboy and Xenophobe and Rampage. And all of those were games that I had hoped would get 7800 releases back then. Xenophobe and Rampage were two games that made me want the 7800 to begin with. Where I'm going with this is that I never had heard of Fatal Run until much later when I picked up retro collecting again in the late 90s and early 2000s. In fact I was quite surprised but all the games that I never knew existed for the 7800 back then. Midnight Mutants, Fatal Run, Tower Roppler, Jinks...etc. They were all unknown to me and I do NOT recall seeing any of these later titles released in the stores. Then again, if they were released after '88 I likely didn't pay attention as I was pretty deep into the PC culture by then. But I do own Fatal Run, it isn't a game I pick up and play very often as I'd rather play Food Fight, Commando, Xenophobe or any of a bunch of other titles on the 7800 today. But I can see how with a little bit of work, Fatal Run could have been made into Roadblasters and I've certainly had a lot of fun with that game on my Lynx.
  11. Wanted to give some more thoughts on these controllers... I haven't tested both of my controllers...just the one I've actually take out of the box. I mentioned before about the keypad buttons sticking down? Thankfully that really hasn't been an issue in actual game play and I've found that those buttons are quite sensitive and do not require that hard a press to engage them. But one thing was bugging me at first and I'm glad a fix of sorts has been found. The issue was that I was playing Wolf3D (Jag version is my favorite version btw), and I was noticing that frequently when trying to turn left on the d-pad that I would actually move up and left. I found I had to press down on the bottom edge of the left d-pad side to make sure I only moved left and didn't move diagonally up/left. Well other buyers of the controller reported the same issue. Turns out the problem is that there is only a single center mount screw that holds the PCB in place. Because of this there is some play in the PCB allowing it to rotate up and down a tiny bit. If you have the d-pad side down too low, then it is easy to actually be hitting both the up and left contact pads on the pcb at the same time, hence the movement issues. The fix is to basically loose the center screw holding down the PCB, rotate the PCB just a few mils up on the d-pad side, wedge something between the PCB and the plastic that frames it, and then tighten the screw back down. It was mentioned to use a post-it-note folded up into a small square. I chose to use about 2cm from a cable tie I clipped off and fold that in half to wedge in there. It did indeed fix the issue. They could have avoided this by doing two things: - design the PCB with guide holes in it and plastic pegs molded into the top shell to align the pcb properly. You know like Nintendo and most other controller companies have been doing to ever now? - Make the contact pads on the pcb a bit smaller so that there is less risk of it happening in the first place. Still I've been enjoying the heck out of this controller as once I got that issue resolved it easily is the best controller I've used for playing games on my Jag.
  12. Been a while since I did a real video on my channel and that is simply because I've been busy with clients sending me their systems for modification and repairs. However, I decided to use that oppurtunity with a 7800 I was working on to come up with this short video regarding compatibility issues with some 2600 games on the 7800. Especially those 7800s made in the late 80s. ITC# 53 demonstrating some of the compatibility issues that are commonly known and one very simple and quick fix I tend to use to correct most of those issues in one go. Enjoy and thanks again for watching!
  13. Still available so here is a little bump for good measure. I realize this is a very niche item and not for everyone. But still it has a lot of capability and while everyone goes nuts for SC-55 Mk II modules etc. This is basically the same thing with a few more features to boot in its favor. I especially like the ability to record midi music as it plays through the module using its record mode and being able to save them in the exact way they were played through the module later to disk or flash drive.
  14. Received my NIB and protected game from Scott in the mail yesterday! Excellent communication, quick to ship..seems like a stellar guy and I hope to do more business with Scott in the future! Thanks!!
  15. * Forgot I had this posted here, but I recently sold this to a midi musician and wanted to update this listing to reflect that. * I also have this posted at AtariAge but didn't see the harm in offering this here as well... Available for sale is a MT-200 Sound Module, Sequencer, and Midi Jukebox that also happens to be great for use with old DOS games or for Midi listening in general. The MT-200 is a Sound Canvas and General Midi capable module and sequencer that contains the same sound samples as the SC-55 and includes all of the normal drum samples including those for the CM-32 module. This MT-200 is actually a spare as I use another one of these in my primary modern gaming PC and had been meaning to find this one a new home for some time now. Everything is working 100% on this module and it has had the following minor upgrades made to it: - Orignal 3.5" floppy drive has been replaced with a GoTek floppy emulator. This allows the use of a USB flash drive up to 32gb to be used (Although 4gb is all that you would ever actually use). The GoTek emulates an old floppy drive by using software to format the USB flash drive into 100 separate partitions of 1.44MB each. The GoTek has buttons on it to swap between the floppy partitions. Essentially a single 4gb or larger flash drive would likely contain all the storage a person would ever need for listening to their Midi file library or saving songs they compose using the MT-200 as a sequencer. The original floppy drive works and I will include it as well if the new owner should wish to take it back to stock. - Original battery has been removed and replaced with a battery holder and new battery to make battery replacement easier in the future. - Firmware has been updated to the latest known revision. I had the chips made up for me so I could put one into this one and have another on hand as a spare for my primary module. This updated firmware only works with 2MB fully populated MT-200s (This one is fully populated), and corrects several issues mainly dealing with hanging notes and speed anomalies on Midi input. It is great for use with old DOS games as a result. This MT-200 will come with a brand new PSB-120 genuine Roland switching power supply compatible with the MT-200 and many other sound modules devices. Also included is a 16gb USB flash drive that has been formatted for all 100 partitions to be ready to use. The first 4 partitions contain midi music already as examples and for listening to the abilities of what the module is able to really do, especially in GS mode. I will also include a DVD that contains the following within it: - MT-200 Video tutorials on the basic operation and diagnostics I made earlier this year. Pretty much all you would need to know to use it is in these videos - Additional Midi files for listening, editing, or whatever you wish. - Midiplay v5 both the 32 and 64bit versions for windows OSes. - Two different types of Floppy emulator software for use with the GoTek floppy emulator. The software contains the formatters and partition browsers to view and copy files to the multiple floppy partitions on the USB flash drive. Also included is a blank 1.44mb disk image file to quickly setup blank partitions - PDFs of the original two part owners manual. - Copy of the 2.01 firmware file in case a new rom should ever need be made. - Midi utilities of various things a person might want or need. Such as MT32 patch emulation, Midi type 1 to 0 and back converter, and even the RSC to MID converter. The MT-200 saves songs in RSC/RSD format so this last tool is a must for converting them into an easier to use format. I've attached quite a few pictures in this post showing the MT-200 from all angles as well as the interior shot of the battery holder and updated firmware chip installed. Physically the unit is in good shape with minor scuffs and scratches considering its likely had a long life. There is a section on the LCD bezel that looks to have lifted along the top, but aside from cosmetic it isn't an issue at all and was this way when I received it. To get an idea on what this module sounds like, I've made a 5min or so video demonstrating some snippets from a few songs. The last 4 songs were recorded by the module and saved to the USB flash drive in RSC format so you can hear exactly how DOS games like Doom and other General Midi and Sound Canvas games sound. The Monkey Island theme was played from the actual game with the MT-200 loaded up with the MT32 instrument patch I included in the Midi Utils. Not all MT-32 games will sound as good as this but most of them still sound better than Adlib/Soundblaster modes do. **NOTE that this does not include any midi or audio cables nor a Midi interface to connect it to your computer. I personally recommend the Roland UM oneMK 2 USB-Midi adapter but there are other options. Again, I'm happy to help with additional information should you need assistance. Feel free to hit me up with PMs on any questions you have. The price might seem a bit high, but the MT-200 is a very well featured device from the early 90s plus I've put a lot of time into this module and the package I've put together. So the first $150 gets it shipped to the lower 48 states. Elsewhere will require additional for shipping. Thank you for taking the time to read and look at this post.
  16. I also saw this at PRGE, but they weren't demoing it properly. The one being used at PRGE was stretched and didn't look very clear at all. I'm convinced they had it connected via composite to the HDTV on display as that is the only reason it could look fuzzy. Also the audio I could have sworn was in mono due to the ring pickup sound not swapping channels at the show. But in the above video review it is clearly in stereo and sounds pretty decent. So maybe the one at PRGE was an older pre-production unit or something?
  17. I believe the main issue with JPN games is just the difference in the pinouts and PCB boards that were used initially. But yes you can use any of the other regions just fine in most cases. Although there are a few games that were setup for 50hz PAL mode that will play too fast on the US versions. But I don't know which titles that would be. I do know the Sonic games work just fine as does Master of Darkness, but the pricing on these lately has started to climb into ranges I'm not okay with paying for just yet.
  18. Awesome! I was going to say that if it did end up being a dead RF modulator that I actually have an RF modulator for an SMS that I removed last month when modding a client's SMS for them. They specifically asked that I remove the RF modulator and put the region switch in the hole the RF modulator was so I wouldn't have to drill any holes in the case. Region switch was for Tim's RF add-in mod board. Which, is why the SMS was sent to me.
  19. What model component switcher is it? Is it powered? I don't have component on mine as it is strictly composite and s-video only. I'd like to get the s900 as that is everything the 700 is plus component as well I believe. There is also the s777 but it too is composite and s-video only, but it does a few more inputs and an output for nearly each input?! Not sure why unless that model was designed for use with early video walls and such. I've got an OSSC to mess with now and while the SNES, Saturn, and Genesis looked fantastic on it, I've got some off ghosting affects from the DC through VGA on it, almost like a voltage drop in the video signal. Still it looks great so I can more or less live it for now.
  20. I should also note...that getting the true FM upgrade board is the way to go for the best FM sound out of an SMS. I do wish it were stereo, but it is what it is. The MegaED X7 has a newer firmware release that adds FM sound support to the SMS games through a Genesis. But it doesn't sound nearly as good as the real deal. Still if you have an X7 it is a good way to go and again for the price of the FM board with shipping from AUS and the costs for the games that support it, it does start to justify the cost of the X7 MegaED cart?! LOL Oh... the SMS version of Rampage is pretty good and supports the FM board as well. Then you also have to pick up Golvelius and Wonder Boy Dragon's Trap if you can.
  21. If you don't have a composite av out cable for a model 1 Genesis/SMS then you can get them here pretty cheaply. I actually just purchased one of these cable last month and a new DIN connector so I could cut the original connector off and rewire it for use with my TI, Vic-20, and 800xl/130XE systems. https://console5.com/store/av-cable-for-genesis-1-sega-master-system-neo-geo-aes-sega.html On the sound upgrade, this will really depend on how much you actually plan to play the SMS. Remember that not all the SMS games have FM sound and some of the key titles had the FM removed when they were brought over stateside. I say this because the FM board from Tim plus the shipping will set you back quite a bit. But the FM board is crazy easy to install with the most difficult part being the installation of the 3-way toggle switch and where you want to put it. http://etim.net.au/smsfm/smsfm.html
  22. You can use a Genesis model 1 power supply on the master system. That is actually what I use with mine and have for many years. It provides more current than an SMS needs, but the polarity and voltage are correct so like all systems, the SMS will only draw however much current it actually needs. It also uses the exact same AV cable that a model 1 Genesis uses so you aren't just limited to the RF output. The SMS in fact nearly uses the same video encoder the Genesis uses. You can even use the same exact S-video amp circuit on the SMS. Just have to look at the video encoder and verify the pins you need to attach to.
  23. I do actually have an old JVC 26" that I will use sometimes to connect consoles to for color adjustments. It has both composite and s-video inputs on it so it works well for that. But I also have and prefer to use my small 9" PVM I picked up 2 years ago for $20. It too has composite and s-video inputs and given its much smaller size, it is better to use for such adjustements as well. But that JVC crt is always hooked up in the other room at the ready if needed... LOL.
  24. I prefer to use my AV modded consoles through my JVC JX-S700...LOL. It even gots a remote! http://www.us.jvc.com/archive/video/avselectors/jx_s700/ I paid like $30 shipped for it years ago off ebay but you would be lucky to get them at such a price these days.
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