CrossBow

That was pretty Epic!

Any headway on this?

Cool! Glad you found it fun and entertaining. Thanks for the sub as well. You will note that I don't normally request them in my videos. This is because I'm not making them to make any money, I'm making them primarily as learning tools in the case of my tech based videos, or simply to show my enthusiasm in the hobby.

Received my physical cart from Sigflup (Thea), today containing her compo demo for the Sega Genesis titled Day Trip! It is a really neat demo that of course showcases several impressive effects graphically with music. Here is my YT link showing the cart and the demo running on my actual Genesis. Information for contacting Sigflup to get your own physical cart copy are in the video description.

Wonder where one orders up new replacement belts for LD players? I have two that were working when last fired up about 5 years ago, but that was 5 years ago and they have sat in my closet ever since. One is even a dual sided player with autoflip and built in AC3 surround via digital optical out! Though I never tested that part of it but have been thinking about it. While the autoflip player works, it sure would make a hell of a noise when it did the flip process.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This....

Can also use a Sega Genesis model 2 power supply on these. That is how I played my Inty II. Literally ran it for 10 hours non-stop for an entire day without any issues and it still works strong today when I fire it up. Near as I can tell, the Inty II does the same thing the NES does. Basically takes an AC current and delivers a smaller AC voltage and current to the console. The power board in the console then can invert this to the DC needed by the system. As a result, you can use an actual AC to DC supply and save the inverter inside the trouble. Hence why you can also use a Genny model 1 or SMS power supply to power a NES without issue. Just thought that might be handy to those with Inty IIs and don't have the original funky AC adapter.

Sounds to me like the openings on the left and right hand side to allow the pegs to go through aren't at the proper width and might be too tight. Might see if you can take a dremel with the small routing bit or use a small bar file and see if you can widen those spaces a bit? NM I just read where you actually removed that and it still holds onto the carts too tight. I wouldn't normally suggest this, but here goes. How about putting in a 7800 cart and then forcibly moving it back and forth front to back? Do that quite a bit and it should bend all pins and wear them out a bit. The other idea is to just leave the carts plugged in when done playing to form the pins out as well. Also you said only 7800 games are tight right? So that tells me it is the pins on either the left or right side where the extra PCB part is used by 7800 games. See if you can figure out which side it is...unless it is both sides and just try to free them up a bit.

Unfortunately the only experience I had with PMP's port of this game was on the PMP collection cart that CPUWIZ put together. As a result, SI is bugged up and will lock up when you play any levels that have the shields. But I do remember it looked quite the part and sounded pretty good. I still think one of my favorite home ports of SI is the one that comes with Y.A.S.I. for the Vectrex though.

Might change out the TurboDuo tonight...haven't decided yet. HAHA. That is about the only classic console I have left that would be hooked up and used often that has a 78xx series regulator in it. Everything else is SMD type.

You should like and recognize the art style! The game was designed by none other than Ron Gilbert! Famed Lucasarts adventure game designer behind the greats like Maniac Mansion (whose style is clearly seen here), Monkey Island series...etc.

Another unfortunate possibility is the owner now has wind of there being possible treasures in there and is getting everything out to start researching value. As an example, in that pic you posted at the top of the page, there is what appears to be a boxed Gun-nac for the NES. Those...are worth some dough. Additionally the games appear to be shrink wrapped? I doubt they would have them sitting out like that if they were for sale as new games. So I'm betting those are empty boxes that were shrinked and set out on the shelf so the customers could bring them to the front to get the actual game for renting. Small rental stores in my area did that all the time when I was younger. In fact, they liked to cut the fronts off the boxes and have those sitting out to mark that they had the game available for rental. Makes me cry now thinking about that...

thought I would provide a quick update. I did change out the 7805 and 7812 regulators from my Intelliivision. Sad to say thought, that while it all works just fine, there isn't much change in power consumption and the because of that large iso transformer inside...the heat is still pretty extensive. Now, the DC/DC regulators did get more warm as I've felt in the other consoles, but you could still easily touch them without burning yourself. But yeah overall power savings wasn't much. To summarize, over a constant year of usage 24 hours a day 365, it costs about $18 to run the intellivision with the 78xx regulators in there. It costs about $14.40 a year with the DC/DC converters. And again, the heat is definitely reduced on the power supply board area, but with that transfomer inside, the heat still builds up.

Made a video last night of my unboxing of the latest addition to my Jaguar collection. I finally grabbed a Jaguar rotary controller and created a video unboxing the excellent package and testing it out with some Tempest 2k and REBootEROIDS game play. It was more expensive than most of these go for on the 'bay but the overall packaging and features on this controller were something I didn't want to pass up. !! Spoiler !! - I really like it and think any Jaguar owner that likes Tempest2k should pick up a rotary controller for themselves or look online on how to make one.

Yes, but I also look at it from the prospective of overall longer life with the electronics. With the heat greatly reduced overall inside the system it can only be a good thing. And...if you saw my game room and how I have about 12 consoles always connected and at the ready, you would understand why even in standby mode, any savings is worth doing. But mainly it was to increase longevity of the systems in the long run. As an example many original Intellivisions died due to the extreme heat from the power supply supply section from all the voltage regulation. Many of the caps in the original consoles were only rated for temps just above 100F, these old 7805s and their kinds get hot. REALLY hot. hence the massive heatsink assemblies on the 7800 and SMS especially. I've just recapped most of these units that I've done these voltage regulation modifications to, and I'd like to make sure they outlive me at this point.

I will try and get you the PN for the Traco converters I used. I actually have more on order including the +12 v version to try and replace both the +12 and +5 in my Intellivisions. Those things get so crazy hot that...yeah...I'm curious to see the results with my Sear's unit. Oh..and it was actually thread at AA started by Mojoatomic that got me started on this. His post was that he had installed one of these on a 2600 and aside from the obvious reduction in heat since these switching regulators really don't create much if any he also stated that the RF video seemed to improve. I haven't tested it on any of my 2600s, but I can tell you that I had no noticeable interference on the 5200 or 7800 that I installed these on. However, both my 7800 and 5200's are also s-video modded and that was the only video output I tested with. I also did this with my SMS and got pretty good results there as well. I did check it with s-video and composite, and again no interference that I could tell with that console either. The only console I modded with a pair of these that I ended up taking them back out and putting the 7805s back in was my Sega Genesis. While they worked really well and the power consumption was reduced along with virtually no heat, they did cause noticeable audio noise that wasn't there before and occasionally some odd ticks would be heard in the audio as well. Since to me and the modifications I've made on my Genesis are mainly about getting the clearest picture and audio, I decided that the audio line level noise and ticks that were introduced, were not worth the power consumption savings. It was discussed that additional capacitors applied to both the input and output voltage lines on these could help reduce or eliminate the noise interference I was hearing on the Genesis, but I had other uses in mind for them by then. I also feel that the physical location of these converters in the Genesis and the proximity to the 2612 was the main reason. On the other consoles, the power regulation is further away from the audio circuit side of things. Update here is the link to the +5 versions I ordered and installed. Allied doesn't have the +12 so I ended up ordering those and more +5 from Mouser for about the same costs. http://www.alliedelec.com/tracopower-tsr-1-2450/70331818/ And here is the +12 volt variant, but again they didn't have any stock at Allied so this is the link to them from Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TRACO-Power/TSR-1-24120/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt6Q9lZSPl3RT%252bMF4BFIELssMYlPXqL%2fEEssJHNzgSFuQ%3d%3d

So yeah, I've been doing this to several of my classic consoles lately with some pretty good results in regards to power usage. I recently did this with both 7800 and 5200, but only documented the comparison of the data on the 5200. Took a quick video of it and thought it might be good information for others as well as opening up a discussion about the pros and cons of doing this?

Replaced the original 7805 regulators from my atari 5200 recently and installed a pair of DC/DC switching converters in their place. In this video I show the power measurements from the original 7805 and from the DC/DC converters. Next up with be the Intellivision once I get additional parts in. View the full article

I pulled the audio for my Pokey off the north legs of the resistors next to the red coil tuner. If you just pull the audio from those two points you get perfectly balanced audio from both TIA and Pokey at the same time. Not sure why this isn't listed in more places and especially from the LHE installation page as it has you pull the audio from the south end of those resistors. Just leave them attach and clip them at the north end and solder your audio wire to the clipped ends and you're good to go.