Jump to content
CrossBow

7800 Arcade Proline controllers

Recommended Posts

I searched and didn't see this mentioned here yet so thought I would toss this out there...

Curt Vendel is almost done with the XM modules and slated to be shipping them soon. In the meantime he has also created some new arcade style controllers for the 7800 and 2600. He started offering these around the middle of this past December. I ordered one of these and thought I would share my thoughts and provide some pics for others to see and get an idea about them. They come in both a left handed or right handed configuration on the joystick placement.

I'm a right handed person, however, I've always been used to arcade style controllers and thus I ordered the left handed version controller. In fact, the exact left handed controller that was sent to me is the one that is shown in the pic of both controller types that curt posted on the AA forums.

Control wise it feels really good and everything responded exactly as I needed it to. It is a bit more clicky than I would like in that it is loud when using it. Same for the buttons and I've been toying with the idea of perhaps putting leaf switch versions into mine. 

Speaking of the buttons, they feel nice but are reversed on mine. That is when using the 7800 diagnostic Utility in the Joystick test, Button 1 on the left is actually button 2 on my controller and vice versa. So it could be awkward to use if you are used to the buttons being mapped differently. I might change these at a later time to match what I'm more used to.

The paddle controller works well or at least it did for the game of Steeplechase I was testing it with. On mine the On position is actually 7800 controller mode and the off position is Paddle mode. But I did find it odd that when using the Joystick test in the Diag utility, that the paddle has ZERO response on the other inputs variables and I'm used to see number values move across when using standard paddles in the ports for testing before. But the paddle does indeed work.

Also an odd quirk to be aware of if you should you get one of these, is that on mine at least, it doesn't matter which position the switch is in, but if you move the paddle to the far right clockwise, it will always activate button 2. So in the game Commando for instance, if I had the paddle all the way to the right, then I would be tossing grenades constantly one after the other until they were depleted. So if you find odd button 2 behavior, you might check that you haven't moved the paddle knob all the way clockwise.

I've included some pics of my controller in this post and of the inside so those asking about the circuit on how the switch controls the paddle lines..etc could have a better idea on how that is being done.

Here is the original forum link over at AA regarding when these were announced and additional details from Curt about them:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/285914-new-desktop-arcade-controllers/page-1#entry4175100

Bottom_Shell_Intereior.jpg

controllers.jpeg

graphics_detail.jpg

joycable&paddle_switch_wiring.jpg

joystick&paddle_wiring.jpg

Jpoystick_cutout_detail.jpg

paddle&joy_mode_switch.jpg

Paddle_1&2_firebtns_wiring.jpg

Paddle_btn_exterior.jpg

paddle_btn_wire_Detail.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do too but I've had issues with mine and had to take it all apart tonight to fix the down control that stopped working due to the down trigger wire coming loose. I went ahead and redid most of the solder joints making sure the wire went through the holes on the solder tabs for extra mechanical strength and reversed the trigger wires on the buttons so those were in right order now. Added some shrink tubing to the resistors too for preventive measures. If you didn't look in the pic, the boss post on both top and bottom halves was broken off because there wasn't room for them with the side button places where it is. That could have been done better because I only have 3 screws able to hold my controller together and really if that button had just been placed about a centimeter towards the front of the controller, there wouldn't have been a need to cut that post. The button still wouldn't have sat flush with the sides due to how the case is molded but it would have been more secure overall.

Still I scored my highest on commando when using it yesterday and it does respond and work really well otherwise. Does make more a bit more cautious on spending that kind of money again in the future for a controller though. But I've made it so it should last me a long while now.

 

20190211_220023.jpg

20190211_220028.jpg

20190211_220033.jpg

Edited by CrossBow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be embarrassed to attach my name to something like that, let alone sell one (and for nearly $100 at that).  Someone could write a 'How Not To' book based on those photos, or 'How To Waste $40 in Materials'.  Damn.  What a box of 'fail'.  From poor layout design and construction (destroying a mounting post for the shell for a button that doesn't even fit properly?) to complete lack of wire management, to poor soldering skills (wires already falling off?  Looks like he used general purpose acid core solder - same stuff used on pipes!).  Even grade school shop projects don't look this bad.  And on top of everything, you get a used paddle controller, instead of a new one from Best Electronics.

You did a nice job trying to polish that turd, crossbow, but as the saying goes, you can put lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig (or was it a wig on a pig?).

ad 1.jpg

ad 2.jpg

Edited by Scott Stilphen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×