DegasElite

And here is more info about the model and how it went missing. 
 
 

While I can't quite afford either of those models, I did happen to get a NeoGeo CD for under $200 about a month ago. Now I have a controller and will need to get a PSU for it at some point. I know that Metal Slug and MS2 are available for the NeoGeo CD. Then again, I own the Saturn port of Metal Slug also. Such great games!
 

Looking good.  How long did it take to do the first part?
 

Very nice. 🙂

AES 🙂

Very cool.🙂 Which one did you go with the AES or the MVS?

This ST port convinced me to buy a Neo Geo and I love it 

Played it on my Mega STe a while back.
Blew me away! 😄 dml's Atari Game Tools do a great job along with your coding to make a great smooth experience I would have killed for on the ST back in the day. If only I had a three button pad to play it with. 😛
You guys are showing the Amiga fanboys our lovely ST is alive and kicking. ❤️
 

That is cool.  The games from the Vectrex Academy would be good ones to add as well.

Vectrex Homebrew Permission and Programs wanted for the NEW "Ultimate Vectrex Multicart" !

HELP!!!

Arcade Jason Kopp and Ralf Kornmann are working on a new multicart to replace the existing Super Vectrex Multicart (SVM) !

They are asking for your permission to permission to add your homebrew games and software to their new "Ultimate Vectrex Multicart" (UVM).

For version programs are preferred. But if you would like to create a version only for distribution on the Ultimate Vectrex Multicart they would be welcome too.

All types of home brew software is welcome. Games. Educational. Demos. Songs. Utilities. Diagnostic and Test.

I am sure the team of Jason and Ralf will once again over-deliver and under-price their new "Ultimate Vectrex Multicart" (UVM)!

Even if you have already given Jason and Ralf previous permission to include your Vectrex program into their current Super Vectrex Multicart, Jason would like to touch base with you again to renew the permission for the new "Ultimate Vectrex Multicart".

Please submit your Vectrex programs and permissions to Jason Kopp's email address: koppjason83@yahoo.com, with the subject "Vectrex Program Permission Grant for Ultimate Vectrex Multicart"

Gmail Message response: Here is email reponse link for use with Gmail
koppjason83@yahoo.com, Subject: Vectrex Program Permission Grant for Ultimate Vectrex Multicart


Alternatively, you can reach out to Jason Kopp via his
Facebook account @jason.kopp.923 (www.facebook.com/jason.kopp.923),
or
Respond in the Vectrex Fans Unite Post thread about this same same topic. (note group membership is required to post in this thread)  www.facebook.com/groups/104852679725118/?multi_permalinks=2210917792451919

Thank you in advance to any Vectrex Developer responding to this post. Even more appreciative if you allow your Vectrex program to be included into the new "Ultimate Vectrex Multicart".

Vectrexer
 
 

Maybe because 5200 cartridges never came with end labels, maybe because the system was not that popular.  But one of my next tasks is to comb the internet for a suitable display rack to modify in my slicer for my Atari 5200 cartridges, because as of now, I've been unable to locate a ready made display rack, and while I don't use many of my physical cartridges, I don't like shoving them all in a box.

I got the new PC-Mode USB from Atari for the VCS which uses the latest version of Debian. It is very snappy for the Office compatible applications (LibreOffice), web browsing, and YT (via browser). I also messed around with GIMP and it worked as well as it does on my PC.
I don't see it replacing my super fast Razer Windows laptop but if I didn't have that already the VCS with Linux could easily be used for productivity applications, emulation and light gaming.
I'd add that it's fairly easy to make a USB image of something like Debian or Ubuntu for use in the VCS. I picked up Atari's branded USB just to check it out.

Thank you everyone for the thoughtful input!
Excellent suggestions @RickR, THANK YOU! I've heard good things about LibreOffice. For me to start with Linux would be with daily personal computing, which to a degree could be limited usage. I would be using it as a second machine, so if I ran into a roadblock of something I was unable to do easily with Linux I would have an alternative.
Do you have recommendations for web browsing and e-mail on Linux?
 
That was one of my concerns, and was hopeful that the Linux community had developed easy solutions.
 
That would be my biggest question. I'm curious what you guys are using, and what is commonly used among Linux users for daily computing. It becomes both confusing and incredibly interesting when looking at what hardware to start with, because there are so many options and yet there's no "Linux Store" at the mall. I've seen Bitcoin miners running on classic DMG Game Boys somehow running Linux. I don't see how that's even possible or how that would work for me. The VCS is an option. I've also seen $99 Raspberry Pi keyboards running Linux and able to perform every function of basic personal computing - LibreOffice, web browsing, e-mail and more, all in a low priced "keyboard". It's like the modern equivalent of what an Atari 8-Bit or C64 served, as a low-cost alternative to an expensive IBM. I think of Chrombook as being in this same category as well.
I was thinking of taking an older machine - let's say a 5 year old desktop or laptop in good condition - servicing it and installing Linux on it. Not sold on the idea yet. I'm also not opposed to buying a brand new machine, but I should probably try Linx out first and see if I like it.
 
That's an excellent suggestion and I may go that route as I want to spend more time enjoying the VCS. I hope they keep the VCS around for a long time.
 
I prefer Unix-like systems, and primarily use macOS. I'm very happy with it and there's not a pressing need for me to switch, but I'm curious about Linux, and Linux has been rock solid over the years with the servers I've worked with.
 
What are the three Linux flavors if you don't mind me asking, and is there one you prefer? I'm looking at Kali. I'm also curious about Debian and Ubuntu. What are the pros and cons?
 
That all sounds fun! Part of my curiosity in in the "is this really better, faster, safer" aspect of it all, and "what can I do with it?"
 
My computing history was always ambidextrous, I grew up using both macOS and Windows, (and of course using both Atari 8-bit and Apple II in the early days). I’ve always appreciated the “home appliance“ closed design of systems like Atari and Mac, while simultaneously appreciating open architecture hardware design and open source software. I also like Unix-like systems. Lately I’ve been looking at adding Linux to my daily routine but I wouldn’t even know where to start. I’ve worked with Linux servers but I’ve never had a basic Linux PC on my desk for personal computing. I thought someone in the forums may have taken an old beat-up Dell laptop and repurposed it into a lightning fast Linux machine they could show off. It's a fun idea to play around with.

Here's what's interesting....once I tried Linux, I realized a lot of the same programs are available on Windows and Mac.  So even on my Windows machine, I use LibreOffice.  It's really good and FREE. 

As per your question, I always use Thunderbird for e-mail.  It's based on Mozilla code, so I use "Firefox" for web browsing.  However, if you want to cast to a TV or other device, install Chrome too.  Again, I use these same applications on Windows. 
You are on the right track.  If your device is common, there will be on-line guides and it will be no issue.  Do it once and then never worry again.
The "5 year old desktop or laptop" will be perfect and I would start with that route.  Some Linux distros have the ability to run off DVD so you can try it first without installing it.  It's slower because there is no hard drive, but this is a great way to determine if the old desktop is fully compatible.  I highly recommend trying this. 

I'd say the demarcation point you'll want to watch for in old hardware is the CPU...Core 2 duo is as old as you'll want to go, and that old technology will work fine but will limit which distro you will want to choose.  Once you get into the more modern Intel i3/i5/i7 and the newest multi-core AMD chips, you can run any distro you like. 
I've done that!  But it was probably @MaximumRD.  His posts about finding old hardware at the recycling bin and putting Linux on them are pure gold. 

I will add that I too use Linux on servers for coding at work.  Much easier to work with than Windows IMO for that purpose.  But things are different for desktop usage as look and feel are so important.  Nobody really wants something different and quirky in that regard.  Luckily, most of the most popular Linux distros are designed to look and behave like either Windows or MacOS. 
 

I appreciate the mention and vote here Rick and yes, I have dabbled with many Distros for years and even currently loving PopOS on my 2011 Macbook but, and this is why I didn't chime in earlier, I could not claim to know much beyond basics about using it for a daily driver of any sort. Meaning I don't really fit for the info Justin is inquiring about, I install a Distro on some old laptop or desktop hardware and because it is old or basic hardware it is with no intention of really using it for anything more than basic Web Browsing, no documents, spreadsheets or coding and honestly, though I used Thunderbird back in early days for my Email client I've not even dabbled with that since I gave in years ago and started using Web Based Emails in browser so even that I am rusty on, which is funny because back in the 2000's you could not force me to use Web Based ANYTHING let alone Emails. Pretty much Rick you have already given advice and contributed far better than I could, even things I am proud of doing like using Terminal to update a broken WiFi driver for the MacBook I tend to stumble through only after hours of frustration searching and researching until I find the answer and am successful after which I couldn't even give someone a clear instruction on how I managed it,  😆while I enjoy tinkering and can be stubborn to a fault until I am successful, my brain is always kind of in that moment and then it seems to just purge every step afterwards so I wouldn't even begin to know how to instruct someone else on my methods. Sorry I could not be of more help, I will keep an eye on the topic and contribute IF I think I can add something from this point on but I suspect you guys got it. 😎

I was doing some testing with Debian 11 (Bullseye) today running as a "virtual machine" on the VCS. Using a fast USB, the VCS ran it like a champ. It was very quick for basic productivity apps and I ran a few modern games off of it without issue. I was actually surprised to get that performance out of the USB boot drive.
It was also cool that it recognized my VCS Classic and Modern Controllers via BT. Those Controllers need to be wired for Windows/XBOX Mode.

I tried using Linux, or more specifically Raspbian, once. I know everyone likes it but I personally can’t stand it. It’s probably a me problem but it seems like none of the programs I like to use are compatible with it.

I've previously use Linux distros in the past but currently have a Raspberry Pi 4 using an Atari case from Micro Center.  My "VCS Pi" is set to run distros off flash drives being inspired by the PC Mode.  While I use a Windows 10 PC downstairs in my opened office room as a daily driver and gaming machine, the Pi is my "bedroom" computer if I need to work with privacy or just to mess around.  Here are favorites...
Raspbian: My main workhorse setup that I used for work-at-home situtations that don't require Windows.  I use both LibreOffice locally and Google Workspaces & Microsoft 365 on the Chromium browser.  Not ideal for watching videos but I have a Samsung tablet that acts a "second screen".  Plus I'm able to remote into my Windows PC with Easy VNC though a RDP setup is better (needs Windows Pro).
Ubuntu: That's my 'fun' OS that gives me the feel of using PC Mode on a VCS if I had one.  It's the only that runs Firefox on a Pi but the constant updates are slow...  other than that I like the different feel of using the Unity desktop compaired to the usual Windows one occasionally.
BeePi: This transforms my Pi into a real Atari computer that runs not only FreeMint through Aranym but also ST emulation by double clicking on a disk image from a multitasking GEM desktop.  It's not much of a daily driver but I'm still working on setting it up for basic stuff.
RetroPi: My future project, I plan on hooking the Pi up to a CRT television using the A/V cable and play my ROM collections with (hopefully) USB adapters to use real Atari & Sega controlers.

Yes, it's a AMD Ryzen mini PC that doubles as a game console...

GREAT write up and advice.  You are a true asset and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. 

I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method.
- The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models
- There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise
- Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles
- The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly
Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wiring from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch NTSC Atari consoles. 
UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:-
The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier.


Different revisions:-
The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles.
Power, Ground and Color resistor:-
The UAV requires power and ground to operate. The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the right leg of this resistor and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping it in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well.


NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:-
The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. 


Audio Connection:-
As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. 
UAV output wiring:-
The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack.


What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :-
The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting.
And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea. 

Buy an Atari VCS 🙂 
My advice would be to find a used tiny Dell desktop and use that.  I've seen them sell for about $40...small form factor, Intel series 4 i3/5, and DDR3. 
 

Yes...it does. though I've not used it specifically.
Once you open the app there is an additional menu that has an export option. From there you choose if you want to create a restore point. (Needed if you want to have the app on more than one device as it doesn't sync between devices). or export out as a spreadsheet.
That said, I've not seen an Import option so even if you have the spreadsheet they provide, It doesn't look like you can alter that and up it back to the app.
 

I use CLZ Games. I also use CLZ Movies for my DVD/Blu-Ray/4K collection. I bought them before they converted to subscription services, so I'm grandfathered in. Two biggest reasons why I use the apps are cross-platform availability (I access the app from phone, tablet, PC) and data export feature (CSV). The CLZ apps go on sale every year around Black Friday. I think that brings it down to $10 or $15 per year.
I dabbled with a spreadsheet before I moved to the app. I stopped because I already had a sizable collection and entering the games in the spreadsheet was a big pain. With the app, I can scan barcodes or search their cloud DB to facilitate.
I also dabbled with GameEye a few years ago. I decided against it because I could only access the data from my phone. It didn't have cloud sync back then for multi-platform use. Perhaps it does so now. However, if I didn't already purchase CLZ Games, I would probably go with GameEye since it's free and enjoys wide support (I think).

Adding @CrossBow