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Off Topic Venting thread -- (let it all out!)


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Although it has only happened a few times, there have been times where a package says delivered and signed for. But yet...nothing on my porch and my Ring doesn't show any packaged being delivered. 

Then next day, the package is actually delivered?! Best guess I've had is that the delivery driver has a quote or something that must be delivered but then they aren't actually able to do so. Therefore, they make it appear as it if was delivered and then actually deliver it the next day when they have more time?

But that is only a guess. And it has been packages sent through USPS the few times this has happened.

 

See what I'm up to over at the Ivory Tower Collections: http://www.youtube.com/ivorytowercollections

 

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Oh it gets better!  I had already contacted Prusa about the missing printer.  I told The FedEx guy I was expecting two packages.  He replied, "This is all I have."  Apparently he checked again, dropped the printer at the corner of my house and left... WITHOUT TELLING ME.  Two hours later I go outside to check the mail and there it was.  Needless to say I had to contact Prusa again, but I also called FedEx to complain about the driver.  Of course I had to relate the story four times because the woman on the other end of the phone at FedEx was short on comprehension with English as a second language to boot.

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17 minutes ago, RickR said:

If this isn't frustrating enough....wait until you start using that 3d printer!  🥸

Hopefully that missing package shows up soon.  I'm sure it's just a minor error by the postal carrier. 

That's why I bought the Prusa... it's SUPPOSED to work right out of the box.  We'll see!

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I'm sure it will work just fine.  I'm just teasing.  Most of the issues I've had are my own fault in creating my own designs or choosing the wrong options.  And then there's the issue of not figuring out the error until the printer is hours into a print job. 

I still have some VIC-20 stuff to print but I just haven't had the inspiration to do it this summer. 

 

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4 minutes ago, RickR said:

I'm sure it will work just fine.  I'm just teasing.  Most of the issues I've had are my own fault in creating my own designs or choosing the wrong options.  And then there's the issue of not figuring out the error until the printer is hours into a print job. 

I still have some VIC-20 stuff to print but I just haven't had the inspiration to do it this summer. 

 

Yeah, I'm sure it'll be awhile before I design anything.  I've already downloaded Blender but have no clue how to use it.  Eventually I'll try to design a custom speaker enclosure for the center console of my car for my SDS100 scanner, but that is a long way off.

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TinkerCAD is what I use...it's a web-based CAD software.  I found it to be a lot easier to use than any of the other apps, and there's a ton of on-line help/support if you have questions. 

For the printer itself, I ditched the slicing software it came with and use a free-ware app whose name I can't remember.  If you really want to know, I will go look it up on the garage computer where I have it installed. 

As I'm sure you know, the process goes like this:

  1. Download or create STL file(s) for the object you want to create. 
  2. Use the slicing software to convert the STL to a file to direct your printer how to print.
  3. Transfer that file to the printer and start your print. 

Good luck.  Be patient.  Take your time.

 

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I guess I should give you this warning -- the thing that gets me in the most trouble with 3d printing....

Orientation of your print is NOT automatic.  For whatever reason, slicing software isn't smart enough to orient your print correctly.  You have to manually think about how the printer is going to work and orient it before generating the file.  I don't know how to explain this better, but it's a huge snafu.  There are some orientations that are simply impossible to print.  For example, think of a half cartridge shell.  You HAVE to print it flat side down.  If you print it flat side up, there is no physical bed to print that flat side and you'll get spaghetti.  And I'd say 80% of the STL files you download are the wrong orientation. 

You'd think somewhere in the process something would give a warning or error...but no. 

 

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7 minutes ago, RickR said:

"CURA" is the name of the slicing software I use.  I think.  (my brain needs a memory upgrade)

 

 

2 minutes ago, RickR said:

I guess I should give you this warning -- the thing that gets me in the most trouble with 3d printing....

Orientation of your print is NOT automatic.  For whatever reason, slicing software isn't smart enough to orient your print correctly.  You have to manually think about how the printer is going to work and orient it before generating the file.  I don't know how to explain this better, but it's a huge snafu.  There are some orientations that are simply impossible to print.  For example, think of a half cartridge shell.  You HAVE to print it flat side down.  If you print it flat side up, there is no physical bed to print that flat side and you'll get spaghetti.  And I'd say 80% of the STL files you download are the wrong orientation. 

You'd think somewhere in the process something would give a warning or error...but no. 

 

 

Thank you for that bit of information!  I'll take that to heart when I finally get around to slicing the NASA Voyager 1 model.  The Prusa comes with it's own slicer that I believe is a modification of CURA.  I guess you just slide the object into the slicer choose your infil, filament type, resolution and then press SLICE and it generates the GCODE.  I will definitely follow your advice/warning on orientation.   

Honestly I probably will not open the box until tomorrow.  My priority right now is lunch, a beer and a few games of Thetris.  Maybe the beer should come AFTER Thetris?

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On 8/31/2022 at 6:26 PM, - Ω - said:

In case anyone is interested, I made a "Newbie Video" on it, now I just have to see what I can find that's Atari 5200 or TI-99/4A related that I "NEED" to print.

Not that you specifically need to print it. But it would be cool if someone were to design sturdy replacement covers for the expansion ports on the back right side of the 5200? Especially if they have pre-made holes specifically for AV upgrades? Really be cool if the s-video hole was designed with the flat side in mind so that I wouldn't have to use so much epoxy on the s-vid jack to make sure they don't spin over time.

For the TI I'm not sure. Maybe your own version of case shells for the Final Grom and other flash cart type devices?

 

See what I'm up to over at the Ivory Tower Collections: http://www.youtube.com/ivorytowercollections

 

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5 hours ago, CrossBow said:

Not that you specifically need to print it. But it would be cool if someone were to design sturdy replacement covers for the expansion ports on the back right side of the 5200? Especially if they have pre-made holes specifically for AV upgrades? Really be cool if the s-video hole was designed with the flat side in mind so that I wouldn't have to use so much epoxy on the s-vid jack to make sure they don't spin over time.

For the TI I'm not sure. Maybe your own version of case shells for the Final Grom and other flash cart type devices?

 

Yeah, the ports on the back of the 5200 would be a good thing.  Sadly I don't know how to design anything... yet.  At this point in time I'm downloading whatever I find useful, slicing it and then printing it.

On the TI all those items have already been designed and are easily available.

With all the things I've read over the years I thought 3D printing would be troublesome, but so far with the 23 items I've printed I've not had a single failure.  The speed in which things print, especially on ultra detail leaves something to be desired.  The SR-71 Blackbird model I printed took nearly 8 hours.

Blackbird.jpg.e3358c9ce163c7dd7e416726e51a0402.jpg

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