CrossBow

Should the VCS be considered? I mean yes... it is a console and yes it was released by Atari, but it isn't the same Atari.

Was that a $750 price tag on that CT?! That is.... I don't have words. Really makes the one I have in my collection that cost me about $30 back in the early '00s that much more of a value!

Either way, Bentley won't be getting played much around my collection and not anytime soon as I'm pretty deep into Horizon Forbidden West as my current gaming addiction LOL! But to get back on top, I think my favorite 'brew of Bob's is actually Astroblaster and I play that one pretty often because he really did a good job of getting it near arcade quality on that release!

I played and owned a few Microprose titles on my 286 back in the day. I think the first game I played from them on my buddy's IBM model 25 or 30 was Airborne Ranger. He never seem to really get into it so I borrowed it from him and had a blast with that game. I still have it loaded up to play in Dosbox but simply don't have the controls remembers anymore nor the overlay that used to come with these back in the day to know what does what. Other Microprose games I played and got really good at was Red Storm Rising and F-19 Stealth Figher (It would later be released as F-117A but essentially the exact same game). I own both of those games complete in box. The only submarine games I got into and was really able to understand how to play was the aforementioned Red Storm Rising and Wolfpack by Nova logic. I've heard of Silent Service but I didn't know anyone that owned it much less played it myself. I did play Lightspeed for a bit but it had a different name back then. Hyperspeed I think it was called? Didn't get far with that one. Pirates! was another Microprose classic, but I only found about that game much much later on when I first played the Genesis version in the early 2000s and discovered Pirates! and Pirates! -Gold for PCs had come out prior.

I just couldn't get any timing down for the first level boss and pretty much lose all my lives to her. Couldn't figure out the pattern if there was one. And after that the levels were much more difficult for me at least. Then again, I never really played adventure island as a kid. I guess maybe I just wasn't really able to get into that much to want to keep at it?

This... and Moon Patrol

For me it might just be Bentley's Crystal Quest. I've only managed to get past the first boss maybe twice ever?! It is more a game of frustration for me than anything so I tend to move onto something else honestly. Scrapyard Dog is another that I've never been able to get far in. Not even sure I've ever beaten the first level come to think of it? Ikari Warriors is difficult for me, but I feel that I just need to spend more time with that one but for some reason, it doesn't hold me interest as long as say Commando does which, I feel is the better game between the two.

I've not stated they are harder to get a hold of, but I certainly do NOT see them in the wild either. I can go into any of the half dozen shops in my hometown that also deal in used games and systems and pick up a use in good shape SNES controller for about $10. However, getting a jaguar controller requires me to hit the 'bay for such a purchase if I need one quickly.

Well, I'm not sure if the computer 8-bit line counts but I would think the XEGs would count as a console since it was marketed as a games console that also happened to have a keyboard that attached to it. Hence why it came with the light gun and the two games upon release. Having said that, I own all the consoles listed but do not own a XEGs and only own an 800xl and 130xe for the computer 8-bit line.

I own a CDX. I was able to grab mine loose with a power supply for $40 during my 2004 OKGE when Brian Cherry (One of the GameExchange owners in the Oklahoma area) decided to start selling off his personal collection. That collection included a table that had about a half dozen CDX systems on it. I still have it, and the last time I fired it up, it was still working fine. But they are known for having leaky caps and one of these days I need to be brave to open mine up so I can get those replaced out. The CDX basically uses the SegaCD model 2 BIOS as I recall so it doesn't really have a unique startup to it or anything. It was the first time I found out that there were differences in the CD setups though because the homebrew games Pier Solar and Escape 2042 would not work correctly with their CD music playback on my model 1 SegaCD but did work on my CDX and later on a model 2 SegaCD I now use. My CDX sits behind glass in a small case in the game room as a show piece item along with a few other things and my Dreamcast game collection.

ITC#81 was not planned by any means as is evident by the less than stellar camera and audio work in this one. But, an oppurtunity came up where I thought it would make for a good quick tech video and so in this one, I go through the troubleshooting steps for yet another Atari 5200 controller issue that was not the fault of the controller, but once again one of the pesky MUX controller chips. Hopefully this proves helpful for others if they should encounter a similar issue with their Atari 5200 and controllers.

I just realized I never posted about ITC#80! In this video I actually discuss one of more recently acquired MIDI sound module devices. This time, my MT-300. Similar to the MT-200 but with a different instrument set for tones with the ability to handle many more voices at once compared to the earlier modules. It has now taken its place and currently replacing the MT-200 as the GS/GM module for vintage computer games. Enjoy!

Oh... a XEGs you say? Hmmm....

Slowest my burner will burn at is 8x and I've never had an issue? I've got a few verbatim's but mostly used a stack of Taiyo Yuden's I had but have since ran out of.

I want to say I always had to use Discjuggler back in the day to make them. Since then I've installed a MODE into my DC and have all must stuff loaded up on it that I created back in the day.

Not played the XEGS version but I have played the 2600 version. And we will have to agree to disagree on this one. Again with joystick controls I got to be really good at it back in the day because I could exactly place the cursor where it needed to be and just strafe it left and right in most screens to clear away stuff and each scene I had a particular spot where to place the cursor initially and had a pattern for most of the them along with the timings for the enemies being memorized as well back then. I do find the 2600 version to be very impressive graphically given the hardware and I honestly never even knew the 2600 version existed back then. But at the time I owned my 7800 I didn't pay attention to 2600 game releases anymore either and was strictly all in on the 7800 at that time.

Yes because I wasn't aware of any others to use back then? I don't remember them being an issue with me when I was younger but I really wouldn't want to use them now since I have other controller options available to me.

I disagree on Crossbow. It was on the games I saw in the Sears catalogs back in the day that made me want the 7800 and as soon as I saw it available at my local Service Merchandise, I scrounged up the allowance and mowed lawns to get it. I was NOT disappointed with the game at all and used it as one of the showcase games for how the graphics were impressive on the system to my friends back then. But I never had the light gun because I never knew back then that the XE lightgun was the one to use and always expected to see a 7800 branded lightgun released. As a result, I only played this game with joystick controls and I actually find it to be quite responsive that way. I have tried to play the game with a light gun since, but the lack of accuracy did not sit well with me. However, Alien Brigade is pretty much a light gun required game as that is the only way I've managed to beat that game.

I just picked up the new CD over the weekend. Haven't listened to it a ton but I like a few of the tracks.

I thought the original programmer posted something about this in the AA forums a few years back? Something to do with him programming the game in Forth and that was likely part of the issue but was the only option available to him at the time or what he was familiar with? I'd have to search the AA forums to look for it again but I never play the game. I remember playing it a little on Apple IIe's in the computer lab in 6th grade but never got that far in the game. Kinda like how I could never get past the 2nd screen in Conan back then and now I only get stuck on the 3rd screen these days LOL!

You can still play those games with a 7800 without much issue. Space shuttle is the only real trouble maker as the OMS rockets are activated with the color/bw switch. Since that is the pause button on the 7800 you only have two options to play Space Shuttle. Either keep your finger pressed on the pause for as long as you need your OMS burn to last, or... read up where it states in the manual... That I believe player 1 difficult can be used to turn on emergency OMS rockets. So when I played Space Shuttle on my 7800 in the late 80s (And I played Space Shuttle quite a bit...), I just use the emergency OHMs burn instead of the primary. For Phaser Patrol, just play with the shields on at all times hehe. That is what I do!

Been using 7800s for both 2600 and 7800 since I got my first one in the late 80s. I lucked out with my original 7800 because it turns out it is an '84 made unit so it doesn't suffer from any of the known compatibility issues nor have I ever had issues with inserting games. It won't seat a supercharger properly, but that wasn't something I knew about back then because I didn't own an SC much less know of its existence back then. Same with Tigervision carts that have issues, I didn't own any Tigervision games back then. But, even now I still use a 7800 for all of my 2600 and 7800 gaming needs. With some slight modifications, I'm able to play all the tigervision games and use a supercharger if I wanted.

Thanks for the comment Rick! I should have stated that in many cases, one can usually get away with just spraying a bunch of contact cleaner into a switch and follow that up with some IPA and then the dielectric without having to completely gut a switch apart. But in the case of these va0 Saturn model 1 units like mine. The switch is essentially an enclosed housing. And the way the switch is oriented when installed, means that hitting it with contact cleaner and IPA will just cause it to pool up and not actually drain out properly. That would be an issue all on its own as the gunk doesn't get removed and just ends up drying up over time and still in the way. It also doesn't help that the switches used in these earlier models are near unobtanium to get these days. I've only found on selling on the internet that has replacement switches exactly like what was used, and they want about $55 Aussie bucks for them. Yeah... Australia appears to be the one place the switches can be purchased. I'm sure a modern replacement could be used and installed in a 3D printed bracket or something, but yeah... like the Veccy as you mentioned, the power switches aren't common on these earlier models so if you can clean and repair them, it is best to do so. Here is what it looks like btw. model 1 va0 power switch assembly.

A top 10 on 7800 ehh? This might be tough for me to list. And I wouldn't say I have a particular order for them either. But these are the games that impressed the heck out of me when I had my 7800 in the late 80s and still impress me today. Double Dragon - yes I know the music is ear grating and the graphics could be better. But at the time I preferred it to the NES version as I felt the 7800 version was more like the arcade in the level layouts. Plus some of the levels did have some pretty great detail in their graphics and it was really just the character sprites that were lacking most. Xevious - This was one of the games I got pretty early with my 7800 and I still feel this is the best home port of the arcade game. Joust - Again, this was an early game I got for the 7800 and after my mom and I had played the 2600 version so much, this was QUITE a step up and still great to play. Rampage - Again it doesn't compare as well to other releases such as the SMS version, but at the time, it was one of the games I saw coming out soon that made me want a 7800. I played it all the time in the late 80s. But it doesn't get much if any play time these days. Xenophobe - Again the Lynx version of this just trounces the 7800 version. But between the 7800 and NES versions, I always preferred this one and I still play this game today as I like how quick it plays and find it impressive still. Food Fight - I had never seen the arcade game when I was kid, but I was enticed by the screen shots on the back of the box back in the late 80s when I bought this. I was NOT disappointed and played it much more than I ever though I would. F-18 - Yes it is a sad excuse for being a flight simulator. But at the time I found it very impressive and still fun to play given the graphics and the odd stuff I would try and do when playing this game and had a lot of fun playing it and mastering the challenges. Pole Position II - yes it was the pack-in for the console. But it was also one of the games that made me want the console because I felt at the time that the graphics were amazing! I don't play this one much these days but I sure did when I was kid! Crossbow - well, it shouldn't surprise anyone that this one is on my list. After all it is indeed part of why I have my online handle. The arcade game was always a fascination to me so when I saw this was on the 7800, I had to have it. And I still play this one from time to time even today. I actually prefer the joystick controls with this game because that was how I leaned to play it in the late 80s when I owned it. I still find this game to be pretty graphically amazing on several of the scenes. The volcano and castle scenes for instance were quite something back then. Commando - This was NOT a game I originally owned in the late 80s and would only come to know of its existence on the 7800 years later when I got back into retro gaming and started collecting. Not sure how I didn't know about it back then but I did own the 2600 version and played that a bit. But once I got Commando on the 7800, it is and has been my favorite home port of the arcade game. And I'm quite familiar with the arcade game as I own the actual arcade cab. The 7800 version is very close to the arcade gameplay and ups it a bit with the hidden POW spots to find. However, I've found at least one spot where it is easy to just farm enemies over and over so high scores on this game are stupid easy to amass. Still, I play this quite a bit and it is sure to be played at least once, anytime the 7800 is powered up for any extended session of play. So I guess I lied and I did kinda make this as a top ten with Crossbow and Commando being my two top faves for the system of original releases. The 7800 is easily my favorite Atari console I own and my second favorite console to play and collect for next to my Sega Genesis.

This story starts a few years ago when I powered on my model 1 Sega Saturn and played a game for a bit and then powered the console off and back on to switch to a different game. But to my horror I discovered some strange horizontal white lines scrolling upwards on the screen? I powered the console off/on again and the lines were still there only now there were a lot more of them and they were scrolling much faster. Additional power off/on cycles would only cause the lines to change thickness and motion and scrolling rate. I don't have a picture of my actual console doing this, but here is one on youtube that demonstrates the issue very well. It is best to see it in motion anyway to get an idea of how annoying it really is.. Reading up on the issue you find a few different fixes for the issue or no fixes at all. The most common fix thought to correct it, is to replace the caps in the PSU board. Saturn consoles have their PSUs internal inside them. Luckily they are all throug hole caps to not that big a deal to replace. But you have to make sure when ordering a cap kit, that you order the right one for your Saturn as it seems there over a half dozen different PSUs used on the various Saturn models and they all have different component layouts, different amount of caps needed, and of course different values of caps used. So that was the first thing I did was to recap my PSU. And at first I thought things were good... but nope. The issue would happen after about 10min of playing a game and when powering cycling the console again to change games, the white lines would be back?! Keep in mind the actual console continues to play normally but visually it is less than ideal. The next common fix for this issue that has worked for a few people, is to replace the main PWM switcher that is on the PSU boards. There were two main types used in the Saturns depending on the country it was being used in. For instance in Japan and NA. The PWM could handle between 100 - 120v. In Europe it was for their 220-240v ranges. The exact PWMs used are difficult to find but I did some sleuthing on this over a year ago and found a modern drop in replacement that can be used in all regions as it can handle between 100 - 240v by itself. These can be purchased from console5 if needed here: https://console5.com/store/top224yn-saturn-power-supply-pwm-75w-voltage-regulator-replacement-for-top102yai.html But sadly once again in my case, it was not to be the fix for mine. So I've just kinda lived with the issue now. Until last night when I remembered something and then tested it a bit. Remember when I said that powering off/on would cause the lines to be different each time on my console? Well, I also discovered that if I could quickly turn the console off/on enough to cause the screen to dim for a sec but not enough to cause the saturn or the game to actually shut off, that sometimes those lines would go away?! That got me to thinking... which, in all honesty can be a bad idea for me sometimes. The power switch changes the conditions depending on how quickly I'm actuating it. Or maybe the force used to power it on and off? So... I decided to take the switch apart. This was NOT an easy task. The switches used on these earlier model 1 units I believe are different than later made models. It has an additional power protection component soldered onto the AC input wires on the side of the switch. Wrapped with a bit of yellow electrical tape, and then a blue/green translucent colored rubber cap that was draped over it to protect everything. Once you carefully remove all of this (As you will want to reuse at least the rubber cap). Then you have to pry apart the steel housing that covers the top portion of the switch. Once you have done this, you have to be careful of 2 things. Both of which are springs that will do what springs do best. They will likely shoot out somewhere and you won't find them again if you aren't careful. My wife may or may not have a non functioning ball point pin in her pen holder as I type this... Once I got this figured out and was able to study the switch. I then found old yellowed colored grease inside the switch along with a bit of black carbon residue mixed into the grease. Similar to what we see on colecovision and atari toggle switches. I cleaned all of this gunk out and put it back together with some new dielectric grease. Once I got that switch back together. I crossed my fingers and turned on the Saturn. No white lines! But I couldn't get excited about it just yet because what I didn't mention is that most of the time on the first power on, the Saturn doesn't have those lines. It is only after it has been on for a bit and then I power cycle it that the lines would appear. So I played some Bulk Slash and got through a few missions and powered the console off to switch games. Turned it back on... and still no white lines?! This is a good sign. I continued to play several different games for at least another hour and half power cycling the console well over a dozen times in the process and those pesky white lines have not come back. So it would seem that power switches are another potential source for the white lines issue on Saturn consoles. I'm not sure why the first power on would always be good and it was only successive power on attempts after that would cause this, but for now it seems those issues might finally be corrected. I will have to play a bit more Saturn games to find out. What a chore... 😉 hehe. Here are some pics of the insides of my Saturn for those that might be curious. I recapped the entire thing several years ago and at the time only radial caps were in the kits so I had to install them in a similar manner to how it is done on Gamegears when replacing surface mount like caps with through hole radial type. And, it has a Hi-Saturn region free BIOS installed as well. Even with the Rhea configured to report every game as being NA/US, the Japanese games still wouldn't load right and would require me to use my Acton Replay cart to bypass. But as that cart becomes more and more finicky to use, I opted to just install the region free since in this model Saturn, it is literally a drop in replacement chip.