Justin

IMO, this was a really good interview. They covered several topics that should be informative for all, especially folks that may be new to the homebrew scene. 
 

I wonder if this fixes the double dragon ladder glitch of doom...

Here is some great information about use of an SD card from Facebook user "Mark McCabe" in the "Atari Gamestation Pro" group.
Using an SD Card in the GameStation Pro
From what I have read, the SD Micro card should be formatted to exFAT according to most users, some say FAT32 will work too I know for certain exFAT does work.. Top level folder should be named "Games" (the first letter must be a Capitol G or it won't work). If you have Firmware version V1.30 (or higher) Gamestation will support subfolders, if you have the original V1.20 it will not. in V1.30 and above. pressing the Home and Start button at the same time allows you switch to the SD card games menu, while pressing Home returns you to the internal games menu. If you have the original V1.20 you need to cycle power and go through the normal startup menu method. Suggested replacements for the OEM joysticks are the XBox1 or XBox PRO controllers.
  Supported ROM Files
.a26 - Atari 2600 Should play pretty much all # ** .a52 - Atari 5200 May not play many of them # .a78 - Atari 7800 Should play all ,gb - Game Boy (Black and White) .gba - Game Boy Advanced .gbc - Game Boy Color .bin - Sega Genesis just rename any .md files to .bin (they are the same) .sms - Sega Master System only with firmware 1.30 or higher .nes - NES (Nintendo Entertainment System) .sfc - Super Nintendo only with firmware 1.30 or higher*** MAME - Circa 2000 Arcade ROMS seem to work best Leave them in zipped format on the SD card. Archive.org has a selection of them. One youtuber recommends the 0.139 archive. .pce - TurboGraphic16 PC engine games only with firmware 1.30 or higher***
  Notes: ** In V1.30 they added paddle support to the 2600 SD card games. Make a subfolder named "Atari 2600 Paddle" and put the 2600 games that require the paddle functionality into that folder and the paddles will work. Notes: *** These games have issues with the controller due to button mapping. Hopefully in the next update they will allow users to remap their controllers to support these games better. Notes: # Many of these games when downloaded are in name.bin format as that is what some emulators expect. You can rename these, Foe example you can rename an atari 2600 name.bin file to name.a26 and it will work in the GameStation Pro just fine.

Sometime back I designed a two PCB set to help with installing mini din connectors in my Intellivision service work. I had requests from others to provide these files so that the PCBs can be used by all that might want to use them. Here is a link to the PDF guide that details the assembly process for the PCBs for use in the Intellivision 2609 model consoles. These can also be used on the Super Pro System and INTV III consoles as they are designed for installing in place of the RF modulator to provide a no cut solution for AV upgrades.
Link to 2609 mount board assembly PDF guide
The advantage of these mount boards is that being a 2 part PCB means I can use the same bottom base PCB for both model 2609 and INTV II consoles. With only the top PCB portion being different. Here is an example install I did very recently showing one of the completely mount board setups in place in a 2609 Intellivision that received an RGB upgrade. Here I used a 9pin mini din for the RGB and audio, but also the 9pin allows for composite to be wired up. This means that any Sega Genesis/MD model 2 AV cable setup can be used.

 
And the mount board has room to allow for aligning the mini din connector to be as centered as much as is possible.

 
I've also attached the PDF to this post to make it easier. Links for the gerber files to have PCBs made up can be found within the PDF. I do plan to make something similar for the INTV II model consoles as those have their own mount board PCB setup but is similar to build and use as the one shown here.
I've also released a video on my YT channel going through the assembly process and use of the mount PCBs into an actual 2609 model console I recently finished up for a client. The lighting is horrible on this as I had the exposure set way to high, but didn't really noticed until the very end so I apologize for that. Still, it shows detailed enough on how to use these PCBs.
 
 

Edition #3 for March is now out:

http://allthingscolecovision.com/
 

I work nights now, so I just watched this episode. Vinnie its true, there are many of us that catch you guys on the replay. Great episode. Here are my thoughts...
I agree that the overall pricing of games is unsustainable and prices will come down as the 2600+ hype dies down and sadly, as some of "our" generation continues to pass on as well. 7800 Asteroids is the best Port by Atari. I do love PMPs Asteroids Deluxe because it includes a hidden copy of Asteroids and therefore makes an excellent 2 for 1. However, nothing will ever beat the coin-op with its true vector graphics and SFX.  Asteroids Recharged is my favorite Recharged game, follwed by Black Widow and Centipede Recharged. I don't care for Pitfall!, but I really like Pitfall II: Lost Caverns. I don't care for Adventure either. I'm sure my last two comments will sound like sacrilege to some, but I just never got into either game. Their in my collection, but I barely play them.
Looking forward to your Top 100.🙂

Join Co-hosts 7800 Pro Gamer from the Atari Network YouTube Channel and FunkmasterV from Big N Funky Productions (bignfunkyproductions.com) as they discuss everything new and exciting about Atari!  And maybe even some old stuff?  All presented by Atari7800forever.com your one stop shop for all the information about the Atari 7800!
There are now multiple Atari 7800 games going for over 500 dollars on ebay and several more that are several hundred!  So is the 7800 a valuable collectors console now?  What affect does it have on the community?  Is it a good or bad thing?  Let's discuss!
In other news you can get a free Atari VCS game!  Watch to learn the promocode!  And QOMP2 was released on February 20th, but is it worth picking up?  And did one of the guys get a review code from Atari?  Well yes one did but which one did and which one is butt hurt?
We also had a Food Fight Culinary Combat Tournament so tune in for results and find out who is butt hurt over that!  Lots of butts hurting this week...
The Atari Network Podcast airs every other Friday at 730PM Eastern Standard Time, 430 Pacific!  Make sure you join us in 2 weeks for the next one, and watch the Man vs 7800 stream on the opposite weeks of the podcast!  Its on Atari Network, every other Saturday (opposite the podcast) at 10AM!
 

Great info, thank you. 

Do you happen to know of any reseller of 7800 cases (old stock or 3d printed)?  I've got a 7800 in a very broken case.  I was thinking of switching the power connector to a normal barrel plug, doing the uav mod, and homing it in a new case. 
 

There is a LOT of info regarding the Atari 7800 and UAV setups out there and I'm just as guilty as the next guy for not making it any easier to find this information. Well, I think enough is known at this point where I thought it might be a good idea for me to create a thread where I can place all of my UAV resources and knowledge in one place that can be found pretty easily. So this thread will contain the links to my UAV install guides and other resources I share.
Let's start with the PDF guides. There are two different guides depending on the install method you go with:
Here is the guide for the standard UAV 7800 installation using point to point wiring for all of the connections. This is a more complex way of installing a UAV, but allow for more freedom in placement of the UAV in your setup and was the main method used for many years.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19GLfVgQDS6ZPKzZn4rjHAAaMT0nxgaed/view?usp=drive_link
Here is the link for the guide if you go with one of the ITC mount board setups. This is an easier installation method I feel and has a few other benefits as well with cleaned up chroma timing for better color alignment, composite artifact color adjustments, and replicated mixing for the audio already in place. The mount boards can be purchased through the Brewing Academy.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1og9jXxrFBnWkmiCOjuYaBaitgUb7waXZ/view?usp=drive_link
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I've also recently come up with a method for a near no cut UAV upgrade solution. This uses a 10pin mini din connector that was used on the Sega Saturn console. As such, the mini din is ideal as it provides for composite, s-video, and the audio all in one place. This way any sega saturn cable sets that have composite, s-video, and audio can be used. Depending on the cable set used, it might not even require any case modification at all! But on the installs I do providing this as a service, I will be widening the RF opening slightly to allow for cable jackets to fit through better for a more full secure seat of the cable into the AV jack. Here is some detail on how that install method looks:
Here I'm using a (Repaired TBA UAV mount) in a low profile install. This install I remove the resistors that would normally be in place where the mount board is located. As the use of the MD10 requires removing the RF modulator, those resistors are no longer required anyway. This isn't needed but I like the way it looks and the mount board pretty much fits right into the original vias that the resistors were in making it way easy to solder into place.

Here is an overview of what the whole setup would look like with an MD10 in place.

Here is how the MD10 looks when soldered to the main board. It does require a very slight angle so that the MD10 sits flush against the back of the shell allowing the cable inserted to go straight in. Otherwise, it might not fit.

And here is what the setup looks like from the outside of the case. In this picture due to the angle of the shot, the md10 doesn't appear very centered. But it is.

Here is a detail of the MD10 av jack centered in the pic so you can see how it would actually be.

Here is a link for the gerber files for the breakout PCB you see in these pics for the MD10 jack. It is designed mainly for the 7800 or UAV installs in general as there are connection pads only for composite, s-video, and the audio. I did create two separate traces for the Left and Right audio for those that want to mess with 'stereo' audio setups. But I also included a jumper pad to put a solder blob on to get dual mono easily. When using the jumper, you only need to attach to one of the audio pads for audio output. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DzNX17Jef088r-ucAQ8NhD_FGaNMth3Q/view?usp=drive_link
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Bob DeCrescenzo (PacManPlus) did design a 3D printed replacement case shell for the 7800. However, I don't believe this shell has cutouts for the AV jacks so that is something that has to be done separately. Same with the power jack, in that with this 3D printed case, the power port sits too far back inside the shell. So you have to either desolder the plug and snap it into the case shell with additional wire soldered back to the main board or use a different power port/plug combo. Bob has stated that he does NOT want to see folks making these and selling them for profit. So he has released these under an honor policy that you only have them made up for your specific console use.
https://forums.atariage.com/topic/320563-i-present-to-you-the-7800jr-case/?do=findComment&comment=5275149
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I will add more information as needed or requested as it relates specifically to the Atari 7800 and UAV setups.
 
 
 

Let us know your review of that A/V output! 

Woohoo! Just received my GameDrive.

Just confirmed that the exact same thing happens in the A7800 emulator using the AB ROM version of the game. The OM version doesn't even load up in emulators. But yeah...ladders can't be climbed until the last two enemies at the end of that section are defeated first and just before moving over to the final enemy and Abobo boss for level 1. Also, I was using elbow punches and reverse jump kicks to take the enemies out quickly as possible and by the time I got to the Abobo, I was down to only 9 left on the timer?! So the timer is moving way too quickly as if you are trying to use normal attacks and the like, you aren't going to get through even level 1 without loosing a life due to the timer. Again, both the non working ladders and the fast timer happen on the 2600+ on the latest FW and also in the A7800 emulator.
 

That's an incredible find @RickR! It may have been short-lived, but in my area I remember them being on clearance along with the video cassette games at Kay-Bee Toys for a few years.

Who remembers the short-lived ActionMax?

My set is incomplete, and I've got it listed for sale locally for cheap. 

I'm currently the opposite of this - Just moved, no landline, no cable tv, no high speed internet, just running everything off of the hotspot on my phone including everything on my computer for work plus streaming to my TV. It's been flawless.

You could probably make video game music with that.

Well, I am thinking about starting here on the marketplace first.  I’ll go from there.

Cleaned and working. Memory card included. $50. Free shipping to United States territories.

Cleaned and working. $50 shipping included if buyer is within the U.S.  Comes with a third-party memory card (not pictured).

P.S. - I would think Atari Jaguar and Cybermorph fans would love the Cybertruck name. It was the first thing I thought of when I first saw the Cybertruck a few years ago. Not the DeLorean, not the Lotus, I thought of Cybermorph - and Skylar included as a KITT-like talking annoyance in the car.
 

 
I was also impressed that Tesla didn't continue trying to spell out "S-E-X-Y" in their model line. i.e. Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y - that's an intentional choice, and Model 3 was originally intended to be "Model E", however Ford owns that trademark and defended it.

DeLorean owner here, checking in. I have 25 years experience with Stainless Steel bodied car care. Let me tell you, it's a bundle of joy. Especially with people constantly wanting to touch your car. Improper care of the Stainless will cause problems. A few tips for Cybertruck owners:
"Rust spots" aren't actually rust. It's what builds on fingerprints, etc. I'm willing to bet that's what's happening with the Cybertrucks. I know zero about the Cybertruck as I'm not interested in it, but I'm willing to bet there's a no rust-thru warranty on the bodies. The DeLorean came with a 25-year warranty on the bodies, which were backed by the german company that supplied the stainless steel and long outlived DMC. Show me a DeLorean anywhere in the world with rust holes through it after 40+ years.
  Bar Keepers Friend and Soft Scrub are your best friends for properly cleaning stainless.
  Industrial Kitchen Cleaner spray, after a basic top-down wash with water and dry of the car, is my favorite and most reliable way to wash the car.
  Weiman Stainless Steel Wipes are a nice way to finish off the car after you've washed it of any dirt.
  Fingerprints are an issue after a while. Be prepared if you're in public and people touch the car. Stainless Steel Wipes are very helpful.
  Gasoline rubs out anything. The instruction manual suggests that if you get tar on the body of your car, use a paper towel lightly dipped in gasoline to rub out the tar, then thoroughly rinse with water, dry and properly dispose of the towel.
  Don't use Brillo Pads, use Scotch Brite Heavy Duty Scour Pads instead, and rub with the grain, not in circles. Brillo Pads will leave little shards of metal from the pad left between the grain in the Stainless. Those metal specs will rust, and give the appearance that the Stainless is rusting when it is not.
  Wax is definitely not the answer for a Stainless Steel bodied car, at least in the case of the DeLorean. I have to think that 40 years later, Tesla made it a priority to create a Stainless Steel body that could be treated and washed like a regular car - put through a car wash, waxed, etc. I'm not so sure that's the case. I'm willing to bet Stainless is Stainless and that means finger prints and "rust" spots and Soft Scrub and Bar Keepers Friend, I would hope that Tesla prepared their owners for this and created a "bulletproof" truck that is at least as resistant to fingerprints as my refrigerator is.
  I'm assuming Tesla offers a Stainless Steel car wash kit, with a grain pad, Stainless Steel cleaner and polish (see example below). That's probably the best bet for washing at home.  
I've been looking forward to standing back and watching the public react to naive Cybertruck owners. I've seen this story play out before. Obnoxious owners, combined with a press and others who don't understand / don't embrace something new and different, rev boys looking for attention, etc. And everyone in the parking lot thinking they know more about your car than you do and looking for something to point fault at, coming up to you and sharing their opinion and throwing the same disinformation at you day after day after day, and calmly offering a thoughtful response to them, as the ambassador to your car that you are. I bet electric car owners have very different yet strikingly similar stories. I knew going into this that Cybertruck owners would likely run into these common issues that arise from treating Stainless Steel like it's a painted car. We went through the same thing when we started seeing normies in falcon winged Tesla Model Xs driving around trying to show off with their doors up (awful idea and genuinely obnoxious) carelessly clipping the tips of their doors on the side of busses and garage doors, and twisting their car doors at the hinges mounted at the center of the roof. Yikes.

 
 
 

P.S. - I would think Atari Jaguar and Cybermorph fans would love the Cybertruck name. It was the first thing I thought of when I first saw the Cybertruck a few years ago. Not the DeLorean, not the Lotus, I thought of Cybermorph - and Skylar included as a KITT-like talking annoyance in the car.
 

 
I was also impressed that Tesla didn't continue trying to spell out "S-E-X-Y" in their model line. i.e. Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y - that's an intentional choice, and Model 3 was originally intended to be "Model E", however Ford owns that trademark and defended it.

DeLorean owner here, checking in. I have 25 years experience with Stainless Steel bodied car care. Let me tell you, it's a bundle of joy. Especially with people constantly wanting to touch your car. Improper care of the Stainless will cause problems. A few tips for Cybertruck owners:
"Rust spots" aren't actually rust. It's what builds on fingerprints, etc. I'm willing to bet that's what's happening with the Cybertrucks. I know zero about the Cybertruck as I'm not interested in it, but I'm willing to bet there's a no rust-thru warranty on the bodies. The DeLorean came with a 25-year warranty on the bodies, which were backed by the german company that supplied the stainless steel and long outlived DMC. Show me a DeLorean anywhere in the world with rust holes through it after 40+ years.
  Bar Keepers Friend and Soft Scrub are your best friends for properly cleaning stainless.
  Industrial Kitchen Cleaner spray, after a basic top-down wash with water and dry of the car, is my favorite and most reliable way to wash the car.
  Weiman Stainless Steel Wipes are a nice way to finish off the car after you've washed it of any dirt.
  Fingerprints are an issue after a while. Be prepared if you're in public and people touch the car. Stainless Steel Wipes are very helpful.
  Gasoline rubs out anything. The instruction manual suggests that if you get tar on the body of your car, use a paper towel lightly dipped in gasoline to rub out the tar, then thoroughly rinse with water, dry and properly dispose of the towel.
  Don't use Brillo Pads, use Scotch Brite Heavy Duty Scour Pads instead, and rub with the grain, not in circles. Brillo Pads will leave little shards of metal from the pad left between the grain in the Stainless. Those metal specs will rust, and give the appearance that the Stainless is rusting when it is not.
  Wax is definitely not the answer for a Stainless Steel bodied car, at least in the case of the DeLorean. I have to think that 40 years later, Tesla made it a priority to create a Stainless Steel body that could be treated and washed like a regular car - put through a car wash, waxed, etc. I'm not so sure that's the case. I'm willing to bet Stainless is Stainless and that means finger prints and "rust" spots and Soft Scrub and Bar Keepers Friend, I would hope that Tesla prepared their owners for this and created a "bulletproof" truck that is at least as resistant to fingerprints as my refrigerator is.
  I'm assuming Tesla offers a Stainless Steel car wash kit, with a grain pad, Stainless Steel cleaner and polish (see example below). That's probably the best bet for washing at home.  
I've been looking forward to standing back and watching the public react to naive Cybertruck owners. I've seen this story play out before. Obnoxious owners, combined with a press and others who don't understand / don't embrace something new and different, rev boys looking for attention, etc. And everyone in the parking lot thinking they know more about your car than you do and looking for something to point fault at, coming up to you and sharing their opinion and throwing the same disinformation at you day after day after day, and calmly offering a thoughtful response to them, as the ambassador to your car that you are. I bet electric car owners have very different yet strikingly similar stories. I knew going into this that Cybertruck owners would likely run into these common issues that arise from treating Stainless Steel like it's a painted car. We went through the same thing when we started seeing normies in falcon winged Tesla Model Xs driving around trying to show off with their doors up (awful idea and genuinely obnoxious) carelessly clipping the tips of their doors on the side of busses and garage doors, and twisting their car doors at the hinges mounted at the center of the roof. Yikes.

 
 
 

Not a game but …
 

DeLorean owner here, checking in. I have 25 years experience with Stainless Steel bodied car care. Let me tell you, it's a bundle of joy. Especially with people constantly wanting to touch your car. Improper care of the Stainless will cause problems. A few tips for Cybertruck owners:
"Rust spots" aren't actually rust. It's what builds on fingerprints, etc. I'm willing to bet that's what's happening with the Cybertrucks. I know zero about the Cybertruck as I'm not interested in it, but I'm willing to bet there's a no rust-thru warranty on the bodies. The DeLorean came with a 25-year warranty on the bodies, which were backed by the german company that supplied the stainless steel and long outlived DMC. Show me a DeLorean anywhere in the world with rust holes through it after 40+ years.
  Bar Keepers Friend and Soft Scrub are your best friends for properly cleaning stainless.
  Industrial Kitchen Cleaner spray, after a basic top-down wash with water and dry of the car, is my favorite and most reliable way to wash the car.
  Weiman Stainless Steel Wipes are a nice way to finish off the car after you've washed it of any dirt.
  Fingerprints are an issue after a while. Be prepared if you're in public and people touch the car. Stainless Steel Wipes are very helpful.
  Gasoline rubs out anything. The instruction manual suggests that if you get tar on the body of your car, use a paper towel lightly dipped in gasoline to rub out the tar, then thoroughly rinse with water, dry and properly dispose of the towel.
  Don't use Brillo Pads, use Scotch Brite Heavy Duty Scour Pads instead, and rub with the grain, not in circles. Brillo Pads will leave little shards of metal from the pad left between the grain in the Stainless. Those metal specs will rust, and give the appearance that the Stainless is rusting when it is not.
  Wax is definitely not the answer for a Stainless Steel bodied car, at least in the case of the DeLorean. I have to think that 40 years later, Tesla made it a priority to create a Stainless Steel body that could be treated and washed like a regular car - put through a car wash, waxed, etc. I'm not so sure that's the case. I'm willing to bet Stainless is Stainless and that means finger prints and "rust" spots and Soft Scrub and Bar Keepers Friend, I would hope that Tesla prepared their owners for this and created a "bulletproof" truck that is at least as resistant to fingerprints as my refrigerator is.
  I'm assuming Tesla offers a Stainless Steel car wash kit, with a grain pad, Stainless Steel cleaner and polish (see example below). That's probably the best bet for washing at home.  
I've been looking forward to standing back and watching the public react to naive Cybertruck owners. I've seen this story play out before. Obnoxious owners, combined with a press and others who don't understand / don't embrace something new and different, rev boys looking for attention, etc. And everyone in the parking lot thinking they know more about your car than you do and looking for something to point fault at, coming up to you and sharing their opinion and throwing the same disinformation at you day after day after day, and calmly offering a thoughtful response to them, as the ambassador to your car that you are. I bet electric car owners have very different yet strikingly similar stories. I knew going into this that Cybertruck owners would likely run into these common issues that arise from treating Stainless Steel like it's a painted car. We went through the same thing when we started seeing normies in falcon winged Tesla Model Xs driving around trying to show off with their doors up (awful idea and genuinely obnoxious) carelessly clipping the tips of their doors on the side of busses and garage doors, and twisting their car doors at the hinges mounted at the center of the roof. Yikes.