DegasElite

I tried using Linux, or more specifically Raspbian, once. I know everyone likes it but I personally can’t stand it. It’s probably a me problem but it seems like none of the programs I like to use are compatible with it.

I've previously use Linux distros in the past but currently have a Raspberry Pi 4 using an Atari case from Micro Center.  My "VCS Pi" is set to run distros off flash drives being inspired by the PC Mode.  While I use a Windows 10 PC downstairs in my opened office room as a daily driver and gaming machine, the Pi is my "bedroom" computer if I need to work with privacy or just to mess around.  Here are favorites...
Raspbian: My main workhorse setup that I used for work-at-home situtations that don't require Windows.  I use both LibreOffice locally and Google Workspaces & Microsoft 365 on the Chromium browser.  Not ideal for watching videos but I have a Samsung tablet that acts a "second screen".  Plus I'm able to remote into my Windows PC with Easy VNC though a RDP setup is better (needs Windows Pro).
Ubuntu: That's my 'fun' OS that gives me the feel of using PC Mode on a VCS if I had one.  It's the only that runs Firefox on a Pi but the constant updates are slow...  other than that I like the different feel of using the Unity desktop compaired to the usual Windows one occasionally.
BeePi: This transforms my Pi into a real Atari computer that runs not only FreeMint through Aranym but also ST emulation by double clicking on a disk image from a multitasking GEM desktop.  It's not much of a daily driver but I'm still working on setting it up for basic stuff.
RetroPi: My future project, I plan on hooking the Pi up to a CRT television using the A/V cable and play my ROM collections with (hopefully) USB adapters to use real Atari & Sega controlers.

Yes, it's a AMD Ryzen mini PC that doubles as a game console...

GREAT write up and advice.  You are a true asset and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. 

I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method.
- The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models
- There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise
- Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles
- The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly
Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wiring from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch NTSC Atari consoles. 
UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:-
The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier.


Different revisions:-
The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles.
Power, Ground and Color resistor:-
The UAV requires power and ground to operate. The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the right leg of this resistor and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping it in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well.


NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:-
The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. 


Audio Connection:-
As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. 
UAV output wiring:-
The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack.


What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :-
The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting.
And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea. 

Buy an Atari VCS 🙂 
My advice would be to find a used tiny Dell desktop and use that.  I've seen them sell for about $40...small form factor, Intel series 4 i3/5, and DDR3. 
 

Yes...it does. though I've not used it specifically.
Once you open the app there is an additional menu that has an export option. From there you choose if you want to create a restore point. (Needed if you want to have the app on more than one device as it doesn't sync between devices). or export out as a spreadsheet.
That said, I've not seen an Import option so even if you have the spreadsheet they provide, It doesn't look like you can alter that and up it back to the app.
 

I use CLZ Games. I also use CLZ Movies for my DVD/Blu-Ray/4K collection. I bought them before they converted to subscription services, so I'm grandfathered in. Two biggest reasons why I use the apps are cross-platform availability (I access the app from phone, tablet, PC) and data export feature (CSV). The CLZ apps go on sale every year around Black Friday. I think that brings it down to $10 or $15 per year.
I dabbled with a spreadsheet before I moved to the app. I stopped because I already had a sizable collection and entering the games in the spreadsheet was a big pain. With the app, I can scan barcodes or search their cloud DB to facilitate.
I also dabbled with GameEye a few years ago. I decided against it because I could only access the data from my phone. It didn't have cloud sync back then for multi-platform use. Perhaps it does so now. However, if I didn't already purchase CLZ Games, I would probably go with GameEye since it's free and enjoys wide support (I think).

Adding @CrossBow

I have debated using these apps or services as they do have benefits that my spreadsheet method does not.  
Only thing I don't like about using an App or service is if disappears one day have to redo it.   Does Gameeye let you export?

I wonder if Gameeye allows import of data from a spreadsheet.  The idea of having it give the value would be interesting to me.  Set up a notification that if any game goes over $100 in value...SELL!  🙂 

This is a great idea, I need to do this.  I currently manually copy the file to my phone every once in while. 
 

I do the same and save it to a Google share drive so have it any time I need it when out shopping.

I actual use Gameye. That is how I got those numbers pretty quickly. I only listed what I appear to have with most value according to gameye. I'm actually at just over 2100 games total according to the app.
 

I use an Excel spreadsheet.  All the games are organized by system, so I just need to look at the numbers to know how many per system.  🙂

I use an Excel spreadsheet with a separate tab for each system, and then a summary page that adds them all up for me.  I'm guessing the cloud based apps like Gameye have a lot more features...but I was collecting before any of that existed and came up with the Excel solution then.  But you are totally right, it does help buying duplicates.

I'd highly recommend the Gameye app.  It keeps my entire catalog in the palm of my hand.  Once you catalog your collection, it's pretty quick and easy to maintain and very easy to see what you have at a glance.  Gameye keeps me from spending money on games that I already have, that way I can make more productive buys.

I have 2509 games for various systems. I've not counted how many for each one, though.  I'd need to do that.  🙂

I'm currently showing 718 games in my collection and counting
2600 - 70 5200 - 30 7800 - 36 Jaguar - 47 Jaguar CD - 17 Intellivision - 49 Xbox - 23 Xbox 360 - 67 Neo Geo AES - 3 Neo Geo CD - 10 NES - 17 N64 - 7 GC - 4 Switch - 5 Wii - 26 32X - 1 Dreamcast - 13 Genesis - 29 PS1 - 45 PS2 - 64 PS3 - 5 TG16 - 15 Lynx - 72 NGPC - 7 DS - 9 GBA - 7 GBC - 3 Game Gear - 16 PSP - 2 I'll have to check but that Jaguar number seems a bit light.  I thought I had a full original run of those carts except for Zoop.  A number of other systems look light to me too, but maybe not.  I think I have too many game systems LOL!  I need to trim that down and just buy games for the ones I play the most.

OK, here is my breakdown:
2600 - 462
5200 - 91
7800 - 154
XEGS - 15
ColecoVision - 31
Dreamcast - 112
Evercade - 41
GameBoy - 11
GameBoy Color - 12
GameCube - 38
GBA - 41
Genesis - 191
Intellivision - 180
Amico - 8
Jaguar - 241
Lynx - 178
Master System - 5
NES - 144
Nintendo DS - 16
PC - 12
PS1 - 27
PS2 - 42
PS4 -  101
PSP - 94
32X - 49
SNES - 29
Vectrex - 122
Xbox - 56

High score club is in their third month of the current season, and previous games can be played for one participation point, which can help.
Current month is Raiden and Rayman!   Pulling out the stops for this one!
https://forums.atariage.com/topic/356322-jaguar-hsc_season-18_round-3-raiden-and-rayman/

This thread is for the high score thread over on Atariage where people play set games and submit their scores or whatever accomplishments here.
If you are unable to get on Atariage we could pass scores over to their message area from time to time before the deadline.  And naturally if the score is accepted will be up to the person running the HSC. 
 

Jaguar aficionados might also enjoy our celebration of 30 years of the Atari Jaguar by participating in our cross-platform TEMPEST 2000 Squad Challenge hosted by @Sabertooth in Club VCS!
You can play the game on Atari 50, BigPEmu or on original hardware!
Join us here:
 

 
 

Over an hour of 80's movies/TV shows and music tributes.
 

I'm at 4946. If I remove duplicates, it's probably 4850-4900. This number will decrease by about 1400 in a week or two after I sell most of my PS1, PS2, and PS4 games. I need to put together the down payment for a car that I'm getting for my wife's 50th birthday. I knew the day of game downsizing would come. It just started a few years earlier than anticipated is all.
I will probably shed most of my Xbox, Xbox 360, and Xbox One games next. GameCube and maybe Wii games might follow. Just in terms of number of games, PlayStation and Xbox games make up the bulk of my collection. 
I have 325 2600 games including homebrews and some duplicates. Ahead of that are (in ascending order) Switch, PlayStation, Xbox, Xbox 360, PS4, and PS2 (569 games).
As far as Atari systems are concerned, including homebrews and some duplicates:
Atari 400/800 99 Atari 2600 325 Atari 5200 68 Atari 7800 90 Atari Jaguar 31 Atari Lynx 34 Atari ST 4