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CrossBow

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CrossBow last won the day on February 14

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About CrossBow

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    Orange Member
  • Birthday 10/26/1974

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What's Up?

  • Gender
    Male
  • Current City
    Ivory Tower (Tulsa, OK)
  • Interests
    Atari, Sega, Vintage electronics and games.
  • First Console
    Atari 2600
  • Favorite Arcade to Visit
    Funspot
  • Favorite Arcade Game
    Sunset Riders / Virtua Racing / Golden Axe: Death Adder's Revenge
  • Favorite TV Show
    Firefly

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  1. Yeap mine arrived yesterday though I haven't fired it up yet to check it out. I can tell you that the entire package is excellent and worth the cost for admission on presentation alone!
  2. ITC# 59 is finally done and published. I've actually had this footage in the can for nearly a month but been so busy with my actual day job and retro commissioned work that I simply hadn't had a chance to edit it and get it online. Finally I go into greater detail in the process I use when installing a UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) board into an Atari 7800. The most critical parts of this video compared to the overview of the installation I did previously, is that I show the most likely way you might want to install one of these into a 7800 without removal of any components at all. I also show my current method for filtering and routing the audio that keeps the TIA and POKEY/External audio volume in balance and doesn't kill the audio from the RF modulator as my previous video would have shown. Links are provided in the video description for my UAV installation instructions and on where you can order UAV boards for your own Atari console and computer needs. As always, thank you for watching and for any comments left that help me improve the channel and its content.
  3. Hmm... I like the design of this quite a bit and can easily see me buying one of these once the AA thread is made for ordering them.
  4. ITC# 58 is finally released! Been very busy with commissioned console work again and haven't had much time to create much less edit any videos LOL. But I had been meaning to make this one for a while and a recent purchase for more battery holders jogged my memory to get this one done and released. Here I go through the process I follow when replacing out batteries on game cartridges. Specifically I install a battery holder that I have to modify to make as low profile as possible to fit in the confines of the cartridge case but I also show you how I do it without the possibility of losing any potential save game data on the game.
  5. Wanted to update this. I got word from MuhMullet that he is nearly out of these boards and isn't sure he will make more due to I guess a lack of interest in them? But it also appears he increased the costs a bit which is why I hadn't bitten on getting a second one of these for myself just yet. I do like the fact he includes the SCART cable so that there aren't any issues there. As to be honest I've tried 2 different model 2 Genesis/Megadrive cables with the board I have and cannot get it to look right. I either get no picture unless I make some crazy modified adjustements to the OSSC or I get a great picture but missing the color green?! I don't think it is the board as the guy making them stated he advises a plain SCART cable that doesn't have anything inside the connecto aside from a cap for the audio output line. Pretty much ever cable I've purchased (SCART anyway), has some PCB or other added components inside them to make them work and look the best on the actual hardware it was designed to be used with.
  6. I'm surprised there isn't a thread about this already as this isn't new. But sometime back in 2017 a UK member at Atari Age came up with his own take on the old Soundby s-video mod that was tailored for the PAL regions and found that is produced really good results on NTSC 7800s he had tested as well. So he began offering his kits. Fast forward to Nov. 2018 and he has an updated version of his kits that tweaked things a bit more and now his s-video solution is nearly equal to that of the UAV's s-video output. As a result of this, I've been installed a few of his boards in some recent commissions for lesser cost since his boards cost less than the UAVs and at the time were more available. Few things to note about this Av board: - It doesn't have any ground attachements on the board itself and it is expected you will just attach your AV out connections to any ground along the main board. - It is S-video out ONLY. There is no composite filtering built into this board so keep that in mind - Similar to the UAV, no components have to be removed from the console. So it makes it easy to reverse the modification if needed - It includes audio filtering that the UAV does not currently include. However, while there are attachements for Left and Right audio, they are in fact tied together on the board internally in a dual mono fasion. So only one of the attachments points is needed. The audio doesn't have to be used if you have other audio modifications you would rather use..Stereo...etc. - It features a 10k trimmer for dialing in and adjusting the Luma brightness for your particular needs - It has the same initial installation that the UAV uses in that you attach wiring from the different Luma, colorbursts, etc to the Magic Knight from the same points on the 7800 main board. - The kit is available both populated with AV panel mount connectors and hookup wire and as bare PCBs as needed. Other options are likely available as well if you ask Magic Knight about it. So yeah, it is good s-video out solution for the 7800 I'd recommend if the UAV availability and recent cost increases aren't your thing. Again it doesn't have composite filtering on it and while it is possible to use an s-video to composite adapter to get composte. It had pretty bad color bleeding using one of these adapters. Magic Knight is looking into the possibility of offering a slightly more complicated board in the future that could have both composite and s-video selected with a toggle switch or hardwired for one of the other if desired. Here is a sample video of the Magic Knight s-video board in action on several games both 2600 and 7800, along with examples of both the Harmony and Uno flash carts so you can see how the menus are displayed through this board. The checkerboarding and audio distortion are not actually present and are artifacts from my camera pointed at the LCD while recording. The Audio distortion is because I had the audio plugged directly into the Mic input on the camera and that is a powered mic input and not designed for line level audio. So all audio comes in hot because of this. Still it gives an excellent idea visually of the clarity this kit can provide. Original thread from Magic Knight that goes into ordering details etc can be found here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/236273-new-7800-s-video-board-available/page-3#entry4155428 and finally attached is my basic installation guide for installing the Magic Knight S-video board into an NTSC 7800. Magic_Knight_NTSC_Installation_A7800.pdf
  7. ITC# 57 went live ahead of schedule and finally has me taking that needed break from hardware work and videos and getting back to playing some video games! Join me as I go through a complete long play of the unreleased game for the Atari 5200, The Last Starfighter! I give you information about how the game is played and some interesting tips I've found to help make playing the game easier. In all honesty, this being an unreleased prototype and only thought to be the final completed game, could be me exploiting some bugs that remained in the game not yet polished out. But who cares, as it is a lot of fun to play!
  8. ITC# 56 went live this morning. This will likely be the last hardware tech video I do for a while as it seems that is all I've been doing for the last several months. Truth is, I've been so busy doing commissioned modification work on other retro gamer enthusiasts consoles, that I haven't really had any time to play any actual games as late. So it was easiest to just make videos of the consoles I was modifying at the time and well...there you go. With that, here in ITC# 56 I go through the process and give you some tips should you ever need or decided to replace the capacitors in your Roland MT-32 sound module. It is pretty retro game related as this module, along with the original Adlib is what really started the sound card boom of the late 80s and early 90s. Therefore if you were a PC gamer in that era, you likely had or knew someone with an Adlib or Sound Blaster card, but all of you were drooling for one of these MT-32 modules like I was! Video features some new custom music composed for my channel and music from some well known PC games that really pushed the MT-32. Thanks for watching and enjoy!
  9. RickR I've sent you a PM
  10. Okay I own both an NA TG-16 and my JPN TurboDUO. I naturally use the Duo since I can play pretty much everything on it. If you want to get good composite and left/right stereo without a ton of money (Turbo Boosters are damn pricey people!!!), then Might I suggest this route? Although currently out of stock... but I would check with them from time to time to see about getting one. https://console5.com/store/av-adapter-cable-module-for-nec-turbografx-16-tg16.html Also there is a member on the FB group who goes by MuhMullet I beleive? He created an RGB amp board you can use to plug into the back of any TG-16 or PCE to get RGB out for a crazy low price as well. He also includes the SCART cable to make sure you get one that works properly. But because I never take my TG-16 out of its hard shell case and only use the DUO, I don't use these options myself. I actually added in standard RCAs to the back of my DUO for stereo audio and composite, and wired in an S-video circuit. That is how I play and am honestly quite pleased with the results. But I do have to say that the composite on the TG-16 and PCE is some of the best I've seen from a classic console of that era.
  11. This game is one of the highlights in my Turbo collection as small as that collection is. I actually have a JPN TurboDUO as my main playing system. I use the Everdrive for the Hucard games and purchase the actual CDs when I seem them for playing back since the CD games aren't region locked or anything. I don't play my Trubo near enough either...
  12. I do too but I've had issues with mine and had to take it all apart tonight to fix the down control that stopped working due to the down trigger wire coming loose. I went ahead and redid most of the solder joints making sure the wire went through the holes on the solder tabs for extra mechanical strength and reversed the trigger wires on the buttons so those were in right order now. Added some shrink tubing to the resistors too for preventive measures. If you didn't look in the pic, the boss post on both top and bottom halves was broken off because there wasn't room for them with the side button places where it is. That could have been done better because I only have 3 screws able to hold my controller together and really if that button had just been placed about a centimeter towards the front of the controller, there wouldn't have been a need to cut that post. The button still wouldn't have sat flush with the sides due to how the case is molded but it would have been more secure overall. Still I scored my highest on commando when using it yesterday and it does respond and work really well otherwise. Does make more a bit more cautious on spending that kind of money again in the future for a controller though. But I've made it so it should last me a long while now.
  13. Well perhaps when you are ready for this, the other new options teased by BennVenn electronics will be available as well. No real details other than he will be releasing it soon for both Lynx and Game Gears and supposed it costs 1/2 the price of the McWill kit. But again no other details other than words.
  14. I searched and didn't see this mentioned here yet so thought I would toss this out there... Curt Vendel is almost done with the XM modules and slated to be shipping them soon. In the meantime he has also created some new arcade style controllers for the 7800 and 2600. He started offering these around the middle of this past December. I ordered one of these and thought I would share my thoughts and provide some pics for others to see and get an idea about them. They come in both a left handed or right handed configuration on the joystick placement. I'm a right handed person, however, I've always been used to arcade style controllers and thus I ordered the left handed version controller. In fact, the exact left handed controller that was sent to me is the one that is shown in the pic of both controller types that curt posted on the AA forums. Control wise it feels really good and everything responded exactly as I needed it to. It is a bit more clicky than I would like in that it is loud when using it. Same for the buttons and I've been toying with the idea of perhaps putting leaf switch versions into mine. Speaking of the buttons, they feel nice but are reversed on mine. That is when using the 7800 diagnostic Utility in the Joystick test, Button 1 on the left is actually button 2 on my controller and vice versa. So it could be awkward to use if you are used to the buttons being mapped differently. I might change these at a later time to match what I'm more used to. The paddle controller works well or at least it did for the game of Steeplechase I was testing it with. On mine the On position is actually 7800 controller mode and the off position is Paddle mode. But I did find it odd that when using the Joystick test in the Diag utility, that the paddle has ZERO response on the other inputs variables and I'm used to see number values move across when using standard paddles in the ports for testing before. But the paddle does indeed work. Also an odd quirk to be aware of if you should you get one of these, is that on mine at least, it doesn't matter which position the switch is in, but if you move the paddle to the far right clockwise, it will always activate button 2. So in the game Commando for instance, if I had the paddle all the way to the right, then I would be tossing grenades constantly one after the other until they were depleted. So if you find odd button 2 behavior, you might check that you haven't moved the paddle knob all the way clockwise. I've included some pics of my controller in this post and of the inside so those asking about the circuit on how the switch controls the paddle lines..etc could have a better idea on how that is being done. Here is the original forum link over at AA regarding when these were announced and additional details from Curt about them: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/285914-new-desktop-arcade-controllers/page-1#entry4175100
  15. Shoot me a PM if you want or need more information.
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