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RickR

Guess what Rick is up to today

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If you have some vice grips you can pull that handle off and get under those moving plates.  Use the grips on the white piece and then twist to remove the handle.  Also...there are some slight variants with the joystick molds depending on where they were made.  If you find that a fire button retainer is fitting a bit too snug try flipping it or try another one.  Some of the molds for those make those thicker than others I've discovered.  I could rebuild those all day long.  I actually enjoy working on them.

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If you have some vice grips you can pull that handle off and get under those moving plates.  Use the grips on the white piece and then twist to remove the handle.  Also...there are some slight variants with the joystick molds depending on where they were made.  If you find that a fire button retainer is fitting a bit too snug try flipping it or try another one.  Some of the molds for those make those thicker than others I've discovered.  I could rebuild those all day long.  I actually enjoy working on them.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/236664-replacing-boot-on-controller/?p=3208562

 

 

The service manual shows a tool made of a flat piece of metal with a 90' bend and a groove cut out of the end. Easy to make with a vise and hacksaw. You do have to use a bit of force but do it gradually. You will feel it starting to give.

Make the bend end long enough for the bend to rest on the outer edge just past the ring for least amount of damage.

 

sml_gallery_7415_1341_73135.png
 I think some hair dryer heat & patience helps as well
Edited by chas10e

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Thank you guys, but I have no need to pull the handle off.  The boot and all other parts are in perfect condition on all 4 of these.  It is my belief they just need a really good cleaning and the foil dots.  The flex circuits all look really good, although I do have two brand new ones in reserve.  Once the glue dries, I'll put them back together and test. 

 

A couple of these have different side buttons...they have three tiny dots on the back instead of one big one (per button).  I wonder which design is newer (and potentially better)? 

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I'm going to guess the large single was the latest revision 'cause of the stock# is same as the 3-dot version but with the additional "L" ... it would seem when they were re-engennerring the things they probably discovered it wasn't a main point of failure but worth a try

 

it would be interesting to hear about the things these guys tried til they got to the rev.9 flex circuit 

 

http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/cx52_j.htm#5200Dia

 

 

CO20501 / CO18127 CX52 Triple Conductive carbon Dots Top and Three Dots Bottom Fire button $2.50 ea. (2 fire buttons per CX52 Joystick controller)

CO20501-L CX52  Large (3/16 Dia.) Single Conductive carbon Dot Top and Bottom Fire button, one large dot top and one large dot bottom fire button $2.50 ea.  (Limited supply)

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I'm going to guess the large single was the latest revision 'cause of the stock# is same as the 3-dot version but with the additional "L" ... it would seem when they were re-engennerring the things they probably discovered it wasn't a main point of failure but worth a try

 

it would be interesting to hear about the things these guys tried til they got to the rev.9 flex circuit 

 

http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/cx52_j.htm#5200Dia

I've seen 3 revisions now of the fire buttons...one small dot, three small dots, and one large dot.  Given the info you just provided, I'll bet they go in that order. 

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I've seen three different region markings on my controllers on the bottom shell.  One is USA, one is Mexico, and another one is unmarked.  I have those three-dot fire buttons as well but those don't seem to perform well with any revision flex circuit I have...and I have at least three which I am using a white Rev. 9 flex now.  I've went so far as to take apart the POTs and clean the wafer inside to remove residue.  On some I've found where the brush has dug a groove.  

 

If you can find them, and they feel comfortable, I would recommend the fire buttons that appear more red and mushy.  Those are the ones I seem to have the best response with.  And I have not done the foil trick on mine.  I don't know if I have the large dot fire buttons or not.  I've never noticed.  I'll have to look.  I really need to get brand new POTs for my controllers.  All of them.  And cords too.  Mine are getting brittle.  

 

Can't wait to see how these turn out, RickR!  Definitely keep us posted.

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All 4 are now back together.  3 of them work perfectly so far.  Start, pause, reset, bottom fire (both sides), * and # all work.

 

The 4th has an issue I've never seen before.  3, 6, 9, and # don't work!

 

What games do  you all know of that would test the top fire button?

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GOOD NEWS!  All 4 controllers are now fully functional.  Defender is indeed a good test cart. 

 

These 4 are in really nice condition and they feel/work great.  I have one going to GW, one for myself...that leaves 2 for trade/sale.  Hit me up if you need one.

Damn CONGRATULATIONS on getting them all restored! I have a single good controller because I bought it refurbished from BEST BUY but very cool you did this yourself!  :spot:  :beer:  :thumb:

 

lNEg8.gif

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I've got a couple left for sale. Please PM me if interested.

 

The most important piece of the 5200 joystick, I've decided, is the rubber boot. Finding 4 in such nice shape was really lucky.

Rick, do you still have them? I could use one of them, thanks. Edited by correagonzalez

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