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Everything posted by Trellot

  1. Update: Late in coming, but I composite modded the above Atari 2600 Vader board and now it has perfect video and audio! Gifted the system to my brother for his birthday with a selection of great games! ~ Trellot
  2. Thanks for your input, yeah I've also decided to continue with this repair job. We'll see how it turns out! Thanks again for you input, Trellot
  3. Hey guys, Take a look at the following pictures. This board is an Atari 2600 six-switch model and after pulling the 12-pin connector since I suspected a bad connector I found pads missing from some of the pin locations on top and bottom. Any idea if there is a workaround for this problem, or is the board shot at this point? Thanks, Trellot
  4. Yes! Just this last weekend I finally got this system working. I was in the market for the 1.8mH inductor but was warned away from thinking that was the issue from Best Electronics. They mentioned I should try replaicing the the two polystyrene sound capacitors on the board which I ordered and replaced. Didn't solve the problem. The problem morphed from having only static and not being able to play the games to having good video and sound after performing that short. But then on games like PacMan Ms. Pacman and Jungle Hunt, etc., the game would perform a sound glitch and freeze or in Jun
  5. The ones you indicated were? - 78F1R8K-RC-ND - M8172-ND Yes, I will send Best a note on this. Thanks Kamakazi20012, I really appreciate your time! Regards, ~ Trellot
  6. Also, L202 - the schematic shows it as 1.8 or 1.0 mH. If I were to try to find a replacement part for this, what exactly do I need to look for? Not really sure how to search for it to be honest. ~ Trellot
  7. Thanks for the suggestions I will definitely reflow those joints. Then, replace L202 should the static return. I appreciate your advice! ~Trellot
  8. Hey kamakazi20012, Per the schematic for this Rev 16 board there does not appear to be any component in the 100 range. However, I performed a short on L202 on the board and immediately got clear game sound although not without anomoly during game play with repeated echos and other weird things. What would you suggest at this point, change this L202 module? Also, it appears that even after power down and back up I'm getting sound now. What would be the reason for this? Seems I would need to short again to get sound based on my extremely limited knowlege. Thanks for the suggestion,
  9. Hi all, I've recently purchased a 4-swtich 2600 Vader unit but I only get static noise, no sound at all from the unit. Great video though! Looking for some suggestions on how to resolve this issue if possible. What I've done: Cleaned mainboard top and bottom with alcohol and toothbrush Dismantled and cleaned all the switchs which now work great Electrically tested voltage regulator and power jack (all well within range) Noticed rust under the RF shield and the top and bottom plates had some rust on them which I've abraided away. Tried the sound adjusting coil but got nothing fro
  10. Sound advice. Thanks RickR! I might try a few more things, but yeah I'll probably leave that chip alone. Trellot
  11. Ok, I got down to business today. I broke down my working Atari and started running experiments. First I tested both Atari switchboards on my working unit and they both work great now that I replaced that 7805 earlier today. Second, I went about replacing all three IC chips, one-by-one, from my working unit to my non-working unit. After each replacement, sadly, I only get the solid black screen. On a positive note, however, all 6 chips are working since I tested them in my known good Atari. The only chip I haven't tried swapping is the smaller A203 (4050B) due to it being soldered d
  12. Alright fellas now I'm getting somewhere. I replaced the 7805 voltage regulator and I'm getting 10-11 volts IN and 5 volts out under a full load. The power jack also reads 10+ volts under a full load. What I get now is a completely solid black screen. Should I check the graphics chip for this? Thanks, Trellot
  13. Thanks rickr for your help on the pics, that was easy!
  14. Hi All, I'm back at troubleshooting this Atari issue. I ordered a few replacement parts from Console5: 7805 +5v Voltage Regulator 3-Pin TO-220 MC7805ACTG 5v 2200uF 16v Axial Nichicon VX Electrolytic Capacitor Atari 2600 VCS DC Power Jack NOTE: I was testing the Atari mainboard/switchboard with a game installed and power applied to simulate a full load to the system, then I remeasured the same points above. Here's what I got: Voltage regulator IN = 7.58v Voltage regulator OUT = 4.72v Power jack = 7.82v I also measured reset Pin-1 on the Micro Processor chip (R6507) and got 4.71v
  15. Hey guys, Any idea on how to upload photos here? I created a Flickr account but it won't let me post the link. Sorry for my extreme noobness! Trellot
  16. Unfortunately, I only have the one 9V adapter. I'll see about uploading pictures of the board.
  17. So in measuring the power connector on the board with the 9V adapter plugged in I am getting 15.5volts. With the power button turned on, via the switchboard, I am getting 8.10volts. ~ Trellot
  18. Thanks guys. I'll get back to you after running the requested test. ~ Trellot
  19. Hi all, ISSUE: I have an old Atari 2600 REVB board, for the six-switch console, which outputs nothing, when powered on, to my mid-1990s Panasoncic Omnivision TV/VHS unit. If I move the main board + switch-board around, while powered on, every so often the screen turns from the channel 2 or 3 solid blue look to a black screen with some buzzing noise from the speakers. Below are the debug steps I have taken thus far: Thoroughly cleaned the main board really well to begin. (there was some corrosion near the base of the 12-wire harness connections) Pulled all socketed I
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