CrossBow

For me the 7800 is really where it has been at lately. Course I might be biased... 😉
I do own a TurboDUO with a v2 TurboED cart. But... I still play on my 5200 more than I do my TurboDUO. It has some great games to be sure, but it just doesn't seem to have quite the same magic for me that Atari and Sega systems do.
One note on the 5200 and the VCS adapter. As @- Ω -'s 5200 has a UAV installed and I believe the RF was left intact, he would only be able to use the RF output for the VCS adapter. 
 

For me the 7800 is really where it has been at lately. Course I might be biased... 😉
I do own a TurboDUO with a v2 TurboED cart. But... I still play on my 5200 more than I do my TurboDUO. It has some great games to be sure, but it just doesn't seem to have quite the same magic for me that Atari and Sega systems do.
One note on the 5200 and the VCS adapter. As @- Ω -'s 5200 has a UAV installed and I believe the RF was left intact, he would only be able to use the RF output for the VCS adapter. 
 

For me the 7800 is really where it has been at lately. Course I might be biased... 😉
I do own a TurboDUO with a v2 TurboED cart. But... I still play on my 5200 more than I do my TurboDUO. It has some great games to be sure, but it just doesn't seem to have quite the same magic for me that Atari and Sega systems do.
One note on the 5200 and the VCS adapter. As @- Ω -'s 5200 has a UAV installed and I believe the RF was left intact, he would only be able to use the RF output for the VCS adapter. 
 

For me the 7800 is really where it has been at lately. Course I might be biased... 😉
I do own a TurboDUO with a v2 TurboED cart. But... I still play on my 5200 more than I do my TurboDUO. It has some great games to be sure, but it just doesn't seem to have quite the same magic for me that Atari and Sega systems do.
One note on the 5200 and the VCS adapter. As @- Ω -'s 5200 has a UAV installed and I believe the RF was left intact, he would only be able to use the RF output for the VCS adapter. 
 

I forgot to update this I guess? These UAV 7800 mount boards can now be purchased from the The Brewing Academy directly as they have the plans and everything to take over making them.
I've created an updated install guide specifically using the mount board that is attached to this post, and created a new install video highlighting the use of the mount board.
 
UAV_Install_A7800_Mnt_Brd.pdf

I've spoken about this in a blog previously and even updated the blog to show the actual PCB and sample of it installed. While I did make a very tiny error in my trace layout design, it isn't huge and is something that can be fixed in situ when I'm putting these mount boards together. So..what is this all about?
For sometime now I've been wondering about different ways to install the UAV into 7800 systems that might make it easier and look more professional as a result. Several ideas came to my mind and I also knew of at least one other person working on something similar. But as they hadn't made any progress towards it and eventually got out of the modding business, I decided a few months ago to look into this again.
The UAV is an amazing upgrade board. But as it was mainly designed around the Atari 8-bit computer line originally, the UAV design and installation are simpler on the 8-bit computers and 5200 as a result. But for several 2600 system revisions and the 7800 installs, wiring and quite a bit of it is needed to have a working UAV. But in the case of the 7800, most of those needed wire connections are actually all along a straight line in one portion of the 7800 main board. So it seemed that something should be possible to come up with an easier way to install the UAV. Additionally, if I'm to design something, then perhaps it could also be designed so that some other ideas could be added for consistency and to correct for some deficiencies in the UAV in regards to 7800 use.
That leads us finally to these:
 
 
Above is a pair of ready made mount boards. The board is designed so that it sits above the resistor ladder section and provides fairly easy to solder board interconnect pins that solder to the resistor legs directly. In addition, the design also has the audio inputs from R5 and R6 for the Pokey and TIA to be attached to as well. From there the UAV then sits onto the pins pointing up and align with the vias on the UAV. Initial testing is possible by appling light pressure onto the UAV to ensure a decent connection with the pins so that you know the UAV and your soldering on the mount board is good. Then, you solder the UAV to the pins for a semi permanent install. As I didn't see a need for a large empty board to mount the UAV onto, I also added the chroma fix circuit along with the added resistors and capacitor for proper audio mixing and a convenient solder pad for the audio output wire to attach to. 
So in essence, you just solder your wiring to the output vias on the UAV for whatever you plan to use either composite or s-video or both, and after soldering the UAV into place, you run a wire from the audio output pad to your RCA jacks or whatever you decide to use for audio output jacks.
Here is the first one of these I assembled where I used single pin sockets so that the UAV could be taken on/off the mount board easily. This was only for testing and actual install would have the UAV soldered securely in place. This also means that the UAV won't stand quite as tall off the mount board as you see in the picture below because it would only be about half the height off the mount board soldered directly.

Here you can see where the pcb interconnect pins are soldered to the resistor legs on the board.

 
Here is the 2 pins that get soldered down for the audio signals for Pokey(External audio line) and the TIA.

 
Here is the test board with the UAV installed on top. Again the actual installs and use of this board will have the UAV sitting half as tall from the mount PCB.

 
I also designed vias for the +5 and GND that line up with the +5 and GND from the RF modulator interface board. This was so I could use right angle headers to solder on top of the original pins off the RF modulator and then go into the mount PCB. But this isn't as simple to do as it might seem so those vias doesn't even have to be used. Instead power and ground wires could be soldered to those vias more easily or even to the large +5 and GND pads on the UAV itself to power everything. 
I've already started talking with Marlin over at the Brewing Academy about making these available as either separate boards or as part of a larger all in one complete 7800 kit. Nothing set in stone with them yet but I do think this will make DIY types more apt to try and install UAVs into their own 7800s without having to worry about everything being in the right place or worry about wiring coming loose from the resistors etc. Only wiring really needed here is from the output side to your AV jacks.
Any thoughts on this? Anything that seems confusing? Or perhaps it is overkill? 
 

What is interesting about you saying that, is The Brewing Academy actually thinks this will make the process so much easier and less daunting for budding DIY types they fear it will take away business from me if I make these publicly available and have them as part of a kit already? My intention with the work I do was never to make it a full time job as I have a full time job already. My intentions on the console work has always been to help people get their systems working again and perhaps offer a means to make it easier for these classic and vintage consoles to be enjoyed on both CRTs and modern displays.
TBA really seems interested in being able to make and provide these. So we shall see if I'm able to work out something with them. If nothing, else the next 9 atari 7800s that should come in for UAV upgrades, will at least have this initial idea installed into them.
 

Well I already have the original UAV install guide for the 7800 I did several years back. The only difference here is that there aren't any wires to attach the UAV up itself. Just the wiring that still needs to be done to run to your AV jacks on the console where ever a person happens to install them etc.
I would honestly like to keep this board set for myself as a mark of my installs so to speak. But I haven't the resources to make these on a large enough scale I don't think and Brewing Academy actually own a pick n place machine for making their stuff. So they can have bare PCBs made and populate and make them in a fraction of the time it takes me. 
Really as long as everyone knows where and whom designed them, I think that is all that really matters.
 

I state it is semi permanent because it isn't that simple to remove the mount once it is in place. But, no components have to be removed as I designed it to fit with the RF modulator left in place. That is part of the reason for the output side of the UAV having to stay on the left side of the mount board. To turn it around, meant that the UAV would end up being in the way of the audio tuning coil and that would have to be removed or resoldered in a different fashion. Or the UAV would end up hanging over the 74x logic ICs and make it difficult to replace those should it be needed in the future etc. 
I've managed to remove the mount but it took using my desoldering gun and having to carefully use a screw driver to pry the pins away form the resistor legs with the iron on them to loosen them up. So that is why I state it is semi permanent. But leaving it in place doesn't effect the RF output and vice versa.
Sounds like you did the simple composite only video upgrade on yours and that requires removing the RF and some other components because leaving them would cause interference in the composite output. The simple comp mod is just an amplifier that is boosting the original composite video that went into the RF modulator. So it is very susceptible to interference as a result. The UAV is a replacement video encoder circuit so it takes in the separate video signals needed and creates its own composite and s-video output. That is why it doesn't require having to remove anything and being able to leave the 7800 in stock condition. It is also why the UAV provides a better quality composite and really good quality s-video output as a result.
Now, the mount PCB does increase parts costs of course and they weren't cheap for me to have made up. Because I still end up having to hand solder everything together on them. So... in my installs it adds another $10 to the cost of parts, but due to time savings for actual installation, I dropped the labor costs $10 to compensate. Not sure what TBA will charge for them if they decide to go forward with having more made and using them.
But I think with all the confusion that exists with different methods to install the UAV depending on the Atari system you want to install it into, that an agreed standard method would make it way easier for everyone. So it would mean that the 7800 version of the kit would likely cost more than just installing a basic board, but the fact that additional work isn't needed for audio and it corrects from some of the chroma shifting a bit, plus allowing an easier to install method for everything really makes up for it I feel.
If you order a basic UAV (What I was doing prior to this), I still had to order separate 10µf caps and sets of 6.8k and 18k resistors for the audio mixing that had to be hand soldered together. The chroma fix was another PCB with a 100nf cap and 4050 IC chip on it that was assembled and soldered into the chroma line as well. So when you think about it, I wasn't really saving any money or time with the basic kit installs I'd been doing for the past several years. I'd gladly pay an extra $10 to have the extra stuff included and already done in a way that I don't have to do any additional wiring other than to my outputs. And that is what the UAV mount allows for.
BTW here are some additional pics of the latest one I did for a client. They had a previous... 'HDMI' install done and that had to all be ripped out. But as a result the RF modulator was already removed from the previous install. The UAV doesn't require having to put those components back, other than the C10 cap that the simple comp mod has you remove that affects the pokey audio. So that was the only component replaced.
This is the client's main board setup with the UAV soldered into place and using my test wire harnesses for burn in testing. Composite output on the small PVM and S-video on the larger LCD.

 
Here is a closeup view of the UAV installed during testing...

 
Here is the complete UAV and new BIOS install that the client also requested to have done.

And here are two sample pics of the s-video output directly from the flat panel LCD. This is an older multi input computer monitor so it has s-video, component, composite, DVI, and VGA inputs. I use a DVI to HDMI converter for Retrotink2x SCART usage when doing RGB installs. But you get a good look at the quality of the s-video output from a UAV. In many cases, I'd be happy enough with this and while an RGB output for the 7800 is eventually coming, I'm good with waiting while the s-video looks this good.

 

I forgot to update this I guess? These UAV 7800 mount boards can now be purchased from the The Brewing Academy directly as they have the plans and everything to take over making them.
I've created an updated install guide specifically using the mount board that is attached to this post, and created a new install video highlighting the use of the mount board.
 
UAV_Install_A7800_Mnt_Brd.pdf

I forgot to update this I guess? These UAV 7800 mount boards can now be purchased from the The Brewing Academy directly as they have the plans and everything to take over making them.
I've created an updated install guide specifically using the mount board that is attached to this post, and created a new install video highlighting the use of the mount board.
 
UAV_Install_A7800_Mnt_Brd.pdf

They will be available through Stone Age Gamer as Trek linked above, but they will also be in the AA store as well in time. I suspect they might be cheaper in the AA store for those willing to wait. I've added my email of course but not sure if I will be able to get in on the initial batch of them once they get released to the masses.
 

Pretty much just the power, CPU, controller logic functions of the console. The video output is simulated based on the cartridge data being executed. It works similar to how Krikzz Famicom RGB blaster cartridge works providing RGB from a Famicom without console modification. That is also how all of the audio options are able to work as well.
It will be a very impressive device once released and that release time is near. One word to mention is that the RGB output is just that RGB output only. Even though there is a Sega 9-pin mini din being used, it doesn't provide composite output and instead has c-sync on that pin so that other cables can be used that need it. Like HDRetrovision cables and the Rad2X for instance.
 

Pretty much just the power, CPU, controller logic functions of the console. The video output is simulated based on the cartridge data being executed. It works similar to how Krikzz Famicom RGB blaster cartridge works providing RGB from a Famicom without console modification. That is also how all of the audio options are able to work as well.
It will be a very impressive device once released and that release time is near. One word to mention is that the RGB output is just that RGB output only. Even though there is a Sega 9-pin mini din being used, it doesn't provide composite output and instead has c-sync on that pin so that other cables can be used that need it. Like HDRetrovision cables and the Rad2X for instance.
 

Pretty much just the power, CPU, controller logic functions of the console. The video output is simulated based on the cartridge data being executed. It works similar to how Krikzz Famicom RGB blaster cartridge works providing RGB from a Famicom without console modification. That is also how all of the audio options are able to work as well.
It will be a very impressive device once released and that release time is near. One word to mention is that the RGB output is just that RGB output only. Even though there is a Sega 9-pin mini din being used, it doesn't provide composite output and instead has c-sync on that pin so that other cables can be used that need it. Like HDRetrovision cables and the Rad2X for instance.
 

Pretty much just the power, CPU, controller logic functions of the console. The video output is simulated based on the cartridge data being executed. It works similar to how Krikzz Famicom RGB blaster cartridge works providing RGB from a Famicom without console modification. That is also how all of the audio options are able to work as well.
It will be a very impressive device once released and that release time is near. One word to mention is that the RGB output is just that RGB output only. Even though there is a Sega 9-pin mini din being used, it doesn't provide composite output and instead has c-sync on that pin so that other cables can be used that need it. Like HDRetrovision cables and the Rad2X for instance.
 

That has been the general concensus from others I've shown this too as well. The problem is that recapping a GG is pretty time consuming. The parts is only like a $10 kit which comes to less than $1 per cap, but the time to remove the old, clean up the board well, and especially reinstall with careful forming of the leads so it all fits nice, is time consuming.
There is a quote already paid for that was only for the LCD installation, Wasn't planning to charge for the audio board as I had those as spares on hand that would work, but for a full recap and redoing what someone else already did, that will cost them extra. They would rather I just clean up the board and inspect the work for any loose joints and go from there. 
I mean, even if a few years down the line it starts to have issues, it can be recapped then in a more proper manner since at least the originals are gone and aren't going to cause problems now. It could be argued the owner would save money spending the extra to have me do it again and not worry about it. But then none of us can really offer any warranties anyway since we are dealing with 30+ year old stuff here and what works great today, could develop an all new unrelated issue tomorrow that couldn't be forseen. And while these caps are generic and not of a brand I know of, they could still do the business just fine for many years to come...
I have sent these pics and expressed my concerns to the owner before posting any of this online. Again, the current decision is to clean it up, and continue on.
 

I've got a Game Gear that was sent to me to get a new LCD upgrade installed. Normally as part of something like this and especially with Game Gears, I require that the console get new capacitors to be sure everything in regards to power where needed is clean and all worn out leaking caps are replaced. In the case of the Game Gear, it isn't an option really as they all need their caps replaced due to the poor quality of the capacitors made in the 90s.
So due to circumstances, the owner of this GG was having issues getting the screws removed from the console. They were required to open it to be sure which model main board they have so the correct LCD kit could be ordered. Well, they sent it to a 'tech' that offers Game Gear services on ebay and they were able to remove the stuck screws and also provided a recap of the console as well. For some reason, they weren't willing to install the upgraded LCD for the owner. The owner contacts me to ask if I'm willing to install the upgraded screen for them as the system has just been recapped and is working fully in stock condition at this time. I agreed to handle the request.
I receive the GG and then proceed to test it before doing anything to be sure everything appears to be working correctly. It was...mostly. I noticed that audio would sometimes seem to cut out and sounded more distorted than usual at louder volumes with this GG. So I opened it up and was not exactly prepared for what I found inside....

That is the audio board. I won't go into too much detail on this as I think the picture will say most of what needs to be said. But the main issues are two things here: 
1st, they use cheap no brand capacitors that in all fairness likely work just fine but for how long or how well I can't say.
2nd and worst issue is that no attempt was made to clean up the original pads and leaking electrolyte from the original capacitors or the flux that was used. You can see this with all the dark yellow to brown spots on the board. 
The fact that the caps are radial vs the SMD that was originally used isn't a huge deal but they could have tried to use smaller sized caps vs this mess. This required them to bend part of the metal shield for the cartridge port section for this to fit. 
I wish it ended there... but here is a pic of the left side of the main GG system board. Now to be honest, the soldering here is likely fine and again the caps are doing the job as the system is working. But the lack of any attempt to clean this up around the solder work is really lazy and will cause problems further down the line as even flux can be corrosive over time.

Last is that it doesn't appear that the actual power board for the console was even touched. I state this because the small plastic cover for the battery terminals for it was stuck fast and hadn't appeared to be have been removed before. Also, the solder joints and bottom portion of the PCB appears aged. Given the lack of cleaning on the spots they did work on, I would have expected some brown flux residue but nothing like that on the power board. Also, the caps on this board I'm pretty sure are factory and were a brand that Sega was using in the GGs back then.


I will likely redo that cap located at C1 on the bottom of the PCB because it is a bit off kilter. But again, that is factory work.
Well, in an attempt to make a point and see if I could correct the audio issues, I went ahead and redid the audio board with SMD caps of more exact spec that was used and it did correct the audio dropouts and distortion I was getting. Here is what the audio board looks like now cleaned up as best as I could...


So now the question is... should I just redo the capacitor work on this entire GG? It is working so I do plan to at least try and clean up the board more. That will also give me a better look on the solder joints that were done to see if anything looks weak or suspect. But I also feel bad for the owner as I don't know what they paid for this service and I don't need to know nor did I ask who did this.
Remember, you should always ask for references and pictures of work done in the past by any person you are reaching out to for services. If they aren't able to provide or offer, then you might want to look elsewhere so you can have a better idea on what you are paying for.
 

I've got a Game Gear that was sent to me to get a new LCD upgrade installed. Normally as part of something like this and especially with Game Gears, I require that the console get new capacitors to be sure everything in regards to power where needed is clean and all worn out leaking caps are replaced. In the case of the Game Gear, it isn't an option really as they all need their caps replaced due to the poor quality of the capacitors made in the 90s.
So due to circumstances, the owner of this GG was having issues getting the screws removed from the console. They were required to open it to be sure which model main board they have so the correct LCD kit could be ordered. Well, they sent it to a 'tech' that offers Game Gear services on ebay and they were able to remove the stuck screws and also provided a recap of the console as well. For some reason, they weren't willing to install the upgraded LCD for the owner. The owner contacts me to ask if I'm willing to install the upgraded screen for them as the system has just been recapped and is working fully in stock condition at this time. I agreed to handle the request.
I receive the GG and then proceed to test it before doing anything to be sure everything appears to be working correctly. It was...mostly. I noticed that audio would sometimes seem to cut out and sounded more distorted than usual at louder volumes with this GG. So I opened it up and was not exactly prepared for what I found inside....

That is the audio board. I won't go into too much detail on this as I think the picture will say most of what needs to be said. But the main issues are two things here: 
1st, they use cheap no brand capacitors that in all fairness likely work just fine but for how long or how well I can't say.
2nd and worst issue is that no attempt was made to clean up the original pads and leaking electrolyte from the original capacitors or the flux that was used. You can see this with all the dark yellow to brown spots on the board. 
The fact that the caps are radial vs the SMD that was originally used isn't a huge deal but they could have tried to use smaller sized caps vs this mess. This required them to bend part of the metal shield for the cartridge port section for this to fit. 
I wish it ended there... but here is a pic of the left side of the main GG system board. Now to be honest, the soldering here is likely fine and again the caps are doing the job as the system is working. But the lack of any attempt to clean this up around the solder work is really lazy and will cause problems further down the line as even flux can be corrosive over time.

Last is that it doesn't appear that the actual power board for the console was even touched. I state this because the small plastic cover for the battery terminals for it was stuck fast and hadn't appeared to be have been removed before. Also, the solder joints and bottom portion of the PCB appears aged. Given the lack of cleaning on the spots they did work on, I would have expected some brown flux residue but nothing like that on the power board. Also, the caps on this board I'm pretty sure are factory and were a brand that Sega was using in the GGs back then.


I will likely redo that cap located at C1 on the bottom of the PCB because it is a bit off kilter. But again, that is factory work.
Well, in an attempt to make a point and see if I could correct the audio issues, I went ahead and redid the audio board with SMD caps of more exact spec that was used and it did correct the audio dropouts and distortion I was getting. Here is what the audio board looks like now cleaned up as best as I could...


So now the question is... should I just redo the capacitor work on this entire GG? It is working so I do plan to at least try and clean up the board more. That will also give me a better look on the solder joints that were done to see if anything looks weak or suspect. But I also feel bad for the owner as I don't know what they paid for this service and I don't need to know nor did I ask who did this.
Remember, you should always ask for references and pictures of work done in the past by any person you are reaching out to for services. If they aren't able to provide or offer, then you might want to look elsewhere so you can have a better idea on what you are paying for.
 

Got me one of those Jaguar today. Got lucky in an auction. The unit 2 controllers & OEM power. Can't wait to try out this beast!
I repaired one a few years ago for a friend. Now i got my own to tinker on.

Isn't Cosmic Carnage kinda in the same genre? But yes I do really like Smash T.V. and I do own Xenocrisis for my Genesis. Wonderful game but I'm awful at it as I can't progress very far. Likely because it really wants and needs a twin stick setup to really get far in the game and I just haven't been able to acclimate to the control schemes for the game.
 

Not a ton of pickups recently, but I did get two of these games as part of a trade towards console services I provided to a friend of mine who is also a retro gaming enthusiast. 

The two games being 7800 Midnight Mutants and 5200 Dreadnaught Factor. Midnight Mutants isn't sealed but is complete and in really nice condition overall. This means I might have a spare loose cart and possibly manual I can trade out soon. But the Dreadnaught Factor is sealed and unopened with the original retail stickers on it from back in the early 80s. 
onEscape is cool new point n click type adventure game for the Atari 8-bit computers. It has a wonderful pokey soundtrack that you can only fully take advantage of with a stereo pokey setup in the console. It also features some really nice pixel art in quite a few places with an intro cutscenes. Its only drawback if you want to consider it that, is there isn't a save option so it does require playing through it in one sitting. However, it is quite short so once you know what to do, you can get through the game in a matter of less than 10min at that point. Still always happy to support the community making these awesome brews for our old systems and the soundtrack really is kinda worth the price of admission in this case.
The Genesis cartridge you see titled 'Decoder' is another music album put on cart from a pretty well known chiptune artist by the name of Remute. This cartridge instead of being a jukebox style album, actually has graphic novel you read through that has the music playing between each portion you read. There is even some short FMV sequences it plays while reading through the story and the still pics are quite colorful and detailed making excellent use of the Genesis palette restrictions. There is a standard jukebox mode as well but it isn't very interactive in that you just choose that mode and it just plays through each song in full one by one, so the real star of that cart is the graphic novel you read through.

Not a ton of pickups recently, but I did get two of these games as part of a trade towards console services I provided to a friend of mine who is also a retro gaming enthusiast. 

The two games being 7800 Midnight Mutants and 5200 Dreadnaught Factor. Midnight Mutants isn't sealed but is complete and in really nice condition overall. This means I might have a spare loose cart and possibly manual I can trade out soon. But the Dreadnaught Factor is sealed and unopened with the original retail stickers on it from back in the early 80s. 
onEscape is cool new point n click type adventure game for the Atari 8-bit computers. It has a wonderful pokey soundtrack that you can only fully take advantage of with a stereo pokey setup in the console. It also features some really nice pixel art in quite a few places with an intro cutscenes. Its only drawback if you want to consider it that, is there isn't a save option so it does require playing through it in one sitting. However, it is quite short so once you know what to do, you can get through the game in a matter of less than 10min at that point. Still always happy to support the community making these awesome brews for our old systems and the soundtrack really is kinda worth the price of admission in this case.
The Genesis cartridge you see titled 'Decoder' is another music album put on cart from a pretty well known chiptune artist by the name of Remute. This cartridge instead of being a jukebox style album, actually has graphic novel you read through that has the music playing between each portion you read. There is even some short FMV sequences it plays while reading through the story and the still pics are quite colorful and detailed making excellent use of the Genesis palette restrictions. There is a standard jukebox mode as well but it isn't very interactive in that you just choose that mode and it just plays through each song in full one by one, so the real star of that cart is the graphic novel you read through.

Biggest issue with the sockets they used was that most of them were single wipe and so over time they have worn a bit loose and corrosion can start to cause the chip and socket to want to become 'one'.
 

Depends on when it was made. I think all the JRs for instance those chips are soldered in. But on all of the sixers and many of the 4port models, they still used sockets for them.