RoadBlasters Atari System 1 help

[btbfilms76]

Hey Gang, 

Some of you who follow me on Instagram already know I recently picked up a Roadblasters System 1 cabinet,  Its a little rough around some of the edges but for 250 it was hard to pass up, plus i get a little summer project - win win in my book.  

 

Ok so the only think that looks bad is the wire loom behind the coin door, there are some really sketchy hacks going on and I can't seam to find a picture  what its really suppose to look like... Im guessing I just match the like wire colors back but you can see in the picture that there are other bare wires jumping from nut to nut.  

 

Any thoughts or advice would be very welcomed. 

 

[Justin]

I don't know specifically about the wire loom, but here's the Atari System 1 Manual if it's of help to anyone:

 

 

Atari System 1 Manual.pdf

[LimaTek]

I'll take a look at the schematics and see what those wires are doing.  It doesn't look pretty, I hate hack jobs.

[LimaTek]

From what I can see (so far) are they splicing these cables to ground? I think it may be good to trace these wires that are spliced with a multimeter in tone-test mode and go into continuity mode, see if you can get two probes, one on the socket and then trace the cables around the cabinet and see if it beeps.  I'm thinking many of those weird, spliced cables may be grounded to the coin mechanism 

If I were you, I would trace each one of those cables and remove those janky looking cables with some newer cables that are not oxidized in any way, they may be brittle now.  You mentioned your cabinet is in a bit of rough shape, I would recommend doing that once you get a good idea of where these cables are going.

While you're at it, get some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-G5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Enhancer/dp/B00FC4YO60/ref=pd_lpo_236_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1E3GS6GR65RRRW3QA1G3

 

I totally swear by it, it removes any kind of oxidation (safely) from any electronic component.  You can actually get some at your local Radio Shack, too!  

Edited June 20, 2016 by LimaTek

[btbfilms76]

From what I can see (so far) are they splicing these cables to ground? I think it may be good to trace these wires that are spliced with a multimeter in tone-test mode and go into continuity mode, see if you can get two probes, one on the socket and then trace the cables around the cabinet and see if it beeps.  I'm thinking many of those weird, spliced cables may be grounded to the coin mechanism 

 

If I were you, I would trace each one of those cables and remove those janky looking cables with some newer cables that are not oxidized in any way, they may be brittle now.  You mentioned your cabinet is in a bit of rough shape, I would recommend doing that once you get a good idea of where these cables are going.

 

While you're at it, get some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-G5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Enhancer/dp/B00FC4YO60/ref=pd_lpo_236_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1E3GS6GR65RRRW3QA1G3

 

I totally swear by it, it removes any kind of oxidation (safely) from any electronic component.  You can actually get some at your local Radio Shack, too!

 

Perfect.  This is a good start.  Its the only part of the cab that janky.  Cleaned the pot, if it still sticks ill just get a new one and my micro switches in the triggers need replaced.  

[chas10e]

this schematic page 20 looks like a couple coin slots & a couple lamps

 

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/R/Road%20Blasters%20Schematic%20Package.pdf

 

you can get new molex pins & replace those ( I have done "trifericon" pins before)

 

I had bought this crimper & it's pretty awesome ... https://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1468451840&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=molex+crimper

 

it crimps BOTH the electrical connection & the strain relief at the same time ( with some practice )

 

 

I also got the molex pin remover but hadn't used it yet https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Remover-Computer-Extractor-Sleeving/dp/B0094MIS9U/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B8DWR29RGD6VDKR0QA78

 

but should beable to do with a ink pen

 

EDIT one for molex pins

 

Edited July 13, 2016 by chas10e

[btbfilms76]

Had to change the 5k pot on the foot pedal, the car was only going about 70mph and I heeded it to be around 190mph.  Got a brand new pot and wouldn't you know it it the stem was just a little too long, like a hair too long - kinda snug, and the twisting ratio from 0 to 100 was just a bit off.  Needless to say it took me two days to dial in the pot.  It does not sit exactly like to 30 yr old pot did so I had to twist the whole pot about a quarter of an inch in the opposite direction.  This was very important to find the sweet spot because you can't start the game without hitting the foot pedal. We are back on track The car is now hitting speeds of 180 to 190, Ill take it.

 

Next step - to recap the monitor or replace it with a LCD screen.  I know what you're saying - why would you do that?  Power consumption and heat.