CrossBow

I absolutely play more modern games. Both on my PC and my PS4 in some cases. On my PS4 my main game I've got the most hours into by far would be No Man's Sky. I bought it when it was first released back in 2016 and was bored within an hour and put it down. Then about a year ago I decided to give it another go as there had been so many updates and it was supposed to be much improved etc. I was blown the hell away by all the changes?! It was NOT even remotely the same game as before. Updated UI, updated graphics (That even on the PS4 still hold up quite well I might add), and all the new content they added. It is an amazing casual and relaxing game to chill with and just do whatever. The Horizon games I also thought were imcredible! I'm disappointed that the newer DLC for the latest game is PS5 only, but I guess Sony was going to have to cut the PS4 loose eventually. Still there are quite a few indie games I've bought for the PS4 and I enjoy. On the PC side of things I've recently gotten back into Mass Effect. The legendary edition was on sale last week for $10 so I picked it up and have been playing it each night when I can. I've gotten through both of the first 2 games so far and started ME:3 late last night. I own the first 2 games for the PC already, but bought the 3rd one for the PS3 way back and never got more than halfway through it. So it will be nice to finally complete that game. I also had a lot of fun with Tiny Tina's Wonderland on PC and had been playing it prior. I've not decided if I will get Starfield or not. The performance of that game won't be great on my PC these days, but I might also look into getting Cyberpunk finally. Odd thing with that game, it was what I built my current PC for back in late 2019, but then the game got delayed and when it did finally release, the PC I put together still didn't have the omph to run it well. Still won't but there it is.

Yes... I believe the button mapping is reversed on all of the 7800 games. Commando is set to use button 2 for firing the gun and button 1 for grenades. As a result, you can't even start the game with a single button controller. So yes, in addition to the difficulty switches being reversed, it seems the fire buttons on 7800 games is also backwards. Although someone did bring up a valid point in that if you were to consider the 2600+ as a 7800 system then the switches are actually correct physically at that point, but don't match the molded print on the back of the system. Hopefully those issues are able to addressed with firmware updates. But the difficulty switches will always be confusing in regards to 2600 vs 7800 games. Luckily many 7800 games don't use those swiches aside from additional functions for the game in most cases.

@sramirez2008 forgot to answer you on this. YES I've confirmed my old Mateos works just fine. However, again, the same limitations apply in that only the officially released games will load up since homebrews aren't in the lookup table for the 2600+ yet. Some things to add that I confirmed yesterday in doing some more testing... as it relates to 7800 games. My actual cartridge of Double Dragon will NOT load at all. In fact, the 2600+ never even attempts a game loading for it. Just always sits on Game Load Failed... But the cart works just fine in my actual 7800. So that leads me to believe that there is at least on other revision of Double Dragon for the 7800 out there. Because the NTSC rom from Trebor's pak will load up from my DF cart. But not my actual cart. I did notice that my actual Double Dragon cart is most likely one of the ones that uses an EPROM vs masked ROM. I know quite a few Absolute and Activision 7800 games back then were done that way. So I'm wondering if that has something to do with it also. Another thing is that I've now confirmed there is an issue with Asteroids Deluxe. If you play on any difficulty above novice, then after the first wave or two, you will start to get random hyperwarps. If you start the game on Novice, it will still happen but not until you are several waves in, at about the same level as intermediate or expert would be. In talking with another AA member on this, the issue is related to something involving port 2. Because similar to Xenophobe, Rampage, and Rikki & Vikki, if you don't have a controller plugged into port 2, then random fire button presses seem to happen that can trigger a player 2 start etc. In the case of Asteroids, it appears to trigger random warps. Plugging in a second controller seems to minimize this issue in the game by about 90%. It is interesting to me that an actual bug/feature/ flaw..whatever you want to call it that happens on actual hardware, is also happening in this emulator since again, it is a hardware design issues between the paddle lines and the TIA that occasionally confuses the 7800 logic. Although it should be mentioned that as far as I know, Asteroids on actual hardware doesn't suffer this same issue while Rampage, Xenophobe and R&V do. So the point is that it might solve some glitching with 780 games if you have a 2nd controller plugged into the 2600+.

I honestly don't own that many 2600 home brew games Scott. I mostly own home brews for other platforms. And the ones I do own for the 2600 I already knew wouldn't work on the 2600+. I've got multiple 2600s, and 7800s etc for my use to play these games one without issue. I bought the 2600+ because I like the idea they have put forth and because I think sales of it will encourage them to release something better in the future. Not sure about the reversed difficulty switches, but I can tell you that pretty much every 7800 game has their buttons reversed and...the color/bw switch does NOT pause 7800 games. Does nothing... But I believe that has more to do with them using such an old version of the Prosystem emulator for the 7800 side than anything as these issues were present back then in emulation as well. I can add that one thing that is quite confusing is that Atari's list of games doesn't specify if they tested a PAL version or NTSC. Because I've now found that in addition to Rampage, my actual Double Dragon cartridge will NOT even give me a loading game message. But... from my DragonFly cartridge the game will load up and run. So that alone tells me that Atari did LIKELY test many carts they had access too. But I suspect a large part of the testing and pass/fail was to simply see if a game loaded or not and they likely had others (testers) to load up their copies of these games and report back to them. As a result, games with multiple variants like Ballblazer, Choplifter, and I suspect Double Dragon, may or may not load up since the checksum table in the prosystem emulation on the 2600+ doesn't have a complete table of values to know what the games are. And yes, Al has said many times that he is working with Atari so they can address these issues with FW updates that would also update the files on the 2600+ so that more homebrew games can be made to work including 7800 homebrew. But like all large companies, I'm sure that getting the 2600+ out the door in time for the Holiday shopping was more important so I suspect such an update won't happen for sometime. Still, I've bought other similar products not just from Atari, but others because such companies won't have much interested in fixing or releasing better stuff if they don't sell enough of what they have made already. They guys from Plaion have said that the success of the 2600+ will determine what other future products we might see.

@Scott Stilphen The $15 RCA - HDMI converters you speak of have quite a bit of lag in that conversion and look awful since you end up with upscaled composite (complete with the dot crawl, ghosting, etc... ) through the HDMI so it still doesn't look any better than it would have just using composite by itself provided your TV still has a standard AV jacks on it for input. (Many aren't these days I've noticed...). And the only way to get the current Atari to provide more games and products that are likely to want to buy is by supporting the current efforts where it at least appears they are trying. BTW, I've not noticed much if any lag on my 2600+ through my AV setup? Are there reports and measurements showing how much lag there is? As for compatibility yeah, it isn't where most would want it to be right now. But Albert has told me that they do plan to provide updates to not only allow more 2600 homebrew games to work, but also some 7800 as well. How much they improve on all of that, we can only wait and see. I also noted in my post at the beginning that some homebrews on the 2600 side do work. And while I've not tested my entire library of 2600 games, what they have on their compatibility chart seems to match up with what I've tested so far. In the 7800 side of things I can now confirm that that some games do have the buttons reversed. Commando for instance and Rampage doesn't load up at all. But far as I know and everyone else has tested, Rampage is the only official released 7800 game from back in the day that isn't working currently. So again, from a first offering of a console that looks the part for the most part more than any of the FB consoles have, and can take actual cartridges again, it works for what it was designed to do and with updates it should get better.

@Scott Stilphen The $15 RCA - HDMI converters you speak of have quite a bit of lag in that conversion and look awful since you end up with upscaled composite (complete with the dot crawl, ghosting, etc... ) through the HDMI so it still doesn't look any better than it would have just using composite by itself provided your TV still has a standard AV jacks on it for input. (Many aren't these days I've noticed...). And the only way to get the current Atari to provide more games and products that are likely to want to buy is by supporting the current efforts where it at least appears they are trying. BTW, I've not noticed much if any lag on my 2600+ through my AV setup? Are there reports and measurements showing how much lag there is? As for compatibility yeah, it isn't where most would want it to be right now. But Albert has told me that they do plan to provide updates to not only allow more 2600 homebrew games to work, but also some 7800 as well. How much they improve on all of that, we can only wait and see. I also noted in my post at the beginning that some homebrews on the 2600 side do work. And while I've not tested my entire library of 2600 games, what they have on their compatibility chart seems to match up with what I've tested so far. In the 7800 side of things I can now confirm that that some games do have the buttons reversed. Commando for instance and Rampage doesn't load up at all. But far as I know and everyone else has tested, Rampage is the only official released 7800 game from back in the day that isn't working currently. So again, from a first offering of a console that looks the part for the most part more than any of the FB consoles have, and can take actual cartridges again, it works for what it was designed to do and with updates it should get better.

Unless the audio is actually following the movement on the screen properly...it isn't stereo. In Combat, if I move my tank or plane from the left to the right, I expect the sounds to follow suite. But they do NOT. Player 1 sounds are always heard from the left and player 2 on the right. Ever listen to Pitfall II on a 'stereo' modded 2600? Sounds awful and some of the sounds end up getting drowned out due to the odd way the music seems to come from mostly one channel vs being split out. Solaris I will admit will occasionally sound cool when you hyper warp with a stereo modded 2600, but most other games just sound wrong to me since as I said, the audio doesn't really follow the action on screen accurately. Medieval Mayhem is the first time I've heard the 2 channels from the TIA being used to track the action seen on screen properly. @Scott Stilphen you also seem to be making comparisons from the Atari of 10 years ago to the Atari of today, and they really aren't the same group of folks running things. To me, the past year and recent game releases and the 2600+ demonstrate to me that the current Atari or I should say, those currently operating as Atari, seem to care and seem to be trying. So I'm optimistic for now.

I think someone posted info from Stella where it looks like only Medieval Mayhem and the various Skeleton games are configured for Stereo on the 2600+ at this time.

Interesting, I did attend CGE2k2 but I don't remember buying it that far back as that was my first CGE I attended. I might have been for sale later. I know I picked mine up from the AtariAge booth at a CGE and the guy that did the enhanced stuff was there as well. You know, it likely was back that far because my copy of Berzerk VE is also one of the few homebrews I have where the end label started to peel up nearly as soon as I got home with it since AA was still working on finding the best ways to do that stuff. The end label is hand cut as well on it. Geeze...20 years ago?! Anyone get the new Bezerk Enhanced? I did NOT, but I'm hearing others state it only has like 2 voice phrases and they are hard to make out?

Yeah I was surprised when he title music was coming out of different channels in the game room and when the game played and the sounds were following the fireballs etc. First actual true stereo 2600 game I guess? Although I hear that Skeleton+ has the same actual stereo in the game. Just remember that with the DF only the official released games are working and Rampage is still a NO GO regardless. None of the graphic hacks of original games would load. So the checksums are just too different for the emulator to know what to do it seems. Hopefully Atari updates some of that so that some 7800 homebrews will work since. But even my physical carts of Sirius and Plutos would NOT load that I got from CPUWIZ years ago. Not sure if those games were never added to the Prosystem look update tables or what?

I got my 2600+ from FedEx yesterday. My initial impressions are that it does feel like it is built really well although I was a little surprised at how small the length of screws used were for holding it all together. For those that didn't know, all of the guts of the 2600+ are located in the switch panel section of the unit. It uses a couple of different PCBs sandwiched and connected together to do everything. Here are my Pros thus far: The cartridge slot is actually quite nice and seems to have a good connection with the games I've tested it with. But do make sure you clean any of your old cartridges you haven't used in a while to be sure that you are allowing as good a connection as possible and to prevent adding any crud from your old carts into the 2600+. The switches are kinda amazing on this thing?! They have a very satisfying click to the power and color/bw switch and the select and reset have a point where you can feel them engage and their spring back action is very nice. It makes me wonder if the switches can be adapted to OEM consoles... My 2600+ shipped set to 16:9 mode. This will result in that fully stretched image that some like and some do not. I prefer to NOT have that stretched look so I promptly set mine to 4:3 mode. The hot swap ability of games is quite nice and I advise using this method since you save a little bit of time loading up games this way. If you power cycle the 2600+ off/on each time, then you have to wait for the 2600+ to boot up internally first before it starts to load the game. The hot swap works exactly as it sounds too. The 2600+ detects when you have a game in the console. If you pull it out while powered on, it will blank out and then go to game load failed. Pop in a different game and a second or two later, it will show game loading and the game will appear on the screen. Seems to work with most of the original library of games for both 2600 and 7800 that I've tested so far. Quite a few older 2600 homebrews have also come up and worked for me. Some home brew games I tested last night that worked were: Berzerk: VE originally released during CGE 2010 I believe? K.O. Cruiser (Although I still can figure out the controls on this one) Go Fish! (Worked great!) Ninjish Guy (Most modern home brew I've tried so far and it worked great) Medieval Mahem (Seemed to work okay with joystick and...bonus! It was in stereo?!) Now for the cons and most of this is just stuff I've noticed and it mainly effects the 7800 side of things: First let me get this out there. NONE of the 7800 homebrews or graphic hacks I tested would load. As the 2600+ uses a lookup table based on the game rom checksum to know how to load up, this doesn't surprise me. Hopefully the lookup table and possibly the emulated being used can be updated to allow support for some 7800 home brews. But again, NONE would load up for me. The ONLY original released game for the 7800 that hasn't loaded up for me yet in my testing, was Rampage. It will start to load the game, but then just gives a black screen for me with my actual cartridge. Ballblazer was the first game I loaded up and it did load up and play great. But... the pokey emulation isn't quite there as the entire counter melody on the title tune is missing. So this tells me that the RNG from the pokey isn't being emulated as that counter melody uses that pokey feature specifically. Commando loaded up and played correctly. The ONLY issue is that there is some slight graphical corruption on the title screen where the difficulty selection is. But very minor and the game itself displays fine. Some games appear to have their button 1 and button 2 functions swapped? Although some of the games, I've not played for a bit so I might be wrong on this. But using a normal 2-button 7800 controller, the games did work and respond correctly. Now for some oddball miscellaneous stuff I've noticed or find interesting that can be taken as a pro or con... The 2600+ outputs a 720P signal. Although it seems this isn't quite a standard 720P signal as my TV takes a second or two to lock in and show the output. Also, my capture device in the game room usually has no issue with 480P, 720P, and 1080P sources. But it does NOT like the 720P from the 2600+ and stays in pass through mode. So I'm not currently able to get any direct captures from the 2600+ output. I've heard from others that some games don't work for them while others report they do. Both 7800 Ms. Pac-Man and Crossbow are reported as non-working for some and working for others. In my testing with my actual cartridges, both games loaded up and worked without issue for me. But it is possible there are two or more revisions of these games that were released over the years that could be the cause for this if they have slightly different checksums than what is being expected for those games in the 2600+. The power LED is stupid easy to replace as there is NO soldering involved. The LED is held in place with a 2 piece bracket using small phillips screws. A 2pin JST connector is plugged into the leads of the LED. So all that is needed to change the LED with a different color if you wanted, would be to remove the small screws and put in a different LED. Plug the jst connector onto the leads and that's it. I've not checked the value of the limiting resistor in the 2600+ for the LED as yet, but as they were using a warm white LED, an those are fairly modern, it is likely the value being used will be good for any LED out there that is 5mm in size to fit in the bracket holder. I've installed a slow changing RGB LED into mine as I felt that fit better than a static color. Flash carts: No surprise, but most of the flash carts out there are NOT going to work with the 2600+. That said, I can confirm that the Dragon Fly 7800 flash cartridge does work! As the DF cart loads the game up outside of the console, the 2600+ is able to read the DF like a normal game and just loads up the game that the DF has loaded into RAM at that time. Also, the hot swap ability of the 2600+ allows for easy game changes on the DF because you can have a game loaded on the DF and playing, then use the DF menu to back out. Choose another game and then press the Enter button on the DF to start loading the other game. The 2600+ will detect this, and blank out with the Game Load Failed message, but then a few seconds later it will show Game Loading... and the game you selected on the DF will now be playing on the 2600+. So it is interesting that the DF's ability to control the 7800 consoles power on/off function seems to also trigger the 2600+'s cartridge detection routine. All other flash carts I have failed to load up with the Game Load Failed message which, is to be expected since other flash carts rely on talking with the console hardware directly to load up and show their on screen menu of games. So my initial thoughts are that I think this is a great first step from this new Atari in trying to appeal to as many audiences as possible. There seems to be a lot more market hype on this 2600+ release than anything else Atari related I've seen in well over a decade and I do believe this will get non retro gamers back and into the hobby. With updates made to the console FW or outright hacking it in the future, I'm sure more games will be made to work and that will increase sales of the 2600+ and home brew along with games second hand. I see all of that as a good thing and it might signal a true actual rebirth for Atari and interest in the hobby.

I own three of New Wave's replicades and they are all excellent! The first one I bought was their Tempest. I bought it during PRGE 2018 I think it was or possibly 2019. I just remember how tricky it was to get it to fit into my luggage safely for the return trip home. I also own their Dragon's Lair and Space Ace cabinets. Both of those are excellent and even better since the HDMI outputs allow me to legally play the games in their arcade form with a nice controller (I used my PS4 controllers connected via USB to them), on the much bigger screen in the living room. I think the only other one they have released that I sort regret not getting was the Q*Bert. They even added a small solenoid knocker on it to simulate when Coily or Q*Bert fall off the playfield just like the arcade cabinet did. They recently had Ghosts n Goblins and a Ghouls n Ghosts cabinets that sold out pretty quickly, but I was never a huge fan of those games really.

Two options are my preferred when playing on my CV. My main option is the Rugger Pad I got from Ruggers Customs. It is actually a Genesis 3 button controller with a replacement PCB in it that adds the 1,2, and I think the 0 button along with the actual button 1 and button 2 needed. Covers a majority of the games for me and. If I play a game that uses the keypad buttons that aren't emulated on the Rugger Pad, then I use one of my actual CV controllers that I added a ball top to.

There you go... so again it seems that those that ordered more than just the 2600+ are the ones now having to wait. I've seen posts where folks wish that Atari had just sent them the 2600+ first and the other stuff later, but that doesn't make sense as like any company, they are going to want to ship everything all at once vs breaking up as that can be a real logistical nightmare. I'm sure they weren't quite prepared for the influx of orders they actually received and they likely miscalculated how much product needed to be ready for launch. I can say, that from my perspective at least, it seems the 2600+ has gotten more main stream attention than any of the Flashback units prior and so there is more coverage for the 2600+ making more folks aware of it than before.

Although speculation, it seems that those that only ordered the console itself, like me, might actually be getting them while those that ordered the 2600+ with something else like additional games or controllers, seem to be the ones with delayed shipping now from Atari.

Did I read on the AA forums that you got an email stating you wouldn't be getting yours until December now? My tracking shows a possible delivery for this coming Wednesday as it is in FedEx's hands now.

My order # is 7664

@sramirez2008 I did see the pics that were posted on the new 7800 gamepad controller. I'm sure I will order at least one when they are available for purchase.

I got my shipping notification yesterday from Atari. But according to FedEx it is still just a label notification and FedEx doesn't have it in hand yet. So likely they will get it today and start it on its journey. I know of the limitations and understood that before buying it. But I feel that the only way Atari will provide something better in the future, is if this initial 2600+ gets a strong showing in support from the community. And we don't know what updates in the future might allow. The fact that it has now been confirmed to work with the DragonFly is also quite nice since that means more home brew 7800 games can be made to work if they just update the lookup checksum tables in the 2600+ so it knows how to setup the emulation to allow for more games to work.

in noticed this as well with the all the release/review videos today showing that in the unboxing part. I'm likely to do the same. But then I'm not sure if I'm going to actually have my 2600+ setup somewhere for use all the time either.

Give it time and I'm sure Printerboy will get one made up. Barb would too but I don't know how actively she is in making new covers these days. I want to say the last time I spoke with her just over a year ago, she was clearing out what she had to retire from it. Sad too since most of my covers in my setup are from Barb.

While I can't quite afford either of those models, I did happen to get a NeoGeo CD for under $200 about a month ago. Now I have a controller and will need to get a PSU for it at some point. I know that Metal Slug and MS2 are available for the NeoGeo CD. Then again, I own the Saturn port of Metal Slug also. Such great games!

I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method. - The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models - There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise - Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles - The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wiring from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch NTSC Atari consoles. UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:- The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier. Different revisions:- The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles. Power, Ground and Color resistor:- The UAV requires power and ground to operate. The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the right leg of this resistor and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping it in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well. NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:- The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. Audio Connection:- As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. UAV output wiring:- The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack. What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :- The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting. And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea.

Unrelated but I have noticed that the market on the games is now coming down. My collection is now showing a -10k value from where it was a year ago. Some games in my collection for the Saturn for instance that were at or near $1000 have dropped as much as 40% of where they were currently. One example is my CIB of Magic Knight Rayearth. I bought mine like 6 years ago for $250. It came with the Saturn game including the full sticker sheet and also came with the JPN Saturn release of the game and the JPN Game Gear version of the game that was NIB. Just about a year ago the US Saturn release of the game was about $800 on its own and during the middle of the pandemic it was nearly $1000. Now it's value has dropped to around $600. But on the opposite side of that, some of my SNES CIB games have gone up quite a bit! So who knows? I don't mind either way because I did NOT pay for the prices that any of my games are currently showing their value at. OH! I am surprised to see that the Atari XP releases for Aquaventure, and Yar's Return have gone up as well. Aquaventure is currently showing a value of over $200 with Yar's coming in at over $150?! Saboteur isn't showing up yet as I guess there isn't any sales history for that one yet. It just shows a "?" for value on Gameye at this time. I'm assuming this is because they were limited releases and not currently available? Wonder what some of the others will get up to in the future then?

Yes, this I've known about with Humble Bundles at least. I wasn't sure about the code still working either, but I opened up my Steam client and went strait to redeem the code and it gave a success and the game just auto installed. At that point, the add-on was still in my cart and I could now purchase it. So it was pretty seamless at that point. I think Steam codes are basically good forever, but the codes that humble gets might be created by Humble themselves and that is why they have windows for expiration on them.