Jump to content

Trellot

Member
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

364 profile views

Trellot's Achievements

Novice

Novice (1/10)

11

Reputation

  1. Update: Late in coming, but I composite modded the above Atari 2600 Vader board and now it has perfect video and audio! Gifted the system to my brother for his birthday with a selection of great games! ~ Trellot
  2. Thanks for your input, yeah I've also decided to continue with this repair job. We'll see how it turns out! Thanks again for you input, Trellot
  3. Hey guys, Take a look at the following pictures. This board is an Atari 2600 six-switch model and after pulling the 12-pin connector since I suspected a bad connector I found pads missing from some of the pin locations on top and bottom. Any idea if there is a workaround for this problem, or is the board shot at this point? Thanks, Trellot
  4. Yes! Just this last weekend I finally got this system working. I was in the market for the 1.8mH inductor but was warned away from thinking that was the issue from Best Electronics. They mentioned I should try replaicing the the two polystyrene sound capacitors on the board which I ordered and replaced. Didn't solve the problem. The problem morphed from having only static and not being able to play the games to having good video and sound after performing that short. But then on games like PacMan Ms. Pacman and Jungle Hunt, etc., the game would perform a sound glitch and freeze or in Jungle Hunt's case would start the game at the aligators but you couldn't play. So, I then decided to try swapping out chips but they were all soldered down on the main board, sigh! I chose to pull all the chips and socket them for ease of use in the future and it paid off since it ended up being the last chip I socketed, the RIOT chip. Now the system plays great, although I get a little buzzing noise every once in while during gameplay. Not sure why that's happening? I tried adjusting the sound coil and the rf modulator and it makes a little difference but the buzzing just sort of slips in now and then. Overall, I'm happy the results! I'll post a pic soon of the finished product! ~ Trellot
  5. The ones you indicated were? - 78F1R8K-RC-ND - M8172-ND Yes, I will send Best a note on this. Thanks Kamakazi20012, I really appreciate your time! Regards, ~ Trellot
  6. Also, L202 - the schematic shows it as 1.8 or 1.0 mH. If I were to try to find a replacement part for this, what exactly do I need to look for? Not really sure how to search for it to be honest. ~ Trellot
  7. Thanks for the suggestions I will definitely reflow those joints. Then, replace L202 should the static return. I appreciate your advice! ~Trellot
  8. Hey kamakazi20012, Per the schematic for this Rev 16 board there does not appear to be any component in the 100 range. However, I performed a short on L202 on the board and immediately got clear game sound although not without anomoly during game play with repeated echos and other weird things. What would you suggest at this point, change this L202 module? Also, it appears that even after power down and back up I'm getting sound now. What would be the reason for this? Seems I would need to short again to get sound based on my extremely limited knowlege. Thanks for the suggestion, btw! Trellot
  9. Hi all, I've recently purchased a 4-swtich 2600 Vader unit but I only get static noise, no sound at all from the unit. Great video though! Looking for some suggestions on how to resolve this issue if possible. What I've done: Cleaned mainboard top and bottom with alcohol and toothbrush Dismantled and cleaned all the switchs which now work great Electrically tested voltage regulator and power jack (all well within range) Noticed rust under the RF shield and the top and bottom plates had some rust on them which I've abraided away. Tried the sound adjusting coil but got nothing from that Tuned the RF Modulator without success Noticed a rusty base on the RF modulator box so I desoldered it and cleaned it all up (rust on the board underneath which I've also cleaned well) Resoldered the RF modulator but get the same static noise Replaced the sound adjust coil with another working unit (no dice). Should there be anywhere else that I need to look other than the RF modulator? I've read that the TIA also manages sound as well? Any suggestions would be appreciated! As it stands now all is perfect except the static noise I get. Thanks, Trellot
  10. Sound advice. Thanks RickR! I might try a few more things, but yeah I'll probably leave that chip alone. Trellot
  11. Ok, I got down to business today. I broke down my working Atari and started running experiments. First I tested both Atari switchboards on my working unit and they both work great now that I replaced that 7805 earlier today. Second, I went about replacing all three IC chips, one-by-one, from my working unit to my non-working unit. After each replacement, sadly, I only get the solid black screen. On a positive note, however, all 6 chips are working since I tested them in my known good Atari. The only chip I haven't tried swapping is the smaller A203 (4050B) due to it being soldered down. I've been trying to follow this flowchart from Atari: http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari_2600_2600_A_VCS_Domestic_Field_Service_Manual.pdf . But I'm not sure whether I'm taking some of the requested voltage readings correctly. For example, it asks to check that Pin-8 of the A203 IC has +5 volts applied, but for me this pin reads 0v...I then did this test on my working board and get the same 0v. So that confuses me a bit. So I'm contemplating now whether it's worth it to me to risk damaging my good board by desoldering the A203 and moving it over simply to check? I'm noobish at soldering but definitely getting better. Curious if anyone else would do this test? If not, what would you guys do in this scenario? Solder reflow on some of the chips, socket replacements? All suggestions welcome, thanks! Trellot
  12. Alright fellas now I'm getting somewhere. I replaced the 7805 voltage regulator and I'm getting 10-11 volts IN and 5 volts out under a full load. The power jack also reads 10+ volts under a full load. What I get now is a completely solid black screen. Should I check the graphics chip for this? Thanks, Trellot
  13. Thanks rickr for your help on the pics, that was easy!
  14. Hi All, I'm back at troubleshooting this Atari issue. I ordered a few replacement parts from Console5: 7805 +5v Voltage Regulator 3-Pin TO-220 MC7805ACTG 5v 2200uF 16v Axial Nichicon VX Electrolytic Capacitor Atari 2600 VCS DC Power Jack NOTE: I was testing the Atari mainboard/switchboard with a game installed and power applied to simulate a full load to the system, then I remeasured the same points above. Here's what I got: Voltage regulator IN = 7.58v Voltage regulator OUT = 4.72v Power jack = 7.82v I also measured reset Pin-1 on the Micro Processor chip (R6507) and got 4.71v Once I get the parts I will start with the voltage regulator then go on from there. But from the numbers above, would anyone know if this should be enough power to boot the board? Crossbow above mentioned that his board wouldn't power on under anything in the 7v range unless he started high then lowered it. Also, some material I've consulted suggests that the numbers are too low, below the 1/10th of a volt spread +/-, at least in the case of the VR IC. I'll update again when I've swapped out the VR. Should be a few days to a week before I get them due to the Easter break. Thanks, Trellot
  15. Hey guys, Any idea on how to upload photos here? I created a Flickr account but it won't let me post the link. Sorry for my extreme noobness! Trellot
×
×
  • Create New...