CrossBow

And mine arrived yesterday!

 

 
I was messing around with it quite a bit last night (I should have been doing other stuff...but...ehh). And it isn't perfect by any means, but it is right up there with my Dragon Fly on what it can do currently and since it can play Rikki & Vikki with full audio, it does have the DF beat in that regard. But ONLY that regard.
Covox audio isn't working currently on the 7800GD and will have to be addressed in future FW updates. Some games have issues playing on the 7800GD, and the AV out is pretty picky on what will or won't work from it at the current time. There will be a hardware revision of the 7800GD to address the AV output stuff. Likely the next batch of them will have that in place.
 

There is another option to get them working again...that would cost less and you could do it yourself...
https://atarirepairparts.com/

And mine arrived yesterday!

 

 
I was messing around with it quite a bit last night (I should have been doing other stuff...but...ehh). And it isn't perfect by any means, but it is right up there with my Dragon Fly on what it can do currently and since it can play Rikki & Vikki with full audio, it does have the DF beat in that regard. But ONLY that regard.
Covox audio isn't working currently on the 7800GD and will have to be addressed in future FW updates. Some games have issues playing on the 7800GD, and the AV out is pretty picky on what will or won't work from it at the current time. There will be a hardware revision of the 7800GD to address the AV output stuff. Likely the next batch of them will have that in place.
 

And mine arrived yesterday!

 

 
I was messing around with it quite a bit last night (I should have been doing other stuff...but...ehh). And it isn't perfect by any means, but it is right up there with my Dragon Fly on what it can do currently and since it can play Rikki & Vikki with full audio, it does have the DF beat in that regard. But ONLY that regard.
Covox audio isn't working currently on the 7800GD and will have to be addressed in future FW updates. Some games have issues playing on the 7800GD, and the AV out is pretty picky on what will or won't work from it at the current time. There will be a hardware revision of the 7800GD to address the AV output stuff. Likely the next batch of them will have that in place.
 

I got to be really good at this game when I was younger and preferred to play my 7800 version over my step-bro's NES version. The elbow punch is the most powerful attack and using the enemy stance to your advantage is the key here. As you stated, the enemy has two states. They are either going after your and following the player on the same plane as you stated, or they are walking in your direction but on a different line of plane on the game screen. So what I did was move the controller up and down quickly to get the attacking enemy to switch to wonder mode and then come down and elbow punch them over and over. I also used the reverse jump kick but mostly once I got enemies locked in ontop of each other in a corners and such to wallop them. 
On the green Abobo's just before entering the final lair, I found a way to get them to come one at a time if you didn't go too far beyond the screen and then again using the elbow punch of them was key to taking them down quickly. I got to the point where I could pretty much beat the game anytime I played it only loosing 1 life. I think I was able to do it on a single life a few times even. 
I doubt I could now though as it has been 20+ years since I played this but I'm sure if I took some time it would all come back to me.
 

I got to be really good at this game when I was younger and preferred to play my 7800 version over my step-bro's NES version. The elbow punch is the most powerful attack and using the enemy stance to your advantage is the key here. As you stated, the enemy has two states. They are either going after your and following the player on the same plane as you stated, or they are walking in your direction but on a different line of plane on the game screen. So what I did was move the controller up and down quickly to get the attacking enemy to switch to wonder mode and then come down and elbow punch them over and over. I also used the reverse jump kick but mostly once I got enemies locked in ontop of each other in a corners and such to wallop them. 
On the green Abobo's just before entering the final lair, I found a way to get them to come one at a time if you didn't go too far beyond the screen and then again using the elbow punch of them was key to taking them down quickly. I got to the point where I could pretty much beat the game anytime I played it only loosing 1 life. I think I was able to do it on a single life a few times even. 
I doubt I could now though as it has been 20+ years since I played this but I'm sure if I took some time it would all come back to me.
 

Oh I wasn't disagreeing with you! I know it is there, but I was essentially out voted on the issue by the other testers. So yes it could matter on the revision of console, but then it seems odd that this is the first time I can recall something like this on a game acting that different between revisions. The two systems I tested it with was an A3 and A1 series consoles.
Same thing in regards to the elevator timings. I was still able to. and still able to get the elevators largely to always be in my favor once I get it locked in a few levels in. But apparently no one else was able to replicate that either?!
 

Oh I wasn't disagreeing with you! I know it is there, but I was essentially out voted on the issue by the other testers. So yes it could matter on the revision of console, but then it seems odd that this is the first time I can recall something like this on a game acting that different between revisions. The two systems I tested it with was an A3 and A1 series consoles.
Same thing in regards to the elevator timings. I was still able to. and still able to get the elevators largely to always be in my favor once I get it locked in a few levels in. But apparently no one else was able to replicate that either?!
 

Oh I wasn't disagreeing with you! I know it is there, but I was essentially out voted on the issue by the other testers. So yes it could matter on the revision of console, but then it seems odd that this is the first time I can recall something like this on a game acting that different between revisions. The two systems I tested it with was an A3 and A1 series consoles.
Same thing in regards to the elevator timings. I was still able to. and still able to get the elevators largely to always be in my favor once I get it locked in a few levels in. But apparently no one else was able to replicate that either?!
 

So I hinted about this in another thread elsewhere, but though it might be good to give it is own post.
So a new challenger has emerged online under the website AtariRepairParts.com and as the name implies they provide replacement parts for Atari stuff. However, as they are very very new, the parts available is basically limited to just a few things. But, perhaps the most interesting is their replacement mylar and membrane buttons for the standard OEM 5200 controller (CX-52). Similar to another well known vendor, AtariRepairParts has created their own mylar and button replacements that are also gold plated.
The main difference here is that they cost for a complete set is about 50% less of the other well known vendor. They also don't have any limits on the number of items you can order and have PayPal so payments are easy to make. 
I ordered two sets of these replacements for just under $50 shipped. That might seem like a lot for something so old, but again for the price of 2 sets to install into one controllers from AtariRepairParts compared to that same price for just a single controller from the other vendor, it is a good deal.
I received them in yesterday and only ordered them a few days prior, so they arrived very quickly! Here is my initial impressions of these new replacement rebuild kits..
First lets talk about how everything arrived. It was delivered in a bubble mailer using a section of card stock and envelope to protect and prevent bending of the mylar flex. The membrane buttons were just loose in the padded envelope but as this is all very light weight and small, I don't have any issues with this packing.
The first thing you notice is that the mylar is a very matte black finish in color overall. But you can still see the traces etc. Ever contact point on the flex is gold plated including the fingers that insert into the controller wire harness connector. Additionally, it could have been the way it looked, but I believe that section with the fingers is a tad longer than the stock mylar so they seat in further and more secure as a result. The mylar overall is also a little thicker than the stock mylar and more rigid as a result. But I don't find this to be a negative at all since it means it should be able to withstand the flexing and bending it has to go through much better over time. The mylar also has preaffixed adhesive pads so that it can attach to the keypad support plate, and each of the arms for the fire buttons on the mylar will attach to the vertical supports on the controller properly. In the past I've had to keep double sided tape on hand with replacements so this is a welcome thing to have! I do think another strip should be included for the top row buttons as it doesn't have one for that part. But if you consider the fact that the membrane buttons sit on top of that section, I guess it isn't as critical.
The membrane buttons appear to be new and look and feel like the originals. This is good and bad because a lot of folks don't like the mushy feel of the original buttons and these will retain that original feel. However, similar to the mylar, each contact on the membrane has a gold plated disc that is secured to the buttons. So gold on gold contact will minimize any corrosion over the years from occurring.
Installation is a breeze since everything is of the same size as original parts so it just all fits in place where it should. Even the small holes on the keypad to line it up on the support tray are present and in the correct location. So yeah provided you know how to take the original controller apart properly, installing a set of these should only take a few minutes time. 
I played a few games of The Last Starfighter to break it all in and I have to say that everything worked great! My only criticism is that the top row membrane buttons seem to sit a little lower than the originals and as a result I found them difficult to actually press and make contact. But they do work it just requires a little more direct pressing than I'm used to with my older buttons and foil taped contact pads hehe. Still, the quality of these replacement parts are very nice and I imagine the controller will not require much if any maintenance in the future since the only real failure point now would be the cabling or potentiometers inside the controller itself of which, there aren't any replacements for yet at this time.
AtariRepairParts.com
 

Exactly my though! for the time needed to do the cleaning and foil dot method, I think this is a better option because this only takes a few min to install and is likely to last for a very long time given everything is gold on gold contact, and the contact points themselves on these new mylars are much larger than Atari or the other Vendor's designs.
 

So I hinted about this in another thread elsewhere, but though it might be good to give it is own post.
So a new challenger has emerged online under the website AtariRepairParts.com and as the name implies they provide replacement parts for Atari stuff. However, as they are very very new, the parts available is basically limited to just a few things. But, perhaps the most interesting is their replacement mylar and membrane buttons for the standard OEM 5200 controller (CX-52). Similar to another well known vendor, AtariRepairParts has created their own mylar and button replacements that are also gold plated.
The main difference here is that they cost for a complete set is about 50% less of the other well known vendor. They also don't have any limits on the number of items you can order and have PayPal so payments are easy to make. 
I ordered two sets of these replacements for just under $50 shipped. That might seem like a lot for something so old, but again for the price of 2 sets to install into one controllers from AtariRepairParts compared to that same price for just a single controller from the other vendor, it is a good deal.
I received them in yesterday and only ordered them a few days prior, so they arrived very quickly! Here is my initial impressions of these new replacement rebuild kits..
First lets talk about how everything arrived. It was delivered in a bubble mailer using a section of card stock and envelope to protect and prevent bending of the mylar flex. The membrane buttons were just loose in the padded envelope but as this is all very light weight and small, I don't have any issues with this packing.
The first thing you notice is that the mylar is a very matte black finish in color overall. But you can still see the traces etc. Ever contact point on the flex is gold plated including the fingers that insert into the controller wire harness connector. Additionally, it could have been the way it looked, but I believe that section with the fingers is a tad longer than the stock mylar so they seat in further and more secure as a result. The mylar overall is also a little thicker than the stock mylar and more rigid as a result. But I don't find this to be a negative at all since it means it should be able to withstand the flexing and bending it has to go through much better over time. The mylar also has preaffixed adhesive pads so that it can attach to the keypad support plate, and each of the arms for the fire buttons on the mylar will attach to the vertical supports on the controller properly. In the past I've had to keep double sided tape on hand with replacements so this is a welcome thing to have! I do think another strip should be included for the top row buttons as it doesn't have one for that part. But if you consider the fact that the membrane buttons sit on top of that section, I guess it isn't as critical.
The membrane buttons appear to be new and look and feel like the originals. This is good and bad because a lot of folks don't like the mushy feel of the original buttons and these will retain that original feel. However, similar to the mylar, each contact on the membrane has a gold plated disc that is secured to the buttons. So gold on gold contact will minimize any corrosion over the years from occurring.
Installation is a breeze since everything is of the same size as original parts so it just all fits in place where it should. Even the small holes on the keypad to line it up on the support tray are present and in the correct location. So yeah provided you know how to take the original controller apart properly, installing a set of these should only take a few minutes time. 
I played a few games of The Last Starfighter to break it all in and I have to say that everything worked great! My only criticism is that the top row membrane buttons seem to sit a little lower than the originals and as a result I found them difficult to actually press and make contact. But they do work it just requires a little more direct pressing than I'm used to with my older buttons and foil taped contact pads hehe. Still, the quality of these replacement parts are very nice and I imagine the controller will not require much if any maintenance in the future since the only real failure point now would be the cabling or potentiometers inside the controller itself of which, there aren't any replacements for yet at this time.
AtariRepairParts.com
 

So I hinted about this in another thread elsewhere, but though it might be good to give it is own post.
So a new challenger has emerged online under the website AtariRepairParts.com and as the name implies they provide replacement parts for Atari stuff. However, as they are very very new, the parts available is basically limited to just a few things. But, perhaps the most interesting is their replacement mylar and membrane buttons for the standard OEM 5200 controller (CX-52). Similar to another well known vendor, AtariRepairParts has created their own mylar and button replacements that are also gold plated.
The main difference here is that they cost for a complete set is about 50% less of the other well known vendor. They also don't have any limits on the number of items you can order and have PayPal so payments are easy to make. 
I ordered two sets of these replacements for just under $50 shipped. That might seem like a lot for something so old, but again for the price of 2 sets to install into one controllers from AtariRepairParts compared to that same price for just a single controller from the other vendor, it is a good deal.
I received them in yesterday and only ordered them a few days prior, so they arrived very quickly! Here is my initial impressions of these new replacement rebuild kits..
First lets talk about how everything arrived. It was delivered in a bubble mailer using a section of card stock and envelope to protect and prevent bending of the mylar flex. The membrane buttons were just loose in the padded envelope but as this is all very light weight and small, I don't have any issues with this packing.
The first thing you notice is that the mylar is a very matte black finish in color overall. But you can still see the traces etc. Ever contact point on the flex is gold plated including the fingers that insert into the controller wire harness connector. Additionally, it could have been the way it looked, but I believe that section with the fingers is a tad longer than the stock mylar so they seat in further and more secure as a result. The mylar overall is also a little thicker than the stock mylar and more rigid as a result. But I don't find this to be a negative at all since it means it should be able to withstand the flexing and bending it has to go through much better over time. The mylar also has preaffixed adhesive pads so that it can attach to the keypad support plate, and each of the arms for the fire buttons on the mylar will attach to the vertical supports on the controller properly. In the past I've had to keep double sided tape on hand with replacements so this is a welcome thing to have! I do think another strip should be included for the top row buttons as it doesn't have one for that part. But if you consider the fact that the membrane buttons sit on top of that section, I guess it isn't as critical.
The membrane buttons appear to be new and look and feel like the originals. This is good and bad because a lot of folks don't like the mushy feel of the original buttons and these will retain that original feel. However, similar to the mylar, each contact on the membrane has a gold plated disc that is secured to the buttons. So gold on gold contact will minimize any corrosion over the years from occurring.
Installation is a breeze since everything is of the same size as original parts so it just all fits in place where it should. Even the small holes on the keypad to line it up on the support tray are present and in the correct location. So yeah provided you know how to take the original controller apart properly, installing a set of these should only take a few minutes time. 
I played a few games of The Last Starfighter to break it all in and I have to say that everything worked great! My only criticism is that the top row membrane buttons seem to sit a little lower than the originals and as a result I found them difficult to actually press and make contact. But they do work it just requires a little more direct pressing than I'm used to with my older buttons and foil taped contact pads hehe. Still, the quality of these replacement parts are very nice and I imagine the controller will not require much if any maintenance in the future since the only real failure point now would be the cabling or potentiometers inside the controller itself of which, there aren't any replacements for yet at this time.
AtariRepairParts.com
 

Exactly my though! for the time needed to do the cleaning and foil dot method, I think this is a better option because this only takes a few min to install and is likely to last for a very long time given everything is gold on gold contact, and the contact points themselves on these new mylars are much larger than Atari or the other Vendor's designs.
 

So I hinted about this in another thread elsewhere, but though it might be good to give it is own post.
So a new challenger has emerged online under the website AtariRepairParts.com and as the name implies they provide replacement parts for Atari stuff. However, as they are very very new, the parts available is basically limited to just a few things. But, perhaps the most interesting is their replacement mylar and membrane buttons for the standard OEM 5200 controller (CX-52). Similar to another well known vendor, AtariRepairParts has created their own mylar and button replacements that are also gold plated.
The main difference here is that they cost for a complete set is about 50% less of the other well known vendor. They also don't have any limits on the number of items you can order and have PayPal so payments are easy to make. 
I ordered two sets of these replacements for just under $50 shipped. That might seem like a lot for something so old, but again for the price of 2 sets to install into one controllers from AtariRepairParts compared to that same price for just a single controller from the other vendor, it is a good deal.
I received them in yesterday and only ordered them a few days prior, so they arrived very quickly! Here is my initial impressions of these new replacement rebuild kits..
First lets talk about how everything arrived. It was delivered in a bubble mailer using a section of card stock and envelope to protect and prevent bending of the mylar flex. The membrane buttons were just loose in the padded envelope but as this is all very light weight and small, I don't have any issues with this packing.
The first thing you notice is that the mylar is a very matte black finish in color overall. But you can still see the traces etc. Ever contact point on the flex is gold plated including the fingers that insert into the controller wire harness connector. Additionally, it could have been the way it looked, but I believe that section with the fingers is a tad longer than the stock mylar so they seat in further and more secure as a result. The mylar overall is also a little thicker than the stock mylar and more rigid as a result. But I don't find this to be a negative at all since it means it should be able to withstand the flexing and bending it has to go through much better over time. The mylar also has preaffixed adhesive pads so that it can attach to the keypad support plate, and each of the arms for the fire buttons on the mylar will attach to the vertical supports on the controller properly. In the past I've had to keep double sided tape on hand with replacements so this is a welcome thing to have! I do think another strip should be included for the top row buttons as it doesn't have one for that part. But if you consider the fact that the membrane buttons sit on top of that section, I guess it isn't as critical.
The membrane buttons appear to be new and look and feel like the originals. This is good and bad because a lot of folks don't like the mushy feel of the original buttons and these will retain that original feel. However, similar to the mylar, each contact on the membrane has a gold plated disc that is secured to the buttons. So gold on gold contact will minimize any corrosion over the years from occurring.
Installation is a breeze since everything is of the same size as original parts so it just all fits in place where it should. Even the small holes on the keypad to line it up on the support tray are present and in the correct location. So yeah provided you know how to take the original controller apart properly, installing a set of these should only take a few minutes time. 
I played a few games of The Last Starfighter to break it all in and I have to say that everything worked great! My only criticism is that the top row membrane buttons seem to sit a little lower than the originals and as a result I found them difficult to actually press and make contact. But they do work it just requires a little more direct pressing than I'm used to with my older buttons and foil taped contact pads hehe. Still, the quality of these replacement parts are very nice and I imagine the controller will not require much if any maintenance in the future since the only real failure point now would be the cabling or potentiometers inside the controller itself of which, there aren't any replacements for yet at this time.
AtariRepairParts.com
 

BallBlazer is best on the 7800 with the slightly increased color palette and especially much smoother overall game play speed! There is some improvement in the graphics on the 7800 version as well. Really noticed when you see the rotofoyls up close as they appear much more jagged and pixelated on the 5200 / 8-bit vs the 7800.
 

I brought this up a few times with Lewis during beta testing. Here is the odd thing. I was the only one of the testers to notice this slow down to any degree. There was much more of it and much worse in earlier builds. But yes it seems that once you have radios blinking away on all floors on a screen, that the system has trouble at that point. But again, it wasn't something that Lewis was able to replicate to the same degree I was showing. I even recorded screen footage of the plays where it would come up at 60fps and you could see the slowdown plain as day, but Lewis and the other testers couldn't replicate it or didn't notice it as they were playing on CRTs and I might have been the only one playing with AV upgrades etc in place. 
So this could be somewhat 7800 specific. We already know that in addition to the red-headed step child treatment is received under the Tramiel banner, that it also seemed very much to be a console that was pieced together from whatever they had lying around or whomever was able to provide them with the cheapest batch of parts that month. That various bodges inside them on a console to console basis kinda demonstrates this.
The 6502C 'Sally' was also the same used in the 5200 and 8-bit computers. So the 7800 can operate with any of them from those other systems.
 

Exactly my though! for the time needed to do the cleaning and foil dot method, I think this is a better option because this only takes a few min to install and is likely to last for a very long time given everything is gold on gold contact, and the contact points themselves on these new mylars are much larger than Atari or the other Vendor's designs.
 

So I hinted about this in another thread elsewhere, but though it might be good to give it is own post.
So a new challenger has emerged online under the website AtariRepairParts.com and as the name implies they provide replacement parts for Atari stuff. However, as they are very very new, the parts available is basically limited to just a few things. But, perhaps the most interesting is their replacement mylar and membrane buttons for the standard OEM 5200 controller (CX-52). Similar to another well known vendor, AtariRepairParts has created their own mylar and button replacements that are also gold plated.
The main difference here is that they cost for a complete set is about 50% less of the other well known vendor. They also don't have any limits on the number of items you can order and have PayPal so payments are easy to make. 
I ordered two sets of these replacements for just under $50 shipped. That might seem like a lot for something so old, but again for the price of 2 sets to install into one controllers from AtariRepairParts compared to that same price for just a single controller from the other vendor, it is a good deal.
I received them in yesterday and only ordered them a few days prior, so they arrived very quickly! Here is my initial impressions of these new replacement rebuild kits..
First lets talk about how everything arrived. It was delivered in a bubble mailer using a section of card stock and envelope to protect and prevent bending of the mylar flex. The membrane buttons were just loose in the padded envelope but as this is all very light weight and small, I don't have any issues with this packing.
The first thing you notice is that the mylar is a very matte black finish in color overall. But you can still see the traces etc. Ever contact point on the flex is gold plated including the fingers that insert into the controller wire harness connector. Additionally, it could have been the way it looked, but I believe that section with the fingers is a tad longer than the stock mylar so they seat in further and more secure as a result. The mylar overall is also a little thicker than the stock mylar and more rigid as a result. But I don't find this to be a negative at all since it means it should be able to withstand the flexing and bending it has to go through much better over time. The mylar also has preaffixed adhesive pads so that it can attach to the keypad support plate, and each of the arms for the fire buttons on the mylar will attach to the vertical supports on the controller properly. In the past I've had to keep double sided tape on hand with replacements so this is a welcome thing to have! I do think another strip should be included for the top row buttons as it doesn't have one for that part. But if you consider the fact that the membrane buttons sit on top of that section, I guess it isn't as critical.
The membrane buttons appear to be new and look and feel like the originals. This is good and bad because a lot of folks don't like the mushy feel of the original buttons and these will retain that original feel. However, similar to the mylar, each contact on the membrane has a gold plated disc that is secured to the buttons. So gold on gold contact will minimize any corrosion over the years from occurring.
Installation is a breeze since everything is of the same size as original parts so it just all fits in place where it should. Even the small holes on the keypad to line it up on the support tray are present and in the correct location. So yeah provided you know how to take the original controller apart properly, installing a set of these should only take a few minutes time. 
I played a few games of The Last Starfighter to break it all in and I have to say that everything worked great! My only criticism is that the top row membrane buttons seem to sit a little lower than the originals and as a result I found them difficult to actually press and make contact. But they do work it just requires a little more direct pressing than I'm used to with my older buttons and foil taped contact pads hehe. Still, the quality of these replacement parts are very nice and I imagine the controller will not require much if any maintenance in the future since the only real failure point now would be the cabling or potentiometers inside the controller itself of which, there aren't any replacements for yet at this time.
AtariRepairParts.com
 

So I hinted about this in another thread elsewhere, but though it might be good to give it is own post.
So a new challenger has emerged online under the website AtariRepairParts.com and as the name implies they provide replacement parts for Atari stuff. However, as they are very very new, the parts available is basically limited to just a few things. But, perhaps the most interesting is their replacement mylar and membrane buttons for the standard OEM 5200 controller (CX-52). Similar to another well known vendor, AtariRepairParts has created their own mylar and button replacements that are also gold plated.
The main difference here is that they cost for a complete set is about 50% less of the other well known vendor. They also don't have any limits on the number of items you can order and have PayPal so payments are easy to make. 
I ordered two sets of these replacements for just under $50 shipped. That might seem like a lot for something so old, but again for the price of 2 sets to install into one controllers from AtariRepairParts compared to that same price for just a single controller from the other vendor, it is a good deal.
I received them in yesterday and only ordered them a few days prior, so they arrived very quickly! Here is my initial impressions of these new replacement rebuild kits..
First lets talk about how everything arrived. It was delivered in a bubble mailer using a section of card stock and envelope to protect and prevent bending of the mylar flex. The membrane buttons were just loose in the padded envelope but as this is all very light weight and small, I don't have any issues with this packing.
The first thing you notice is that the mylar is a very matte black finish in color overall. But you can still see the traces etc. Ever contact point on the flex is gold plated including the fingers that insert into the controller wire harness connector. Additionally, it could have been the way it looked, but I believe that section with the fingers is a tad longer than the stock mylar so they seat in further and more secure as a result. The mylar overall is also a little thicker than the stock mylar and more rigid as a result. But I don't find this to be a negative at all since it means it should be able to withstand the flexing and bending it has to go through much better over time. The mylar also has preaffixed adhesive pads so that it can attach to the keypad support plate, and each of the arms for the fire buttons on the mylar will attach to the vertical supports on the controller properly. In the past I've had to keep double sided tape on hand with replacements so this is a welcome thing to have! I do think another strip should be included for the top row buttons as it doesn't have one for that part. But if you consider the fact that the membrane buttons sit on top of that section, I guess it isn't as critical.
The membrane buttons appear to be new and look and feel like the originals. This is good and bad because a lot of folks don't like the mushy feel of the original buttons and these will retain that original feel. However, similar to the mylar, each contact on the membrane has a gold plated disc that is secured to the buttons. So gold on gold contact will minimize any corrosion over the years from occurring.
Installation is a breeze since everything is of the same size as original parts so it just all fits in place where it should. Even the small holes on the keypad to line it up on the support tray are present and in the correct location. So yeah provided you know how to take the original controller apart properly, installing a set of these should only take a few minutes time. 
I played a few games of The Last Starfighter to break it all in and I have to say that everything worked great! My only criticism is that the top row membrane buttons seem to sit a little lower than the originals and as a result I found them difficult to actually press and make contact. But they do work it just requires a little more direct pressing than I'm used to with my older buttons and foil taped contact pads hehe. Still, the quality of these replacement parts are very nice and I imagine the controller will not require much if any maintenance in the future since the only real failure point now would be the cabling or potentiometers inside the controller itself of which, there aren't any replacements for yet at this time.
AtariRepairParts.com
 

BallBlazer is best on the 7800 with the slightly increased color palette and especially much smoother overall game play speed! There is some improvement in the graphics on the 7800 version as well. Really noticed when you see the rotofoyls up close as they appear much more jagged and pixelated on the 5200 / 8-bit vs the 7800.
 

I brought this up a few times with Lewis during beta testing. Here is the odd thing. I was the only one of the testers to notice this slow down to any degree. There was much more of it and much worse in earlier builds. But yes it seems that once you have radios blinking away on all floors on a screen, that the system has trouble at that point. But again, it wasn't something that Lewis was able to replicate to the same degree I was showing. I even recorded screen footage of the plays where it would come up at 60fps and you could see the slowdown plain as day, but Lewis and the other testers couldn't replicate it or didn't notice it as they were playing on CRTs and I might have been the only one playing with AV upgrades etc in place. 
So this could be somewhat 7800 specific. We already know that in addition to the red-headed step child treatment is received under the Tramiel banner, that it also seemed very much to be a console that was pieced together from whatever they had lying around or whomever was able to provide them with the cheapest batch of parts that month. That various bodges inside them on a console to console basis kinda demonstrates this.
The 6502C 'Sally' was also the same used in the 5200 and 8-bit computers. So the 7800 can operate with any of them from those other systems.
 

There is another option to get them working again...that would cost less and you could do it yourself...
https://atarirepairparts.com/

It is new and I only learned about this weekend. I've placed an order for 2 sets of them to check them out. As I know who owns the site I have the utmost faith in the seller and the product will likely be quality to boot.
 

There is another option to get them working again...that would cost less and you could do it yourself...
https://atarirepairparts.com/