CrossBow

I got my 2600+ from FedEx yesterday. My initial impressions are that it does feel like it is built really well although I was a little surprised at how small the length of screws used were for holding it all together. For those that didn't know, all of the guts of the 2600+ are located in the switch panel section of the unit. It uses a couple of different PCBs sandwiched and connected together to do everything. 
Here are my Pros thus far:
The cartridge slot is actually quite nice and seems to have a good connection with the games I've tested it with. But do make sure you clean any of your old cartridges you haven't used in a while to be sure that you are allowing as good a connection as possible and to prevent adding any crud from your old carts into the 2600+. 
The switches are kinda amazing on this thing?! They have a very satisfying click to the power and color/bw switch and the select and reset have a point where you can feel them engage and their spring back action is very nice. It makes me wonder if the switches can be adapted to OEM consoles...
My 2600+ shipped set to 16:9 mode. This will result in that fully stretched image that some like and some do not. I prefer to NOT have that stretched look so I promptly set mine to 4:3 mode.
The hot swap ability of games is quite nice and I advise using this method since you save a little bit of time loading up games this way. If you power cycle the 2600+ off/on each time, then you have to wait for the 2600+ to boot up internally first before it starts to load the game. The hot swap works exactly as it sounds too. The 2600+ detects when you have a game in the console. If you pull it out while powered on, it will blank out and then go to game load failed. Pop in a different game and a second or two later, it will show game loading and the game will appear on the screen.
Seems to work with most of the original library of games for both 2600 and 7800 that I've tested so far. Quite a few older 2600 homebrews have also come up and worked for me. Some home brew games I tested last night that worked were:
Berzerk: VE originally released during CGE 2010 I believe?
K.O. Cruiser (Although I still can figure out the controls on this one)
Go Fish! (Worked great!)
Ninjish Guy (Most modern home brew I've tried so far and it worked great)
Medieval Mahem (Seemed to work okay with joystick and...bonus! It was in stereo?!)
 
Now for the cons and most of this is just stuff I've noticed and it mainly effects the 7800 side of things:
First let me get this out there. NONE of the 7800 homebrews or graphic hacks I tested would load. As the 2600+ uses a lookup table based on the game rom checksum to know how to load up, this doesn't surprise me. Hopefully the lookup table and possibly the emulated being used can be updated to allow support for some 7800 home brews. But again, NONE would load up for me.
The ONLY original released game for the 7800 that hasn't loaded up for me yet in my testing, was Rampage. It will start to load the game, but then just gives a black screen for me with my actual cartridge.
Ballblazer was the first game I loaded up and it did load up and play great. But... the pokey emulation isn't quite there as the entire counter melody on the title tune is missing. So this tells me that the RNG from the pokey isn't being emulated as that counter melody uses that pokey feature specifically.
Commando loaded up and played correctly. The ONLY issue is that there is some slight graphical corruption on the title screen where the difficulty selection is. But very minor and the game itself displays fine.
Some games appear to have their button 1 and button 2 functions swapped? Although some of the games, I've not played for a bit so I might be wrong on this. But using a normal 2-button 7800 controller, the games did work and respond correctly.
Now for some oddball miscellaneous stuff I've noticed or find interesting that can be taken as a pro or con...
The 2600+ outputs a 720P signal. Although it seems this isn't quite a standard 720P signal as my TV takes a second or two to lock in and show the output. Also, my capture device in the game room usually has no issue with 480P, 720P, and 1080P sources. But it does NOT like the 720P from the 2600+ and stays in pass through mode. So I'm not currently able to get any direct captures from the 2600+ output.
I've heard from others that some games don't work for them while others report they do. Both 7800 Ms. Pac-Man and Crossbow are reported as non-working for some and working for others. In my testing with my actual cartridges, both games loaded up and worked without issue for me. But it is possible there are two or more revisions of these games that were released over the years that could be the cause for this if they have slightly different checksums than what is being expected for those games in the 2600+. 
The power LED is stupid easy to replace as there is NO soldering involved. The LED is held in place with a 2 piece bracket using small phillips screws. A 2pin JST connector is plugged into the leads of the LED. So all that is needed to change the LED with a different color if you wanted, would be to remove the small screws and put in a different LED. Plug the jst connector onto the leads and that's it. I've not checked the value of the limiting resistor in the 2600+ for the LED as yet, but as they were using a warm white LED, an those are fairly modern, it is likely the value being used will be good for any LED out there that is 5mm in size to fit in the bracket holder. I've installed a slow changing RGB LED into mine as I felt that fit better than a static color.
Flash carts:
No surprise, but most of the flash carts out there are NOT going to work with the 2600+. That said, I can confirm that the Dragon Fly 7800 flash cartridge does work! As the DF cart loads the game up outside of the console, the 2600+ is able to read the DF like a normal game and just loads up the game that the DF has loaded into RAM at that time. Also, the hot swap ability of the 2600+ allows for easy game changes on the DF because you can have a game loaded on the DF and playing, then use the DF menu to back out. Choose another game and then press the Enter button on the DF to start loading the other game. The 2600+ will detect this, and blank out with the Game Load Failed message, but then a few seconds later it will show Game Loading... and the game you selected on the DF will now be playing on the 2600+. So it is interesting that the DF's ability to control the 7800 consoles power on/off function seems to also trigger the 2600+'s cartridge detection routine. 
All other flash carts I have failed to load up with the Game Load Failed message which, is to be expected since other flash carts rely on talking with the console hardware directly to load up and show their on screen menu of games.
So my initial thoughts are that I think this is a great first step from this new Atari in trying to appeal to as many audiences as possible. There seems to be a lot more market hype on this 2600+ release than anything else Atari related I've seen in well over a decade and I do believe this will get non retro gamers back and into the hobby. With updates made to the console FW or outright hacking it in the future, I'm sure more games will be made to work and that will increase sales of the 2600+ and home brew along with games second hand. I see all of that as a good thing and it might signal a true actual rebirth for Atari and interest in the hobby.
 

I own three of New Wave's replicades and they are all excellent! The first one I bought was their Tempest. I bought it during PRGE 2018 I think it was or possibly 2019. I just remember how tricky it was to get it to fit into my luggage safely for the return trip home.
I also own their Dragon's Lair and Space Ace cabinets. Both of those are excellent and even better since the HDMI outputs allow me to legally play the games in their arcade form with a nice controller (I used my PS4 controllers connected via USB to them), on the much bigger screen in the living room.
I think the only other one they have released that I sort regret not getting was the Q*Bert. They even added a small solenoid knocker on it to simulate when Coily or Q*Bert fall off the playfield just like the arcade cabinet did.
They recently had Ghosts n Goblins and a Ghouls n Ghosts cabinets that sold out pretty quickly, but I was never a huge fan of those games really.

Two options are my preferred when playing on my CV. My main option is the Rugger Pad I got from Ruggers Customs. It is actually a Genesis 3 button controller with a replacement PCB in it that adds the 1,2, and I think the 0 button along with the actual button 1 and button 2 needed. Covers a majority of the games for me and. If I play a game that uses the keypad buttons that aren't emulated on the Rugger Pad, then I use one of my actual CV controllers that I added a ball top to.
 

I own three of New Wave's replicades and they are all excellent! The first one I bought was their Tempest. I bought it during PRGE 2018 I think it was or possibly 2019. I just remember how tricky it was to get it to fit into my luggage safely for the return trip home.
I also own their Dragon's Lair and Space Ace cabinets. Both of those are excellent and even better since the HDMI outputs allow me to legally play the games in their arcade form with a nice controller (I used my PS4 controllers connected via USB to them), on the much bigger screen in the living room.
I think the only other one they have released that I sort regret not getting was the Q*Bert. They even added a small solenoid knocker on it to simulate when Coily or Q*Bert fall off the playfield just like the arcade cabinet did.
They recently had Ghosts n Goblins and a Ghouls n Ghosts cabinets that sold out pretty quickly, but I was never a huge fan of those games really.

Two options are my preferred when playing on my CV. My main option is the Rugger Pad I got from Ruggers Customs. It is actually a Genesis 3 button controller with a replacement PCB in it that adds the 1,2, and I think the 0 button along with the actual button 1 and button 2 needed. Covers a majority of the games for me and. If I play a game that uses the keypad buttons that aren't emulated on the Rugger Pad, then I use one of my actual CV controllers that I added a ball top to.
 

There you go... so again it seems that those that ordered more than just the 2600+ are the ones now having to wait. I've seen posts where folks wish that Atari had just sent them the 2600+ first and the other stuff later, but that doesn't make sense as like any company, they are going to want to ship everything all at once vs breaking up as that can be a real logistical nightmare.
I'm sure they weren't quite prepared for the influx of orders they actually received and they likely miscalculated how much product needed to be ready for launch. I can say, that from my perspective at least, it seems the 2600+ has gotten more main stream attention than any of the Flashback units prior and so there is more coverage for the 2600+ making more folks aware of it than before.
 

I got my shipping notification yesterday from Atari. But according to FedEx it is still just a label notification and FedEx doesn't have it in hand yet. So likely they will get it today and start it on its journey.
I know of the limitations and understood that before buying it. But I feel that the only way Atari will provide something better in the future, is if this initial 2600+ gets a strong showing in support from the community. And we don't know what updates in the future might allow.
The fact that it has now been confirmed to work with the DragonFly is also quite nice since that means more home brew 7800 games can be made to work if they just update the lookup checksum tables in the 2600+ so it knows how to setup the emulation to allow for more games to work.
 
 

I got my shipping notification yesterday from Atari. But according to FedEx it is still just a label notification and FedEx doesn't have it in hand yet. So likely they will get it today and start it on its journey.
I know of the limitations and understood that before buying it. But I feel that the only way Atari will provide something better in the future, is if this initial 2600+ gets a strong showing in support from the community. And we don't know what updates in the future might allow.
The fact that it has now been confirmed to work with the DragonFly is also quite nice since that means more home brew 7800 games can be made to work if they just update the lookup checksum tables in the 2600+ so it knows how to setup the emulation to allow for more games to work.
 
 

@sramirez2008 I did see the pics that were posted on the new 7800 gamepad controller. I'm sure I will order at least one when they are available for purchase. 
 

My order # is 7664

@sramirez2008 I did see the pics that were posted on the new 7800 gamepad controller. I'm sure I will order at least one when they are available for purchase. 
 

My order # is 7664

I got my shipping notification yesterday from Atari. But according to FedEx it is still just a label notification and FedEx doesn't have it in hand yet. So likely they will get it today and start it on its journey.
I know of the limitations and understood that before buying it. But I feel that the only way Atari will provide something better in the future, is if this initial 2600+ gets a strong showing in support from the community. And we don't know what updates in the future might allow.
The fact that it has now been confirmed to work with the DragonFly is also quite nice since that means more home brew 7800 games can be made to work if they just update the lookup checksum tables in the 2600+ so it knows how to setup the emulation to allow for more games to work.
 
 

I got my shipping notification yesterday from Atari. But according to FedEx it is still just a label notification and FedEx doesn't have it in hand yet. So likely they will get it today and start it on its journey.
I know of the limitations and understood that before buying it. But I feel that the only way Atari will provide something better in the future, is if this initial 2600+ gets a strong showing in support from the community. And we don't know what updates in the future might allow.
The fact that it has now been confirmed to work with the DragonFly is also quite nice since that means more home brew 7800 games can be made to work if they just update the lookup checksum tables in the 2600+ so it knows how to setup the emulation to allow for more games to work.
 
 

I got my shipping notification yesterday from Atari. But according to FedEx it is still just a label notification and FedEx doesn't have it in hand yet. So likely they will get it today and start it on its journey.
I know of the limitations and understood that before buying it. But I feel that the only way Atari will provide something better in the future, is if this initial 2600+ gets a strong showing in support from the community. And we don't know what updates in the future might allow.
The fact that it has now been confirmed to work with the DragonFly is also quite nice since that means more home brew 7800 games can be made to work if they just update the lookup checksum tables in the 2600+ so it knows how to setup the emulation to allow for more games to work.
 
 

in noticed this as well with the all the release/review videos today showing that in the unboxing part. I'm likely to do the same. But then I'm not sure if I'm going to actually have my 2600+ setup somewhere for use all the time either.
 

Give it time and I'm sure Printerboy will get one made up. Barb would too but I don't know how actively she is in making new covers these days. I want to say the last time I spoke with her just over a year ago, she was clearing out what she had to retire from it. Sad too since most of my covers in my setup are from Barb.

Give it time and I'm sure Printerboy will get one made up. Barb would too but I don't know how actively she is in making new covers these days. I want to say the last time I spoke with her just over a year ago, she was clearing out what she had to retire from it. Sad too since most of my covers in my setup are from Barb.

While I can't quite afford either of those models, I did happen to get a NeoGeo CD for under $200 about a month ago. Now I have a controller and will need to get a PSU for it at some point. I know that Metal Slug and MS2 are available for the NeoGeo CD. Then again, I own the Saturn port of Metal Slug also. Such great games!
 

While I can't quite afford either of those models, I did happen to get a NeoGeo CD for under $200 about a month ago. Now I have a controller and will need to get a PSU for it at some point. I know that Metal Slug and MS2 are available for the NeoGeo CD. Then again, I own the Saturn port of Metal Slug also. Such great games!
 

Easy...
Rebrand the channel as suggested, but you...yourself... you keep your identity as the 7800 Pro Gamer. So basically you introduce things as..
"Welcome to the Atari Network I'm the 7800 Pro Gamer...."
 

Unrelated but I have noticed that the market on the games is now coming down. My collection is now showing a -10k value from where it was a year ago. Some games in my collection for the Saturn for instance that were at or near $1000 have dropped as much as 40% of where they were currently. 
One example is my CIB of Magic Knight Rayearth. I bought mine like 6 years ago for $250. It came with the Saturn game including the full sticker sheet and also came with the JPN Saturn release of the game and the JPN Game Gear version of the game that was NIB. Just about a year ago the US Saturn release of the game was about $800 on its own and during the middle of the pandemic it was nearly $1000. Now it's value has dropped to around $600. 
But on the opposite side of that, some of my SNES CIB games have gone up quite a bit! So who knows? I don't mind either way because I did NOT pay for the prices that any of my games are currently showing their value at.
OH! I am surprised to see that the Atari XP releases for Aquaventure, and Yar's Return have gone up as well. Aquaventure is currently showing a value of over $200 with Yar's coming in at over $150?! Saboteur isn't showing up yet as I guess there isn't any sales history for that one yet. It just shows a "?" for value on Gameye at this time.
I'm assuming this is because they were limited releases and not currently available? Wonder what some of the others will get up to in the future then?
 

I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method.
- The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models
- There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise
- Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles
- The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly
Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wiring from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch NTSC Atari consoles. 
UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:-
The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier.


Different revisions:-
The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles.
Power, Ground and Color resistor:-
The UAV requires power and ground to operate. The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the right leg of this resistor and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping it in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well.


NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:-
The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. 


Audio Connection:-
As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. 
UAV output wiring:-
The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack.


What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :-
The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting.
And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea. 

I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method.
- The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models
- There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise
- Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles
- The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly
Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wiring from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch NTSC Atari consoles. 
UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:-
The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier.


Different revisions:-
The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles.
Power, Ground and Color resistor:-
The UAV requires power and ground to operate. The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the right leg of this resistor and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping it in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well.


NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:-
The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. 


Audio Connection:-
As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. 
UAV output wiring:-
The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack.


What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :-
The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting.
And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea. 

I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method.
- The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models
- There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise
- Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles
- The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly
Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wiring from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch NTSC Atari consoles. 
UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:-
The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier.


Different revisions:-
The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles.
Power, Ground and Color resistor:-
The UAV requires power and ground to operate. The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the right leg of this resistor and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping it in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well.


NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:-
The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. 


Audio Connection:-
As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. 
UAV output wiring:-
The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack.


What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :-
The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting.
And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea.