CrossBow

Yeap..RickR got that one. NSG might as well toss up another one now?! LOL

And here is part 2 of my MT-200 Tutorial. Mainly covering how to change the date and time because believe it or not, that isn't covered in either of the two main owner manuals these come with and certainly hasn't been documented online anywhere before...until now. Additionally, I go over the full functions of diskette operations such as using the built in format function and how to copy songs back and forth..etc. Finally I show the music playback from diskettes and jukebox mode.

the graphic of the actual skis gave it away honestly because they were unique looking then and now.

I've done a quick video on this tech before, but after my frustrations with lack of information on the web about this specific sound module, I thought I would do a small sieres of videos detailing more about it and what I've discovered in using it. Here is part 1 where I cover the basics on the functions or the modules various buttons and describe the uses of the ports along the back. Especially important is that I do a basic overview of the hidden diagnostic/test menu that is hiding within this module and I suspect others as well. This is Part 1 of what I predict will be a 3 part video series. Enjoy!

I have that same floor lamp in my front living room! Good taste Rick!

Mogul Maniac

I got 9 of them so Heavy Sixer for me. Realsports Baseball was the one I missed. And while their games were just...'okay' you have to appreciate the U.S. Games label art. They were about the only company to actually feature true graphics of what the game looked like on the labels. And strangely, that might be the reason why i owned more of their games for a 3rd party back in the day vs Activision etc.. In fact I only had Pitfall and Pitfall II back in the day from Activision as my friends had the other games and I could just borrow them when I wanted to play them.

Yeah...once my wife surprised me one Father's Day about 4 years ago now I think?, with my Hakko FR-300 I've not touched the de-soldering braid or my solder sucker since!

600c is too hot for most board work. I usually have my Hakko 936 set between 350 - 400c for most work. On the Colecovision I actually keep it at 280 - 300 thereabouts. The CV uses a lot of leaded solder and is melts easier. Unfortunately, so do the contact pads and traces... I will occasionally put the iron at around 700 - 750 if I have to solder something on a large trace that is likely ground. That is because the larger the surface area you are attaching to, the more heat is needed since the larger area will 'sink' the heat away and prevent the solder from sticking to the pads where it is needed. One way you know you iron is likely too hot, is when the solder sticks to the iron more than it will what the solder should be adhering to.

I forget about this thread... I've two significant updates to put here, though I posted them in other threads on the forums already. First is my installation process for a customer who wanted an AV and power mod done on their 4-port 5200. So here is the video showcasing that, though it mostly just focuses on the UAV installation into the 5200 itself. And then, I recently got a new piece of retro computer tech to play with and have fun and playing with and having fun I have! here is a video on my Roland MT-200 and why it is pretty darn cool!

Forgot to add a few more things about this. when you do get those traces repaired if any are broken, then the areas where you scraped off the solder mask, you need to use some clear nail polish or super clue to coat over the exposed traces. If you don't you leave the copper open to corrosion and that will lead to more issues down the line. I actually just use a thin coat of solder ontop of exposed traces as long as there isn't a risk of anything shorting across it. Anytime you are de-soldering something and you remove the solder and it doesn't come free easily, you need to add more solder and try and remove it again. For really stubborn old joints I usually add a bit of solder to the top and bottom of board where the component goes through to make sure it all mixes in well before I try and remove it. De-soldering ICs isn't the easiest thing so these things happen. Just be patient and methodical about it and you will get better over time. For practice, pick up old electronics from computer stores tossing out stuff that aren't recycling it properly, or hit up your local thrift stores for cheap older electronics like old radios and the like that obviously look like they won't work for a couple of bucks. Good way to get the experience you need without feeling bad about butchering it up, and you will likely salvage some parts you might just need in the future. Also this is what I do to fix these old ribbon cables that start to come apart. And you really should replace it or do something about it, because the inner traces could potentially short against each other if you were to bump it while it was on. There is voltage in those traces going to the main logic in the fear cage box that it hides in. Funny thing here is that I actually machine pin headers for this. Also this repair was on an Intellivision I fixed for someone else as they had hosed up the ribbon cable pretty badly in trying to do their own repairs.

What dgrubb said. Also if you aren't already, you need to actually add a bit of fresh solder to a joint before trying to remove it. This helps breakdown the corrosion on the old solder that can make it holds it shape a bit more than you want and not make it wet properly for removal. Also you will need to get a basic meter and check the continuity between those pins and where the traces look to go on the next nearest component. If any are broken, you can use speaker wire a.k.a. kynar wire to solder to the pad where the trace is suppose to go to and to the leg of the component that it came from. I've had to do this a few times when corrosion from old batteries or when a solder pad has come loose on me while working on stuff. I will say that a decent de-soldering station is a must for anyone that will be doing lots of this kind of work. I didn't use one of years and when I finally got one for father's day several years back, well...it has made a HUGE world of difference!

This is very likely. The main reason for the multiplexer chips on the 5200 dying as well as the main controller chips for the colecovision controllers dying is due to static. The act of plugging in the controllers, can cause a static discharge from your skin on your fingers to the pins on the controllers. This is why the 4 switch 2600s have that foil tape between the switches and grounded to the RF shielding enclosure. I believe there is also a service bulletin for the 2600 where field repair techs were supposed to install diodes off a controller pin to ground to prevent damage to the TIA via static discharge. It was because of static from people just touching the switches and while plugging in controllers. If you're going to be working on electronics and especially anything older than the past decade, you need to have a static wrist strap that at minimum is attached to the ground on the system you are working on. Ideally you are supposed to be attached to an isolated ground just to make absolutely sure, but yes, if you notice in my videos and especially my latest one, I use a static wrist strap to prevent potential for ESD damage to occur.

Years ago...I actually made my own 5200 overlays using transparency sheets. I would print a reverse or mirror image of the overlay graphics through my inkjet printer onto the transparency. Then I would use white krylon outdoor spray paint to coat the back of the overlay with. Then used an actual overlay to trace out where I needed to cut them to use them. Eventually the paint will fleck off from bending the transparency over time but they lasted for several years as I recall.

I actually answered this just now in the Hardware forum at AA. But the top ones are called machine pin type sockets are are best used with IC or devices that have round peg like legs on them. While could use standard thin IC legs in the round sockets, they only make contact with just the thin edge of the legs of the IC doing so. Much better to go with the bottom ones you listed. Those are called dual wipe sockets and are designed for the standard thin legs that most ICs use. They have much better surface contact on both sides of the legs inside and out.

Here is a video I did on my UAV installation into a 4-port 5200. I had some issues in that this particular 4-port refused to work without the 4050 still in the mix. Since I wanted to keep the RF shield in place, it required some modification of the mod board. Bryan's procedures are pretty much dead on so unless there is a need for something with more pictures...etc I'm leaving it with just my video and Bryan's instructions. Bryan's instructions for installation are found on his blog here: http://atariage.com/...ac-in-the-5200/

Recently acquired and repaired an Roland MT-200. It is basically like having an SC-55 sound module with the ability to play midi files jukebox style from a floppy disk drive! Aside from not having MT-32 support, it covers the rest of the early 90s era DOS gaming Midi needs. Also this module works great with DosBox, ScummVM, and the X68 Sharp x68k emulator through the use of a Roland UMONE mkii usb to midi adapter set. For those interested, I picked up my MT-200 listed in as is condition for $40 shipped. It ran another $40 for a brand new set of the Roland USB - Midi cables. Overall, I'm really happy with it! Repairs needed: Settings and Instrumentation was all goofed up. A factory reset from the hidden diag menus took care of this. Floppy drive would light up but not read or recognize a disk had been inserted. Turned out to be a bend pin on the floppy interface connector on the mainboard. I'm not the only to have gotten inside this module. Also cleaned up the floppy read/write heads as they were pretty nasty as well. About an hours worth of time to fix given I'd never been inside one of these before.

You are most likely correct. People who ordered theirs about a week after I ordered mine, got theirs today as well and they were numbered in the 130s. Mine was #116 so it likely will reach over 200 orders if is hasn't already. Might be one of the fastest selling if not the fastest selling Vectrex homebrews that's been released. As for how to order, you have to sent Kristof an email asking for the ordering details. Eventually you will get a reply that will either tell you, you are in a waiting queue to get the ordering information, or he will send you an email with the ordering options and how to pay..etc. My understanding is that he is only able to process a few orders a day since he is a one man operation getting these made and released out. What you get for the price I feel is easily worth the price of admission! http://kristofsnewvectrexgames.comli.com/ Might need to disable your AV if you have one before browsing to it. For some odd reason, his site triggers lots of AV web scanners as malicious. I had to add an exclusion to my Malware Bytes in order to access his site. He doesn't have the game up for ordering on his website yet, but you email him directly to ask to be placed in the queue.

Received #116 in today's mail. Kristof has another serious hit on his hands and I can see this one eventually selling more than Vector Pilot and I know he sold well over 500 of those! Here is a teaser of this excellent Moon Patrol re-imagined straight from my vectrex.

I actually purchase my sockets locally here in town. Only things I really get from Best is just 5200 parts...lol. The rest I find online from other vendors or usually console5.

I'm not sure I have anything to add to this thread. But yes, there was a CC version to be made for the 7800 only as has been stated no proto has surfaced. However, the XE version was converted for the 5200 and I actually have a reproduction cart I bought from Good Deal Games at a previous CGE in Vegas. It looks and sounds great, but with stock 5200 controls..just not very playable. And using a Wico or other 3rd party controller doesn't help much. It was also made known that converting the 8-bit or 2600 versions for trak-ball wasn't possible because there isn't enough cycles left for the game to play as it does plus monitor trak-ball motions. So it would essentially have to be remade from the ground up at this point and I'm not sure anyone has picked up that gauntlet.

I would just grab the refresh kit and replace everything from the kit. Comes with a new 7805 of higher quality over the original, new caps, and a new switchcraft powerjack if I remember correctly. Those refresh kits are great and I've used them on just about all of my 2600s I have on hand and always on ones that I give away to friends and relatives or sell. For $10 it is cheap insurance in a plastic baggie!

New video review of this excellent and technical marvel of a game!

So it would appear that the guys over at NG:DEV have found a few more copies of some of their best dreamcast releases and have them up for very decent sale amounts! http://www.ngdevdirect.com/index.php?cPath=21_23&osCsid=4e2b68e1b27000cbaddd7d2878521a31 I had been wanting to pick up NEO XYX and figured it would never happen since it is so expensive second hand. Well...not anymore! Anyway, I was glad to have been told about this and though I would share the knowledge for those that might not have these excellent games for their DC collection yet.

Guess I never really noticed this forum dedicated for stuff like this. I've done quite a few YT vids over the past 2 years or so. I just completed a new one this weekend with my game play review of the newly released Port/Homebrew of the excellent platformer known as "L'Abbaye des Morts" (The Abbey of the Dead) for the Sega Genesis / Mega Drive. Lots of cool game appearance modes with this one! Enjoy!