CrossBow
-
Posts
1,378 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
31
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Store
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by CrossBow
-
-
600c is too hot for most board work. I usually have my Hakko 936 set between 350 - 400c for most work. On the Colecovision I actually keep it at 280 - 300 thereabouts. The CV uses a lot of leaded solder and is melts easier. Unfortunately, so do the contact pads and traces...
I will occasionally put the iron at around 700 - 750 if I have to solder something on a large trace that is likely ground. That is because the larger the surface area you are attaching to, the more heat is needed since the larger area will 'sink' the heat away and prevent the solder from sticking to the pads where it is needed.
One way you know you iron is likely too hot, is when the solder sticks to the iron more than it will what the solder should be adhering to.
-
I forget about this thread... I've two significant updates to put here, though I posted them in other threads on the forums already.
First is my installation process for a customer who wanted an AV and power mod done on their 4-port 5200. So here is the video showcasing that, though it mostly just focuses on the UAV installation into the 5200 itself.
And then, I recently got a new piece of retro computer tech to play with and have fun and playing with and having fun I have! here is a video on my Roland MT-200 and why it is pretty darn cool!
-
Forgot to add a few more things about this.
when you do get those traces repaired if any are broken, then the areas where you scraped off the solder mask, you need to use some clear nail polish or super clue to coat over the exposed traces. If you don't you leave the copper open to corrosion and that will lead to more issues down the line. I actually just use a thin coat of solder ontop of exposed traces as long as there isn't a risk of anything shorting across it.
Anytime you are de-soldering something and you remove the solder and it doesn't come free easily, you need to add more solder and try and remove it again. For really stubborn old joints I usually add a bit of solder to the top and bottom of board where the component goes through to make sure it all mixes in well before I try and remove it.
De-soldering ICs isn't the easiest thing so these things happen. Just be patient and methodical about it and you will get better over time. For practice, pick up old electronics from computer stores tossing out stuff that aren't recycling it properly, or hit up your local thrift stores for cheap older electronics like old radios and the like that obviously look like they won't work for a couple of bucks. Good way to get the experience you need without feeling bad about butchering it up, and you will likely salvage some parts you might just need in the future.
Also this is what I do to fix these old ribbon cables that start to come apart. And you really should replace it or do something about it, because the inner traces could potentially short against each other if you were to bump it while it was on. There is voltage in those traces going to the main logic in the fear cage box that it hides in. Funny thing here is that I actually machine pin headers for this. Also this repair was on an Intellivision I fixed for someone else as they had hosed up the ribbon cable pretty badly in trying to do their own repairs.
-
What dgrubb said. Also if you aren't already, you need to actually add a bit of fresh solder to a joint before trying to remove it. This helps breakdown the corrosion on the old solder that can make it holds it shape a bit more than you want and not make it wet properly for removal. Also you will need to get a basic meter and check the continuity between those pins and where the traces look to go on the next nearest component. If any are broken, you can use speaker wire a.k.a. kynar wire to solder to the pad where the trace is suppose to go to and to the leg of the component that it came from. I've had to do this a few times when corrosion from old batteries or when a solder pad has come loose on me while working on stuff.
I will say that a decent de-soldering station is a must for anyone that will be doing lots of this kind of work. I didn't use one of years and when I finally got one for father's day several years back, well...it has made a HUGE world of difference!
-
I'm wondering if it's me who's causing the problem, especially now. My gameroom is carpet, I shuffle around in socks and it's winter with cold dry air. I wonder if I should being wearing an antistatic wrist strap or something when I touch consoles. Maybe that's what happened yesterday when I apparently killed a chip or chips in a six switch I was working on. Maybe I killed it with static electricity.
This is very likely. The main reason for the multiplexer chips on the 5200 dying as well as the main controller chips for the colecovision controllers dying is due to static. The act of plugging in the controllers, can cause a static discharge from your skin on your fingers to the pins on the controllers. This is why the 4 switch 2600s have that foil tape between the switches and grounded to the RF shielding enclosure. I believe there is also a service bulletin for the 2600 where field repair techs were supposed to install diodes off a controller pin to ground to prevent damage to the TIA via static discharge. It was because of static from people just touching the switches and while plugging in controllers. If you're going to be working on electronics and especially anything older than the past decade, you need to have a static wrist strap that at minimum is attached to the ground on the system you are working on. Ideally you are supposed to be attached to an isolated ground just to make absolutely sure, but yes, if you notice in my videos and especially my latest one, I use a static wrist strap to prevent potential for ESD damage to occur.
-
Years ago...I actually made my own 5200 overlays using transparency sheets. I would print a reverse or mirror image of the overlay graphics through my inkjet printer onto the transparency. Then I would use white krylon outdoor spray paint to coat the back of the overlay with. Then used an actual overlay to trace out where I needed to cut them to use them. Eventually the paint will fleck off from bending the transparency over time but they lasted for several years as I recall.
- RickR and Starbuck66
-
2
-
I have a question about sockets. In looking online to purchase some, there seems to be different widths. I'm pretty sure I need the wider ones but some list things about having round pins as opposed to not. The only thing I know for sure is that I need 40 pin and 24 pin sockets for the 2600. Other than that I need a little guidance. For instance this listing on amazon canada
shows round pins but this listing for 24 pin sockets doesn't
A close up of both shows small round bases on each pin underneath the 40 pin listing and the top where you insert the chip is round but the 24 pin listing shows the pin without this little base and a different top where you insert the chip. The second one looks more like the ones I've seen in atari's before. Is one better than the other or does it even matter?
Thanks
I actually answered this just now in the Hardware forum at AA. But the top ones are called machine pin type sockets are are best used with IC or devices that have round peg like legs on them. While could use standard thin IC legs in the round sockets, they only make contact with just the thin edge of the legs of the IC doing so. Much better to go with the bottom ones you listed. Those are called dual wipe sockets and are designed for the standard thin legs that most ICs use. They have much better surface contact on both sides of the legs inside and out.
-
Here is a video I did on my UAV installation into a 4-port 5200. I had some issues in that this particular 4-port refused to work without the 4050 still in the mix. Since I wanted to keep the RF shield in place, it required some modification of the mod board.
Bryan's procedures are pretty much dead on so unless there is a need for something with more pictures...etc I'm leaving it with just my video and Bryan's instructions.
Bryan's instructions for installation are found on his blog here:
http://atariage.com/...ac-in-the-5200/
- Atari 5200 Guy and Justin
-
2
-
Recently acquired and repaired an Roland MT-200. It is basically like having an SC-55 sound module with the ability to play midi files jukebox style from a floppy disk drive! Aside from not having MT-32 support, it covers the rest of the early 90s era DOS gaming Midi needs. Also this module works great with DosBox, ScummVM, and the X68 Sharp x68k emulator through the use of a Roland UMONE mkii usb to midi adapter set.
For those interested, I picked up my MT-200 listed in as is condition for $40 shipped. It ran another $40 for a brand new set of the Roland USB - Midi cables. Overall, I'm really happy with it!
Repairs needed:
Settings and Instrumentation was all goofed up. A factory reset from the hidden diag menus took care of this.
Floppy drive would light up but not read or recognize a disk had been inserted. Turned out to be a bend pin on the floppy interface connector on the mainboard. I'm not the only to have gotten inside this module. Also cleaned up the floppy read/write heads as they were pretty nasty as well. About an hours worth of time to fix given I'd never been inside one of these before.
-
I did not know it had been released but did manage to email Kristoff and heard from him today. I have no idea what number mine will be but it will likely be over 200!
You are most likely correct. People who ordered theirs about a week after I ordered mine, got theirs today as well and they were numbered in the 130s. Mine was #116 so it likely will reach over 200 orders if is hasn't already. Might be one of the fastest selling if not the fastest selling Vectrex homebrews that's been released.
As for how to order, you have to sent Kristof an email asking for the ordering details. Eventually you will get a reply that will either tell you, you are in a waiting queue to get the ordering information, or he will send you an email with the ordering options and how to pay..etc. My understanding is that he is only able to process a few orders a day since he is a one man operation getting these made and released out. What you get for the price I feel is easily worth the price of admission!
http://kristofsnewvectrexgames.comli.com/
Might need to disable your AV if you have one before browsing to it. For some odd reason, his site triggers lots of AV web scanners as malicious. I had to add an exclusion to my Malware Bytes in order to access his site. He doesn't have the game up for ordering on his website yet, but you email him directly to ask to be placed in the queue.
-
-
-
I'm not sure I have anything to add to this thread. But yes, there was a CC version to be made for the 7800 only as has been stated no proto has surfaced. However, the XE version was converted for the 5200 and I actually have a reproduction cart I bought from Good Deal Games at a previous CGE in Vegas. It looks and sounds great, but with stock 5200 controls..just not very playable. And using a Wico or other 3rd party controller doesn't help much.
It was also made known that converting the 8-bit or 2600 versions for trak-ball wasn't possible because there isn't enough cycles left for the game to play as it does plus monitor trak-ball motions. So it would essentially have to be remade from the ground up at this point and I'm not sure anyone has picked up that gauntlet.
-
Will do thanks Rick. I'll put that order in at console 5. Yes my concern is that some chips went too but fingers crossed. I'll post again when the voltage regulators arrive and I swap them out. Maybe I'll grab a refresh kit while I'm at it.
I would just grab the refresh kit and replace everything from the kit. Comes with a new 7805 of higher quality over the original, new caps, and a new switchcraft powerjack if I remember correctly. Those refresh kits are great and I've used them on just about all of my 2600s I have on hand and always on ones that I give away to friends and relatives or sell. For $10 it is cheap insurance in a plastic baggie!
-
New video review of this excellent and technical marvel of a game!
-
So it would appear that the guys over at NG:DEV have found a few more copies of some of their best dreamcast releases and have them up for very decent sale amounts!
http://www.ngdevdirect.com/index.php?cPath=21_23&osCsid=4e2b68e1b27000cbaddd7d2878521a31
I had been wanting to pick up NEO XYX and figured it would never happen since it is so expensive second hand. Well...not anymore!
Anyway, I was glad to have been told about this and though I would share the knowledge for those that might not have these excellent games for their DC collection yet.
-
Guess I never really noticed this forum dedicated for stuff like this. I've done quite a few YT vids over the past 2 years or so. I just completed a new one this weekend with my game play review of the newly released Port/Homebrew of the excellent platformer known as "L'Abbaye des Morts" (The Abbey of the Dead) for the Sega Genesis / Mega Drive. Lots of cool game appearance modes with this one!
Enjoy!
- GRay Defender and Justin
-
2
-
There is the OSSC though it isn't cheap either, but it isn't quite as expensive as the Framemeister. Also, the OSSC would require some additional adapters as it only has inputs for component, VGA, and SCART I believe. It is that reason alone that I haven't invested into the OSSC and still stick with my separate converters I use. Though the lag isn't too bad at like 4 to 6 fames per second according to 240p test suite. Even less when I do the manual lag test since over the years I've essentially become accustomed to it and just naturally compensate for it.
-
-
Thought about it but I already have a small collection of mini arcades forming with the bigfun ones from Wal-mart etc... And these are really small and not really practical for playing is my understanding.
Also, if you didn't know it has been confirmed that all 4 games reside in each unit. You can attach a dip-switch to some jumper points inside the thing to switch games between power cycles.
-
There is a kit you can order for the Game Gear, but it isn't for the faint of heart either. Requires removal of several surface mount components and replacing them with other surface mount components. And then the other fun of attaching the video lines to very small traces on the PCB where the original LCD ribbon cable used to be stickered down onto.
-
With permission from Catskull Electronics, I present to you the YM2017 Music Album on a Genesis/MD cartridge. These went on pre-order/pre-sale a few months back and sold out pretty quickly I believe. This is a very cool cart because it not only contains 9 very high quality tracks from various talented chiptune artists, but also had a built in 8x8 LED matrix display programmed to go in time with the music.
I received my cart in the mail yesterday and was blown away by this! I contacted Catskull Electonics who gave his permission to video and record the entire cart album for all to see it in action. No more of these are planned to be made again, so this is the only way to see and hear this excellent composition of work!
Enjoy!
-
Today happens to be the last day that you can order up a YM2017 music cart from Catskull electronics. After midnight mountain time...no more will be made. They have already started to ship these out as well. I'm excited to get mine and will post a video of it once I do. Not sure if it would be okay to post a video of all the tracks in their entirety playing, but then again, if they aren't going to ever make any more...then...hmm.
I also found out that no additional chips are in these YM2017 carts to produce the samples. It is all stock Genesis/MD hardware driving these tunes?! So I guess once i get the YM2017 cart in my hands, it will be the best audio heard from a Genesis without additional hardware.
Now it could be said that I'm using additional hardware since I have a separate YM3438 piggybacked ontop of the 2612 in my Genesis. But all of the Model2 and later units actually used a build in cmos version of the ym3438 synth in them. So in that regards my Genesis is still basically stock in from a certain point of view?
-
Wonder if a similar technique can be used to get rid of the other dreaded smell I usually encounter from games I find or receive. That is the basement smell?! Yeap...that is just as bad if not worse because it can also mean that there might be mildew/mold in the paper fibres that you can't see. I have a Telly Turtle manual that came with a CIB Telly Turtle I found locally that had this heavy smell of basement mildew. I was able to use my citrus cleaner on the case the game came in to rid most of that. The cart for some odd reason didn't smell nearly as bad and cleaning the contacts and along in the inside with a q-tip and alcohol seemed to make that go away. But the manual?! It is better, but what I did was basically just fan open the manual and have it sitting on a shelf in the game room. After about 3 weeks I checked it and the smell was much less noticeable.
Atari Heavy Sixer Ribbon Problem
in Hardware Hacking
Posted
Yeah...once my wife surprised me one Father's Day about 4 years ago now I think?, with my Hakko FR-300 I've not touched the de-soldering braid or my solder sucker since!