CrossBow

The ROM name on my LTO is 'Blue Bastard". But it is Smurfs for sure. I honestly can't remember how I got it or where I found it? It didn't come with my LTO and I'm pretty sure it was just one of the many roms I've got on my PC stored away from the past 20+ years.
 

I got in too late to get that but I would have for sure! I was only able to guy the ROM for it from Mr. Moeller directly about 2 years back.
There is quite a lot on the Intellivision side of the scene that I don't have or found out about much too late to get physical versions of the games.
 

Hmm... there are quite a few for me that fit this category. I would say Streets of Rage II and Gunstar heroes on the Genesis are games I always seem to fire up to play often.
On PC it would be Doom and the variants of it along with Wing Commander and Darwinia.
For Atari that is trickier... as that is all over the place for me. But at least on the 5200 I can say The Last Starfighter, Rescue on Fractalus for sure.
For the Intellivision it is Thunder Castle and Diner. (Although I do play my rom of Mystic Castle most these days)
 

Hmm... there are quite a few for me that fit this category. I would say Streets of Rage II and Gunstar heroes on the Genesis are games I always seem to fire up to play often.
On PC it would be Doom and the variants of it along with Wing Commander and Darwinia.
For Atari that is trickier... as that is all over the place for me. But at least on the 5200 I can say The Last Starfighter, Rescue on Fractalus for sure.
For the Intellivision it is Thunder Castle and Diner. (Although I do play my rom of Mystic Castle most these days)
 

The ROM name on my LTO is 'Blue Bastard". But it is Smurfs for sure. I honestly can't remember how I got it or where I found it? It didn't come with my LTO and I'm pretty sure it was just one of the many roms I've got on my PC stored away from the past 20+ years.
 

I've got the rom for it at least on my LTO cart. Although it has a different title but it is the same game.
 

I like quite a few others had been waiting for this because our Everdrives weren't working. I own a ver. 2.5 TED cart and none of the other work arounds posted were working for that model. Additionally, info from Krikzz stated that it wasn't likely to ever be possible to make those mid version TurboED carts work.
Well, we don't have to mess with any of it anymore as a jailbreak has been posted in a github that replaces the current firmware on the A-DUO and allows the use of .pce and even PCE CD ISO images to work from the SDcard on the back of the A-DUO. Just have to place the files in the right folders on the SD card and then after loading in the new firmware, you will have a new Play Assets option. Selecting this will then show the list of games it finds on the SDcard. CD ISOs have to be in their own separate subfolder for each game while you can have a set of different .PCE files on the SDCard to read normal HuCard images from.
And yes, so far the Library still shows the screenshots for each game when you select them just like normal games provided you have that images fileset. Save States still aren't a thing yet and it is unknown if this jail break will be updated once Analogue officially releases new FW to support that. But in the meantime, if you like me, have a TED you can't use on your A-DUO this link solves that issue for the time being.
https://github.com/analoguejb/Analogue-Duo-JB
 

I like quite a few others had been waiting for this because our Everdrives weren't working. I own a ver. 2.5 TED cart and none of the other work arounds posted were working for that model. Additionally, info from Krikzz stated that it wasn't likely to ever be possible to make those mid version TurboED carts work.
Well, we don't have to mess with any of it anymore as a jailbreak has been posted in a github that replaces the current firmware on the A-DUO and allows the use of .pce and even PCE CD ISO images to work from the SDcard on the back of the A-DUO. Just have to place the files in the right folders on the SD card and then after loading in the new firmware, you will have a new Play Assets option. Selecting this will then show the list of games it finds on the SDcard. CD ISOs have to be in their own separate subfolder for each game while you can have a set of different .PCE files on the SDCard to read normal HuCard images from.
And yes, so far the Library still shows the screenshots for each game when you select them just like normal games provided you have that images fileset. Save States still aren't a thing yet and it is unknown if this jail break will be updated once Analogue officially releases new FW to support that. But in the meantime, if you like me, have a TED you can't use on your A-DUO this link solves that issue for the time being.
https://github.com/analoguejb/Analogue-Duo-JB
 

Other than the ladders issue on DD for some odd reason still being a problem. It even happens in the A7800 emulator that is considered to be the best current 7800 emulator out there. So it is just something that I guess was never reported until recently.
 

Other than the ladders issue on DD for some odd reason still being a problem. It even happens in the A7800 emulator that is considered to be the best current 7800 emulator out there. So it is just something that I guess was never reported until recently.
 

Jag repro carts are a thing... I 'might' have one as an example so that I could see what the buzz was about for a particular game and wanted to play it on actual hardware.
 

Lynda Carter all the way for me!

Lynda Carter all the way for me!

Sometime back I designed a two PCB set to help with installing mini din connectors in my Intellivision service work. I had requests from others to provide these files so that the PCBs can be used by all that might want to use them. Here is a link to the PDF guide that details the assembly process for the PCBs for use in the Intellivision 2609 model consoles. These can also be used on the Super Pro System and INTV III consoles as they are designed for installing in place of the RF modulator to provide a no cut solution for AV upgrades.
Link to 2609 mount board assembly PDF guide
The advantage of these mount boards is that being a 2 part PCB means I can use the same bottom base PCB for both model 2609 and INTV II consoles. With only the top PCB portion being different. Here is an example install I did very recently showing one of the completely mount board setups in place in a 2609 Intellivision that received an RGB upgrade. Here I used a 9pin mini din for the RGB and audio, but also the 9pin allows for composite to be wired up. This means that any Sega Genesis/MD model 2 AV cable setup can be used.

 
And the mount board has room to allow for aligning the mini din connector to be as centered as much as is possible.

 
I've also attached the PDF to this post to make it easier. Links for the gerber files to have PCBs made up can be found within the PDF. I do plan to make something similar for the INTV II model consoles as those have their own mount board PCB setup but is similar to build and use as the one shown here.
I've also released a video on my YT channel going through the assembly process and use of the mount PCBs into an actual 2609 model console I recently finished up for a client. The lighting is horrible on this as I had the exposure set way to high, but didn't really noticed until the very end so I apologize for that. Still, it shows detailed enough on how to use these PCBs.
 
 

There is a LOT of info regarding the Atari 7800 and UAV setups out there and I'm just as guilty as the next guy for not making it any easier to find this information. Well, I think enough is known at this point where I thought it might be a good idea for me to create a thread where I can place all of my UAV resources and knowledge in one place that can be found pretty easily. So this thread will contain the links to my UAV install guides and other resources I share.
Let's start with the PDF guides. There are two different guides depending on the install method you go with:
Here is the guide for the standard UAV 7800 installation using point to point wiring for all of the connections. This is a more complex way of installing a UAV, but allow for more freedom in placement of the UAV in your setup and was the main method used for many years.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19GLfVgQDS6ZPKzZn4rjHAAaMT0nxgaed/view?usp=drive_link
Here is the link for the guide if you go with one of the ITC mount board setups. This is an easier installation method I feel and has a few other benefits as well with cleaned up chroma timing for better color alignment, composite artifact color adjustments, and replicated mixing for the audio already in place. The mount boards can be purchased through the Brewing Academy.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1og9jXxrFBnWkmiCOjuYaBaitgUb7waXZ/view?usp=drive_link
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I've also recently come up with a method for a near no cut UAV upgrade solution. This uses a 10pin mini din connector that was used on the Sega Saturn console. As such, the mini din is ideal as it provides for composite, s-video, and the audio all in one place. This way any sega saturn cable sets that have composite, s-video, and audio can be used. Depending on the cable set used, it might not even require any case modification at all! But on the installs I do providing this as a service, I will be widening the RF opening slightly to allow for cable jackets to fit through better for a more full secure seat of the cable into the AV jack. Here is some detail on how that install method looks:
Here I'm using a (Repaired TBA UAV mount) in a low profile install. This install I remove the resistors that would normally be in place where the mount board is located. As the use of the MD10 requires removing the RF modulator, those resistors are no longer required anyway. This isn't needed but I like the way it looks and the mount board pretty much fits right into the original vias that the resistors were in making it way easy to solder into place.

Here is an overview of what the whole setup would look like with an MD10 in place.

Here is how the MD10 looks when soldered to the main board. It does require a very slight angle so that the MD10 sits flush against the back of the shell allowing the cable inserted to go straight in. Otherwise, it might not fit.

And here is what the setup looks like from the outside of the case. In this picture due to the angle of the shot, the md10 doesn't appear very centered. But it is.

Here is a detail of the MD10 av jack centered in the pic so you can see how it would actually be.

Here is a link for the gerber files for the breakout PCB you see in these pics for the MD10 jack. It is designed mainly for the 7800 or UAV installs in general as there are connection pads only for composite, s-video, and the audio. I did create two separate traces for the Left and Right audio for those that want to mess with 'stereo' audio setups. But I also included a jumper pad to put a solder blob on to get dual mono easily. When using the jumper, you only need to attach to one of the audio pads for audio output. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DzNX17Jef088r-ucAQ8NhD_FGaNMth3Q/view?usp=drive_link
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Bob DeCrescenzo (PacManPlus) did design a 3D printed replacement case shell for the 7800. However, I don't believe this shell has cutouts for the AV jacks so that is something that has to be done separately. Same with the power jack, in that with this 3D printed case, the power port sits too far back inside the shell. So you have to either desolder the plug and snap it into the case shell with additional wire soldered back to the main board or use a different power port/plug combo. Bob has stated that he does NOT want to see folks making these and selling them for profit. So he has released these under an honor policy that you only have them made up for your specific console use.
https://forums.atariage.com/topic/320563-i-present-to-you-the-7800jr-case/?do=findComment&comment=5275149
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I will add more information as needed or requested as it relates specifically to the Atari 7800 and UAV setups.
 
 
 

I've added the link to the AA forums where Bob released his STL files for his 3D printable shell replacement for the 7800.

There is a LOT of info regarding the Atari 7800 and UAV setups out there and I'm just as guilty as the next guy for not making it any easier to find this information. Well, I think enough is known at this point where I thought it might be a good idea for me to create a thread where I can place all of my UAV resources and knowledge in one place that can be found pretty easily. So this thread will contain the links to my UAV install guides and other resources I share.
Let's start with the PDF guides. There are two different guides depending on the install method you go with:
Here is the guide for the standard UAV 7800 installation using point to point wiring for all of the connections. This is a more complex way of installing a UAV, but allow for more freedom in placement of the UAV in your setup and was the main method used for many years.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19GLfVgQDS6ZPKzZn4rjHAAaMT0nxgaed/view?usp=drive_link
Here is the link for the guide if you go with one of the ITC mount board setups. This is an easier installation method I feel and has a few other benefits as well with cleaned up chroma timing for better color alignment, composite artifact color adjustments, and replicated mixing for the audio already in place. The mount boards can be purchased through the Brewing Academy.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1og9jXxrFBnWkmiCOjuYaBaitgUb7waXZ/view?usp=drive_link
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I've also recently come up with a method for a near no cut UAV upgrade solution. This uses a 10pin mini din connector that was used on the Sega Saturn console. As such, the mini din is ideal as it provides for composite, s-video, and the audio all in one place. This way any sega saturn cable sets that have composite, s-video, and audio can be used. Depending on the cable set used, it might not even require any case modification at all! But on the installs I do providing this as a service, I will be widening the RF opening slightly to allow for cable jackets to fit through better for a more full secure seat of the cable into the AV jack. Here is some detail on how that install method looks:
Here I'm using a (Repaired TBA UAV mount) in a low profile install. This install I remove the resistors that would normally be in place where the mount board is located. As the use of the MD10 requires removing the RF modulator, those resistors are no longer required anyway. This isn't needed but I like the way it looks and the mount board pretty much fits right into the original vias that the resistors were in making it way easy to solder into place.

Here is an overview of what the whole setup would look like with an MD10 in place.

Here is how the MD10 looks when soldered to the main board. It does require a very slight angle so that the MD10 sits flush against the back of the shell allowing the cable inserted to go straight in. Otherwise, it might not fit.

And here is what the setup looks like from the outside of the case. In this picture due to the angle of the shot, the md10 doesn't appear very centered. But it is.

Here is a detail of the MD10 av jack centered in the pic so you can see how it would actually be.

Here is a link for the gerber files for the breakout PCB you see in these pics for the MD10 jack. It is designed mainly for the 7800 or UAV installs in general as there are connection pads only for composite, s-video, and the audio. I did create two separate traces for the Left and Right audio for those that want to mess with 'stereo' audio setups. But I also included a jumper pad to put a solder blob on to get dual mono easily. When using the jumper, you only need to attach to one of the audio pads for audio output. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DzNX17Jef088r-ucAQ8NhD_FGaNMth3Q/view?usp=drive_link
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Bob DeCrescenzo (PacManPlus) did design a 3D printed replacement case shell for the 7800. However, I don't believe this shell has cutouts for the AV jacks so that is something that has to be done separately. Same with the power jack, in that with this 3D printed case, the power port sits too far back inside the shell. So you have to either desolder the plug and snap it into the case shell with additional wire soldered back to the main board or use a different power port/plug combo. Bob has stated that he does NOT want to see folks making these and selling them for profit. So he has released these under an honor policy that you only have them made up for your specific console use.
https://forums.atariage.com/topic/320563-i-present-to-you-the-7800jr-case/?do=findComment&comment=5275149
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I will add more information as needed or requested as it relates specifically to the Atari 7800 and UAV setups.
 
 
 

Just confirmed that the exact same thing happens in the A7800 emulator using the AB ROM version of the game. The OM version doesn't even load up in emulators. But yeah...ladders can't be climbed until the last two enemies at the end of that section are defeated first and just before moving over to the final enemy and Abobo boss for level 1. Also, I was using elbow punches and reverse jump kicks to take the enemies out quickly as possible and by the time I got to the Abobo, I was down to only 9 left on the timer?! So the timer is moving way too quickly as if you are trying to use normal attacks and the like, you aren't going to get through even level 1 without loosing a life due to the timer. Again, both the non working ladders and the fast timer happen on the 2600+ on the latest FW and also in the A7800 emulator.
 

In any event, I need to pull the 2600+ out of the box  to update it. I've honestly not needed it since I did the cartridge port replacement on it and stopped testing with the last batch of FW updates they were sending me to test.
My 7800 just...'works' you know? LOL!
 

Okay, So I need someone else that also has a physical cart of 7800 Double Dragon to test something for me. Previously with the builds we had, while DD was working, I had controller input issues happening near the beginning when the 2 William's enemies both show up. this newer update corrects for this now. But another issue I noticed even before then is still  happening and I can't figure it out.
The issue is ladders. Specifically the first two you come across about midway through the first level. Where the Beetle bug poster is? Pretty sure on the actual 7800 I can climb that first ladder without any issue as soon as it appears on the screen. But on the 2600+ my character will NOT climb this ladder no matter what? He will climb the second one..but not until the Abobo and other enemy are on the screen and after that first ladder has been scrolled off screen? 
I'm so dang rusty on this game that I've not been able to get past the 2nd level yet to see if it happens anywhere else. But I know this isn't how those two ladders work on my actual console.
@sramirez2008 or anyone else able to test this for me so I know I'm not going crazy? (at least before I should be...)
 

Okay, So I need someone else that also has a physical cart of 7800 Double Dragon to test something for me. Previously with the builds we had, while DD was working, I had controller input issues happening near the beginning when the 2 William's enemies both show up. this newer update corrects for this now. But another issue I noticed even before then is still  happening and I can't figure it out.
The issue is ladders. Specifically the first two you come across about midway through the first level. Where the Beetle bug poster is? Pretty sure on the actual 7800 I can climb that first ladder without any issue as soon as it appears on the screen. But on the 2600+ my character will NOT climb this ladder no matter what? He will climb the second one..but not until the Abobo and other enemy are on the screen and after that first ladder has been scrolled off screen? 
I'm so dang rusty on this game that I've not been able to get past the 2nd level yet to see if it happens anywhere else. But I know this isn't how those two ladders work on my actual console.
@sramirez2008 or anyone else able to test this for me so I know I'm not going crazy? (at least before I should be...)
 

Yeap...and I have both the original one that has a game breaking bug in it and a replacement that I put into a replacement shell and received new sticker labels for.
 

In any event, I need to pull the 2600+ out of the box  to update it. I've honestly not needed it since I did the cartridge port replacement on it and stopped testing with the last batch of FW updates they were sending me to test.
My 7800 just...'works' you know? LOL!
 

It is also worth mentioning that the games that are nominated are either released publicly making them easy to play or have a demo version in most cases that give a good representation of the game as a whole.
But I have noticed that a few of the games this year are essentially (here is a YT video of it in action), and that is all that is provided to base judgement. I don't agree with such games being allowed because in my eyes, you can't judge a game properly unless you have a chance to be able to play it in some form.
I'm not actually voting this year and it is the first time I'm taking this stance. I also declined being on the nomination team last year and this year not only for similar reasons already stated, but also because I was a tester on some of these and that will always bring about some bias. James stated he doesn't vote because he feels folks will think he has a natural bias on the games and I agree with him on that. But then lots of the Devs that watch his streams etc..., said he should vote?
 

The button on the lower right side is a mechanical button that switches the controller between 2600 2-btn & SMS 2 btn mode and 7800 2-btn mode. So the controller is designed to work on 3 different consoles to full capacity. The pause button is also wired up so that any console I modify internally using a simple logic gate circuit can have the console remotely paused. This is mainly for the SMS games. Many SMS games use the pause button on the console as a 3rd button to access inventory or stats in games. With that pause button being on the console itself, it isn't exactly ideal to have to get up each time I want to access that pause. But it can also be added to a 7800 as well pretty easily. 
The controller is using arcade level components and not the clones. In my case I opted for silent switches because all my other controllers have clicky switches and at night, it can be annoying when I want to play in low volume conditions.