- Ω -

Let me know what games you plan to film as a before, and I can get you direct captures from the After through my AV setup.
 

You know, this might actually be a decent topic for my first Atari 5200 video.  Sure, the UAV has been out there for a while, but not everyone has one even knows about it.  Heck, some of my TI videos shook a few TI users out of the bushes over the years.  If a few YouTube watchers stumble over the video in the coming years, who knows, they may have one in the basement all ready to be put back in service.  So, I'll also include a plug for Atari.io too!
So I guess I'll have to film a before and after.

I got it and will get you the estimate invoice out later when I'm home from work.
And I was serious above about shipping it without the top half of the shell. If you have ever removed the top cover of the 5200 before, you will find that 75% of the entire main board is pretty much within a large RF shield. So if you remove the top cover, it is easy to just use some painters tape or other masking tape to tape it all down from the RF shield and then around the sides to the bottom of the console to help keep it all in place and then wrap that up in bubble wrap. This way, the controller cover and front controller cover plastics aren't at risk for getting damaged in shipping.
And in the case of these older consoles, softer padding using material that can absorb shocks is best. I've had a few clients send me their 5200s and other consoles using stiff Styrofoam, and then wonder why the consoles arrived in pieces.

@- Ω - I will send you a PM on this with the specifics of requesting services. Thanks!

9th Flight Information and Views
 

I suggest @CrossBow.  Trustworthy and does good work. 
I also know a guy here in Portland.  If you're willing to drive, it could save you the worry about shipping. 

One option for the 5200, is to sent it without the top half of the console shell. The way I do the UAV I would only need the mainboard and the lower portion of the case. That is what Al did when he sent me his 5200s to get the old AV upgrade in them redone as the original wiring had some loose in a few places. He also wanted me to power convert them so they didn't need the switch box anymore. The point was to reduce the weight slightly in shipping, and make it less prone to breaking since the top half is what is usually most a risk. Al used some painters tape to hold the mainboards in place of the lower case shell during shipping. 
Although I don't like the idea as much. If you just sent the mainboard and the expansion plate, I could fully mod up that much and it could be reassembled into the case plastics after. But the expansion plates once removed, tend to pop out really easily after that and I usually apply some epoxy inside around the edge of the plate to make sure it doesn't come loose afterwards.
And @- Ω - you do know about the Sophia upgrade right? While not VGA, it does provide a DVI digital output and you could use a DVI to VGA adapter or whatever you needed at that point. The Sophia is expensive though. And while I haven't installed one, it doesn't look to be that bad. Worse part is where to route the DVI connector. Most seem to route it through the center back through the controller storage area but I' don't like that idea at all and would rather route it to the expansion plate or something.
 

Now THIS is "entertaining"...

Now THIS is "entertaining"...

You've got some great games for your 5200!  I see Tempest, an instant winner.  I'm digging those end labels.

I've seen lots of newbie Atari 5200 owners complain about the spark from connecting the RF cable to the automatic Switch Box that comes with the 4-port 5200 model.  Usually by that step most people have the power supply plugged in to the wall AND the RF Switch Box.  So...for newcomers to the world of Atari 5200 gaming I thought I would write a post on how to properly connect the 5200 to the RF Switch Box and to the TV.  If you get the spark then it's being hooked up wrong.  That's why I keep these:
 

 
The one on the left is for 4-port models and generally came with unmodified (for VCS adapter) 4-ports.  The one on the right came with most other 5200 systems.  We are going to use the one on the left.  Ready?
 

 
This is the first step.  Simply attach the Atari 5200 4-port's RF Switch Box to the back of your TV.  Simple enough, right?  Wrong.  Make sure you connect ONLY the Switch Box, do not have anything else connected to it and make sure the power supply is unplugged from the wall.  We haven't made it that far yet and plugging everything in before you connect the Switch Box to the TV is jumping the gun.  Slow and steady wins the race!
 

 
See?  Now we can connect the Atari 5200 to its Switch Box that should be connected to the back of the TV.  Also, make sure the switch on the Switch Box is in the NORMAL position.  We're almost finished...hang in there.
 

 
This is why I say it was done wrong if you get the spark.  See that WARNING section?  It says "Verify that the Game Cable is plugged into the TV Switch Box before plugging the Power Adapter into the TV Switch Box."  Yep...it's that way for a reason.  Not only to avoid the spark but to also avoid a sudden jolt going to the system and/or the TV it's connected to which could lead to either one or the Switch Box failing.  Remember, this system is almost 40 years old now.  It was this way before and it has been this way for many years.  It still works and is the best practice to keep in order to maintain a fully functioning Atari 5200 setup. So now connect the power supply to the Switch Box.
After doing this step simply plug the power adapter into your wall outlet. You should hear the Switch Box make a click sound.  That's normal.  If it's making a constant clicking noise immediately unplug the system and check to make sure the right power adapter was used.  The Atari 5200's power adapter looks just like the same power adapters used on most Atari 400/800 computers and accessories, and it's easy to get them mixed up.  If the wrong adapter was used, or if for whatever reason the Switch Box made that constant clicking noise, I recommend replacing the Switch Box to be safe.
And now on to something else.  Most gamers know that the Atari 5200 has a controller storage area.  For as long as I could remember I always thought those holes on the sides were for air, you know, to allow for things in there to "breathe."  It took me until a few years ago to finally realize what those were for.  To start this conversation off let's start with a page out of that same owner's manual I posted above.
 

 
See that?  Atari wanted you to wrap the controller cable around the joystick handles and then put them away.  They couldn't think of anything else to do, right? I've flipped through this manual and the other manual and not a one of them mentions what I'm about to share with you.
It's probably safe to say that most Atari 5200 owners do well to have one working controller.  It's rare to have a 5200 with two working controllers and you might as well be looking for dragons in the wild if you expect to see a system with all four working controllers.  So...why not leave the controllers connected?  Yes, you can do that and you don't even have to wrap the cables around the handles.  What you will do is place controller 1 on the right side of the Controller Storage area and controller 2 on the left side of the Controller Storage area, both face down like Atari says.  Now, run the cords through those dips, or holes, I was talking about earlier.  Now close the lid.  Easy as pie!  You can store your controllers AND keep them connected so they are ready to go, all you have to do is pick them up.
I really recommend not wrapping the cables around the handles any more because these things are nearly 40 years old at least.  The cables have very thin wire strands in them.  Bending them over time can cause them to break which can result in controller failure and/or short circuits.  And the less damage that can be done the better.  It is only a recommendation to help prolong the life of the 5200 and its parts including the controllers.  How you care for your 5200 is up to you.  These are simply precautions to consider as an Atari 5200 owner.  It's all about sharing the knowledge.
 
⬇️ 4-Port & 2-Port PDF Owner's Manuals Attached Below ⬇️
 
Atari 5200 2-Port Owner's Manual.pdf Atari 5200 4-Port Owner's Manual.pdf

The 5200’s native controllers are prone to failure, and they hurt your hands when used as intended.
   The fact that you have to buy a cable from Greece and hook up another consoles controllers, though worthwhile, is a giant kludge inconvenience. 
 
   Many players have abandoned this console due to the controllers. I’ve rebuilt two myself. They are fully functional yet horrible. Honestly, I don’t see how these controllers got past play testing at Atari.

They made the movies fun! 😎🤘

Sweet.  I downloaded it. 
I also found Lunar Rescue (with speech) by the same author:  https://www.ti99iuc.it/web/index.php?pageid=database_cerca&archivioid=744#.YOnxY-gzaUk
 

That is a pretty sweet setup.  Definitely worth what you're asking. 
It's tough, though.  I get it.  If someone is a TI collector, they probably have a lot of that already, though probably not as nice.  Maybe selling it in pieces would be easier, but everything here goes together so perfectly, I'd have a hard time splitting it up. 

I peeked in at TI99.IUC.IT and discovered a new port by RETROSPECT!  You can get it << HERE >>.  You can get it in cartridge format, disk format (assembly) or disk format (Extended BASIC).  Also Ciro also made an cool cartridge label for it for you guys that like to burn your own cartridge chips.
 

I peeked in at TI99.IUC.IT and discovered a new port by RETROSPECT!  You can get it << HERE >>.  You can get it in cartridge format, disk format (assembly) or disk format (Extended BASIC).  Also Ciro also made an cool cartridge label for it for you guys that like to burn your own cartridge chips.
 

Princess Froggia...

It looks painful for sure!

 

Hmm…seems he only has original carts. 

JUNE GAME OF THE MONTH

 
Escape North Korea (PDF Manual)
Escape North Korea (Dedicated Cartridge Label)
8K Cartridge Image (For FinalGROM or FlashROM)
512K Cartridge Image (For UberGROM Cartridge)
Editor/Assembler “E/A 5” Version (.DSK image)
 
 
 
 

HI