Ballblaɀer Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Last weekend I picked up a Sears heavy sixer at a used movie/game shop, and today I finally had the chance to clean it up (it was FILTHY) and test it. It powers up, displays a great picture, sound is good, all the important switches function normally. The left controller port seems to be totally dead, though. I've tried known-working joysticks, paddles, and a keyboard controller in there, and nothing works -- no movement, no fire button action. The right controller port works fine, which leads me to believe that all of the ICs are good and the problem is the port itself. I can't see any obviously bent or broken pins. Suggestions, anyone? I may put this otherwise beautiful thing up for trade/sale if I can't come up with a reasonably fast and easy fix, but at this point I really would like to keep it. The field service guide assumes I have all sorts of fun diagnostic tools -- I have a screwdriver and a multimeter. Sabertooth and Rowsdower70 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickR Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 If the left port is completely dead, I'd immediately suspect the 5V or ground line. I think those are pins 7 and 8, or the middle two on the row with 4 pins. Check then with a voltmeter. My main theory is that one of those two solder points needs a touch up. Rowsdower70 and Sabertooth 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 How are the solder joints on the board to the 9 pin connector? Sometimes they just need cleaned and touched up. If that doesn't work, you might desolder, pull and replace the connector. These are coming up on 40 years old so even components that look good might not work. Rowsdower70 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 If the left port is completely dead, I'd immediately suspect the 5V or ground line. I think those are pins 7 and 8, or the middle two on the row with 4 pins. Check then with a voltmeter. My main theory is that one of those two solder points needs a touch up. Great minds. Rowsdower70 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballblaɀer Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Hmm. Measured 7 & 8 pins with a voltmeter, getting a constant 4.91V on each port. Maybe it's an IC issue after all? Thanks for the help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballblaɀer Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Update! I'm not sure how, but the controller port is now working. However, it acts as if the fire button is being constantly pressed. Definite progress. Atari Creep and Sabertooth 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 There is an old thread over at AA that suggests the 4050 chip might be the culprit. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/139202-6-switcher-left-player-always-firing/page-2 Ballblaɀer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballblaɀer Posted September 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 There is an old thread over at AA that suggests the 4050 chip might be the culprit. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/139202-6-switcher-left-player-always-firing/page-2 Thanks -- this will probably be the next thing I look at with respect to a fix for the constant-fire. https://console5.com/store/cd4050-cmos-hex-buffer-converters-atari-2600-5200-4050.html I don't have soldering equipment (or know-how) but a local friend does. Hopefully he can give me a hand. Sabertooth and RickR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickR Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Things get really tricky if you have to replace a soldered in chip. Best of luck! Sabertooth 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chas10e Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Things get really tricky if you have to replace a soldered in chip. Best of luck! I still have to replace the 4050 hex buffer chip in a unit I have & feel confident with my skills & equipment now \o/ if you know the chip is toast & have a new one , snip all the pins & desolder one pin at a time(basically) also put a socket there so you don't have to de-solderer again in the mean time, play Star Ship, it uses right port to play single player RickR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atari Creep Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Update! I'm not sure how, but the controller port is now working. However, it acts as if the fire button is being constantly pressed. Definite progress. Hmmm, I had one that did this very thing. Did ya ever figure it out? Quote Don't just watch TV, PLAY IT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Stilphen Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 The +5v isn't used for the joysticks, so if it's completely dead, the first thing to check would be the ground pin. It's always worth reflowing the solder on those controller ports, especially after nearly 40 years of use Next would be the 4050 chip as someone else mentioned. Last would be the RIOT chip. Atari Creep and Justin 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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