CrossBow
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Posts posted by CrossBow
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Wow, the UAV looks really nice. Do you happen to know if the wiring gets any easier if you skip the S-Video out and just do composite? I guess the inputs would all remain the same, just skip the outputs you don't need, eh?
I will be honest and state that I've not installed a UAV onto a 2600 yet. But others have and stated it looks great. As for how much simpler, I'm not entirely sure. I can tell you that the UAV is a replacement encoder, so as such you still have to wire all the needed lines to the UAV board for it to process that video correctly. But yes, if you only need composite output from the UAV, then you would only need two wires from the output side of the UAV. Composite and ground.
The UAV does NOT handle audio though, so that has to be done separately. Bryan (Who makes the UAV), also created an audio amp replacement board that is very easy to install. But sadly when I checked with him on this, he stated he didn't have any made up and not making more because I believe he plans to incorporate the audio into the newer revision of UAV he is also working on.
I hope that on the resistors you "removed" that didn't completely remove them? All that is needed is to simply cut one of the legs off the resistors to disable them from the circuit. This way if you need them back in place (Like would be needed when putting in other mods that require them or if you wish to take it back to stock condition), then you only have to apply a small dollop of solder to the leg you cut and you have it repaired back in circuit again.
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Very possible. Osgeld is basically installing a board that has a completely different encoder on it for the video. So it takes the signals from the TIA and then puts them through his buffer instead and then you get nice video. So I'm sure his mod board setup doesn't have this interference.
I'm not sure the costs of Osgeld's modded 2600s, but a UAV only costs about $25 shipped and I know it produces excellent results as well. Additionally, you have the output jacks already in place on that 2600, So with the UAV you would only have to solder maybe a few more wires off the 2600 to the UAV and then solder the current wires off your RCA jacks to the UAV as well.
It is too bad you are in Canada because I'd be happy to look at it for you and see if I can clean it up or even offer a UAV install replacement on it for you. But as you said, you are in Canada and the shipping would likely be pretty scary to say the least.
I'm located in the middle of the US and shipping a 7800 in a good sized box to ensure it is well protected costs me from $23 - $28 USD as it is...
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Well..now see the original 7805 is only a .5amp rated regulator because that was all that was needed. If you add components to a console, it will draw and require more current to provide it all the juice it needs. This is why I advise that any modded 2600 and 7800 have their 7805s replaced with higher current versions of at least 1amp. It might be I've not seen of these issues because I use my 7800 for all my 2600 and 7800 game playing, but it could also be because I've replaced out the 7805 with a 1amp dc-dc converter to provide better regulated power.
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More info here and a demo of the games I've gotten to work on it.
https://youtu.be/Zlva0b7ZiRk?list=PLypzYHeVZt9mmepsDRL-2oBIemEfp0XdC
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If the glue is in fact hot glue...then you only need to use Alcohol and it will soften the hot glue and allow you essentially just peel it off he boad. But you really have to saturate it in there and make sure it seeps in under the glue.
As for the kind of wire, I also use basically the same kind of wire. I don't think the wire is to blame so much as a loose solder connection or possibly a break in the wiring that can't be seen within the insulation.
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Again the fact that the image changes at all when you touch or move the wires, is sure proof there is a loose connection. Or..worse...there could be a break in the wiring within the insulation itself. But i'm inclined to think that one of the connections and most likely the video connection on the perfboard is the one to be looking at first.
I do use solid core wire...sometimes. But if you plan to service the system much in the future, then it is best to use a larger gauge stranded copper wire instead to give yourself more flexibility. Or...like I do, I actually use header pins and connectors so that I can quickly unplug stuff to work on it. Because of that, I do use thin solid core kynar wire for connections that won't need to be moved around, and always make sure that my power and ground wire is thick gauge for best connections. Also important to run the video and power separate if at all possible in that I keep their wiring away from each other to prevent any noise that way. Although it isn't such an issue with DC voltages like it would be with AC voltage. That is the other reason I try and attach my video ground off the same gound as the TIA. If you just use the ground around the edge of the PCB, you do stand a risk of some non filtered noise running along that plane. Also not a bad idea to keep the ground separate from the audio and video since the audio actually uses AC voltage signals.
The other more expensive option (and the one I would actually choose...) would be to rip that out and install a UAV in it instead.
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I answered this over on the AA forums as well..but here is what I stated:
"Simply put the Mateos 16 in 1 (8 in 1 in 144k mode) is the most compatible flash multi-cart available for the 7800 currently. I love mine! It isn't the easiest multi-cart I've worked with since:
- it requires the additional burner/dumper module to be plugged onto it and then into your computer in order to update the data on it
- it is finicky to get working on anything newer than windows 7 without some old school DOS command knowledge
- you are restricted due to flash space as you can only store 16 games at once if they are 128k or less in size, or 8 games max if you have the cart set to 144k mode for larger games
Physically the cart is built well with proper components, but some might find the overall bulk of the cartridge to be bit much. Especially if you want to house it in an old 7800 cartridge shell as it requires cutting the cart shell to fit it in properly, or modification of the mateos cart itself for it to fit better in a standard 7800 shell.
It is supposedly possible to mix and match roms of different sizes to be able to mix both 128k and lesser games in addition to 144k games and have more than the 8 game limitation, but I believe it to be most stable if you just stick to only 16 games or 8 games depending on the mode you have it set to. Additionally, it can't accept anything larger than 144k so any newer homebrews in the future that use larger bank switch methods etc. obviously can't be loaded onto this cart. But so far there are only a small select homebrews or WIP games where this would be an issue. But at least for everything I wanted to play and new WIP homebrews I've been interested in checking out, Mateos cart for the 7800 has been excellent! It is also quite affordable as well when compared to other flash carts for other systems.
So again, for my needs it has been great and works just as I expect and need it to and until something better comes along that has a better track record of working, it is the best option available as a flash multi-cart for the 7800."
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WAIT...NSG has a Polaris cart?! That one and quite a few other TV carts have eluded me for so long now....ugh...
- TrekMD and nosweargamer
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Console5.com also has replacement dome switches are supposed to be superior to the originals. I know they offer not only the standard 3 leg version, but also a 4 leg version that can be used and I believe that one is better if only because the extra leg provides an extra support stress location for the button when it is depressed and helps to even that out more. I've also used them to great success in replacing the original dome contact switch on the Intellivision reset. Only since the originals were press fit into slots along the side of the reset contact point, i will use the 4 leg versions of the dome contacts and actually tack-solder the leg ends onto the ground points around the reset area.
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As I said, it could have also been when I used the bridge on the edge of the screen from somewhere else, But I thought it was from a spot in the blue maze. Been a long time since I did it and I used to have more fun messing with Adventure in this manner than I did playing the game itself at the time! I would always find ways to trap the bat in castles and the like so that he was never an issue throughout the game. And I can remember when i would lock him up in a castle and then suddenly towards the end of the game or really far into it, he would suddenly appear and I would wonder how in the hell he did it if I had everything removed in the castle that allowed him to get out?
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Do you know where to put the bridge to get to the secret room that way?
could have sworn I was able to do it by using the bridge on the bottom of the maze in the center portion of it. Then again, it could have been by using the bridge in one of the castles too. Been a while since I did it and again I never knew it was a hidden room or easter egg back in the day. I never even figured out it was spelling anything at the time LOL.
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My first guess is that the ground itself isn't making a good connection. you said if you press on them just right, the picture clears up? As for them being zip tied together, that isn't an issue and is good that they were trying to keep them nice and tidy.
I'm thinking the video out wire on the top center of the perfboard might not be making a good connection and this is why when you held it just so, the picture cleared up. Try just moving that one around a bit and see if it helps? If it does, then that wire needs to be hit with some more solder and heat most likely to secure it in place on the perf board better.
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Well..when I mod consoles, I try and put the mod boards within the original confines of the logic. Thereby they are able to be covered in the original RF shield that the system came in. Now having said that, I've also heard some people state that an AV mod looked better when they put the RF shielding on the system but put the AV mod board outside of the shielding. Again, if you can move the system around and the interference pattern changes in the process, that is definitely interference causing it. Only other way to try and shield the mod board if you haven't the original RF in place, would be to add wire and move it so that it sits under the main pcb. At least that way, you are shielding it by using the main pcb as the shield itself.
Also take some foil and lightly wrap it around the cart to see if that helps. If so, that indicates the issue is the lack of shielding on the homebrew carts.
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Worst damage that Frying would do is just wear out the switch that much quicker. All you are actually doing is changing starting registers that the game relies on for proper gameplay. So when you fry you modify these starting points in the code and that is what causes the games to freak out.
You can fry Adventure and discover the Warren Robinett room that way. Also possible to do it using the bridge on the bottom screen of the maze area, but you will get stuck permanently in the room doing this. Funny thing is I never figured out that it actually spelled anything as a kid. Wasn't until I was much older and discovered the old 2600 Nexus and IRC chats etc that I even knew that was a hidden room. I just mistook it for glitched graphics because I did something not expected similar to frying would do.
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Since you said it only happens on some homebrews, I'm inclined to agree with your guess about the lack of shielding inside the homebrew carts. Could be they are picking up something in the RF range that is causing the video interference.
have you tried to move the console around or perhaps other crazy stuff like tilt it on its side with a game in it and such to see if you can make those lines more around and change? If you can, that confirms it is outside RF causing an issue.
Also was the RF shield removed from the 2600 when it was modded? I always..ALWAYS tried to keep the RF shield in place as the RF modulator isn't the only thing to get affected by unwanted RF noise. Even the newer mod boards can be affected by outside RF radiation.
Although we don't use analog over the air signals anymore or RF modulators, we actually use more RF in the world today and all around us than we ever have before. Bluetooth, your Wi-Fi in your house..etc..all exist in the RF ranges. Even your cell phone, that is why we had to get rid of the old analog signals, because we needed them for other stuff. It is also why many of the older consoles tend to look even more on modern displays. Newer displays do NOT have the filters and such in them that our old TVs did to help filter that crap out of the video signal.
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I never owned an NES bitd, but my step brother who came to our house every other week, did and he frequently brought it with him. When it was in the house, that was all we would play on. When it wasn't I went back to my 2600 games and eventually to my 7800 when I got that in '88.
But the truth is that the current largest generation of collectors now getting into the hobby are the NES generation that came after many of us here. So it doesn't surprise me that the NES and SNES have the largest presence at the shows I've attended including my own events I was hosting for over 10 years locally.
It will be a VERY weird experience for me when I start to see things like the PS2, DC, and original XBOX become the dominant represented systems at these shows in the not all that distant future.
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Out of curiosity, what retro systems get the most attention at these shows?
Currently that would be the NES by a huge margin... sad to say...
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Video #43 was uploaded a few days ago, but thought I would show something pretty cool. I recently received a VecFever cart to my collection and it has a cool Jukebox that contains over 3 hours of veccy chip tune music! So, I did what any chip tune, veccy, loving retro guy did and captured the whole set list in real time on video! My Vectrex in this video features the Buzz Off! kit from and V.A.T. (Vectrex Audio Tap) that allows for clean audio output from the vectrex. Both of these are available from Obtanium-Gaming who sells his products via Ebay. This is my longest video to date and took quite a while to create the track listing in the video description as most of these tunes have only a second or less of space between them.
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I own a pair of these with Boo's all over them. I really like them! But they aren't very comfortable for me to wear more than a few hours. Too bad Nintendo didn't do a marketing deal with Asics...
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I never realized until now just how out of proportion those barrels are to the rest of the game graphics! Those barrels must be like 25ft tall!
- RickR and nosweargamer
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Video # 42 is released. This one is a mix of both my passion for midi and classic games. This video is a compilation of midi files I've found for mostly Sega Saturn games that have been sequenced. Here I play them back in really old school style using the old DOS midi playback program known as Mega Mid. This audio and video was captured in real time through my PC from my Roland MT-200 with all audio unfiltered and unedited other than normalizing the audio for consistent volume as many midi files can have their volumes set all over the place between songs. This would probably be more interesting to Dallas since he actually sequences songs himself, but still these are some wonderful sounding compositions through my MT-200 sound module.
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If you can contact the author to see if about getting one...
I highly recommend getting the home-brew "Weltenschlächter" from Luch soft!
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Video #41 has been released! In this video I go over the box contents and game play for the excellent home-brew game for the Atari Lynx titled "Weltenschlächter". It has been said quite a lot before that this game compares to Yar's Revenge and that is somewhat true, but then YAR didn't have a bunch of eneyships coming at him all at once at high speed where some require more than one hit to take them out either! It is really fun game and my first purchase (Hopefully not my last) of a Luch Soft title.
Enjoy!
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Its possible. Plays fine an NTSC system.
I'm going to take a guess...the Japanese game shown in Max's post is either Puyo Puyo or Phantasy Star 2. Girl throws it off. Japs always did draw cute characters.
Yes that is Puyo Puyo...rebadged as Dr, Robotnik's Mean Bean machine here in the US.
Also... regarding your MD cart. I've ran across this before. It would seem that many Canadian released games seem to have combos of MD and Genesis labeling. I've seen the Sonic 2 MD cart even here in OK and wondered what the heck. The interesting thing is that there isn't a notch cut out on the cart and I thought all the European and JPN released games had that notch for the cart lock in feature?
RF Interference on Composite modded 2600? Homebrews only
in Hardware Hacking
Posted
Defintely a grounding issue... I can tell from when you are touching the side of it there at the beginning. Or at least that is what it looks like to me.