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Atari 7800 UAV Resource Thread


CrossBow

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There is a LOT of info regarding the Atari 7800 and UAV setups out there and I'm just as guilty as the next guy for not making it any easier to find this information. Well, I think enough is known at this point where I thought it might be a good idea for me to create a thread where I can place all of my UAV resources and knowledge in one place that can be found pretty easily. So this thread will contain the links to my UAV install guides and other resources I share.

Let's start with the PDF guides. There are two different guides depending on the install method you go with:

Here is the guide for the standard UAV 7800 installation using point to point wiring for all of the connections. This is a more complex way of installing a UAV, but allow for more freedom in placement of the UAV in your setup and was the main method used for many years.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19GLfVgQDS6ZPKzZn4rjHAAaMT0nxgaed/view?usp=drive_link

Here is the link for the guide if you go with one of the ITC mount board setups. This is an easier installation method I feel and has a few other benefits as well with cleaned up chroma timing for better color alignment, composite artifact color adjustments, and replicated mixing for the audio already in place. The mount boards can be purchased through the Brewing Academy.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1og9jXxrFBnWkmiCOjuYaBaitgUb7waXZ/view?usp=drive_link

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I've also recently come up with a method for a near no cut UAV upgrade solution. This uses a 10pin mini din connector that was used on the Sega Saturn console. As such, the mini din is ideal as it provides for composite, s-video, and the audio all in one place. This way any sega saturn cable sets that have composite, s-video, and audio can be used. Depending on the cable set used, it might not even require any case modification at all! But on the installs I do providing this as a service, I will be widening the RF opening slightly to allow for cable jackets to fit through better for a more full secure seat of the cable into the AV jack. Here is some detail on how that install method looks:

Here I'm using a (Repaired TBA UAV mount) in a low profile install. This install I remove the resistors that would normally be in place where the mount board is located. As the use of the MD10 requires removing the RF modulator, those resistors are no longer required anyway. This isn't needed but I like the way it looks and the mount board pretty much fits right into the original vias that the resistors were in making it way easy to solder into place.

78_lowprofile_uav_mnt_setup.jpg.32be14cb3f7ad2e2833827eeddeb74a1.jpg

Here is an overview of what the whole setup would look like with an MD10 in place.

78_md10_uav_oview.jpg.1078756989115f67c726c8172407f849.jpg

Here is how the MD10 looks when soldered to the main board. It does require a very slight angle so that the MD10 sits flush against the back of the shell allowing the cable inserted to go straight in. Otherwise, it might not fit.

78_md10_profile.jpg.3dc68bbec39b619d839192581f9e295b.jpg

And here is what the setup looks like from the outside of the case. In this picture due to the angle of the shot, the md10 doesn't appear very centered. But it is.

78_md10_ext_rear_oview.jpg.2ed184712b93e704568620f968679c5f.jpg

Here is a detail of the MD10 av jack centered in the pic so you can see how it would actually be.

78_md10_ext_detail.jpg.12f4921daa977649110b4169eb829b05.jpg

Here is a link for the gerber files for the breakout PCB you see in these pics for the MD10 jack. It is designed mainly for the 7800 or UAV installs in general as there are connection pads only for composite, s-video, and the audio. I did create two separate traces for the Left and Right audio for those that want to mess with 'stereo' audio setups. But I also included a jumper pad to put a solder blob on to get dual mono easily. When using the jumper, you only need to attach to one of the audio pads for audio output. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DzNX17Jef088r-ucAQ8NhD_FGaNMth3Q/view?usp=drive_link

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Bob DeCrescenzo (PacManPlus) did design a 3D printed replacement case shell for the 7800. However, I don't believe this shell has cutouts for the AV jacks so that is something that has to be done separately. Same with the power jack, in that with this 3D printed case, the power port sits too far back inside the shell. So you have to either desolder the plug and snap it into the case shell with additional wire soldered back to the main board or use a different power port/plug combo. Bob has stated that he does NOT want to see folks making these and selling them for profit. So he has released these under an honor policy that you only have them made up for your specific console use.

https://forums.atariage.com/topic/320563-i-present-to-you-the-7800jr-case/?do=findComment&comment=5275149

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I will add more information as needed or requested as it relates specifically to the Atari 7800 and UAV setups.

 

 

 

Edited by CrossBow

See what I'm up to over at the Ivory Tower Collections: http://www.youtube.com/ivorytowercollections

 

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Great info, thank you. 

Do you happen to know of any reseller of 7800 cases (old stock or 3d printed)?  I've got a 7800 in a very broken case.  I was thinking of switching the power connector to a normal barrel plug, doing the uav mod, and homing it in a new case. 

 

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36 minutes ago, RickR said:

Great info, thank you. 

Do you happen to know of any reseller of 7800 cases (old stock or 3d printed)?  I've got a 7800 in a very broken case.  I was thinking of switching the power connector to a normal barrel plug, doing the uav mod, and homing it in a new case. 

 

I've added the link to the AA forums where Bob released his STL files for his 3D printable shell replacement for the 7800.

See what I'm up to over at the Ivory Tower Collections: http://www.youtube.com/ivorytowercollections

 

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4 minutes ago, CrossBow said:

I've added the link to the AA forums where Bob released his STL files for his 3D printable shell replacement for the 7800.

Thanks very much!  It is easy enough to put an STL file into a CAD program and add the proper cutouts. 

The main issue I see is finding a 3D printer that can print something so large.  Not to buy, but to use as a service.  I will check it out. 

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